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Repairing vintage Gay Freres bracelet?

OllieOnTheRocks
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Hey guys,

Received a new watch today - woo!

Anyway it was fitted to a pretty sweet GF bracelet - problem is some links are massively stretched on one side.

Is this repairable - and does anyone know anyone who can work on them?

18023F37-8653-435D-B366-7488E2C6A700.jpeg


Thank you for you assistance

Ollie 😀
 
Dan S
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Is it an expandable bracelet? If so, you will need to fabricate new z-springs.
 
michael e
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Can I see more of the bracelet? The back, sides and measurements in mm?
 
OllieOnTheRocks
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3E4CEFF5-341B-420D-9CF4-1F9EC34E1AD1.jpeg B21046E8-947D-4AB3-B94D-98308F7B59F3.jpeg EAE7E38C-7994-4178-8946-2487BCC19E0C.jpeg 1C135609-B512-4A6F-9DEF-465F0D76E4C6.jpeg 7A96A30B-A105-478E-ADDB-21E1FA9F8616.jpeg
The lugs fit 18mm lugs. What other measurements would you require?

As you can see in these pics one side is not too bad. Whilst the other has really gone wonky.
 
Dan S
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Give him the dimensions of the links, especially the center part.
 
OllieOnTheRocks
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The links appear to be 15.5mm wide and 10mm tall. With a thickness of around 2.4mm. The central part is 8.8mm wide by 10mm tall.
 
Dan S
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C CLA05
Probably Rolliworks 👍

Since vintage Rolex bracelets are often selling for >$2k these days, it is worth having them restored, and I've had Michael repair several for me.

However, very few people would be willing to spend ~$500 to repair an unbranded expandable rivet bracelet like this, even if it's a nice high-quality GF bracelet. If the OP can find or fabricate the right springs, many hobbyists or watchmakers would be able to repair it.
 
C
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Dan S Dan S
Since vintage Rolex bracelets are often selling for >$2k these days, it is worth having them restored, and I've had Michael repair several for me.

However, very few people would be willing to spend ~$500 to repair an unbranded expandable rivet bracelet like this, even if it's a nice high-quality GF bracelet. If the OP can find or fabricate the right springs, many hobbyists or watchmakers would be able to repair it.
Really ya? Even a GF?
I didn’t know, thought it would be more valuable, thanks.
And yes Mr. Hui is the man 😀
 
Franco
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The shape of the elastic link is very similar to the early 7077 links, with the opening slot a bit more central than the later 7077 (where is near the edge).

I would not be surprised if inside there is the same z spring as in the 7077, which can be purchased on eBay.

s-l1600.jpg
Edited:
 
MRC
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Franco Franco
The shape of the elastic link is very similar to the early 7077 links, with the opening slot a bit more central than the later 7077 (where is near the edge).

I would not be surprised if inside there is the same z spring as in the 7077, which can be purchased on eBay.

s-l1600.jpg
if it is the same spring are the apparently identical apart from signing Rolex 6636 I can tell you the springs are W-shaped (or M-shaped in Australia). In the last stages of deterioration of mine before it went to Hong Kong they came out in several pieces.

bracelet.jpg
 
Dan S
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These problems are pretty common. Unfortunately, these center links are narrower than the Omega 7077 or Rolex 6636. It is possible to fabricate the springs from appropriate spring wire. There are some threads discussing it.

IMG_0480.jpeg IMG_0481.jpeg
 
michael e
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Dan S Dan S
These problems are pretty common. Unfortunately, these center links are narrower than the Omega 7077 or Rolex 6636. It is possible to fabricate the springs from appropriate spring wire. There are some threads discussing it.

IMG_0480.jpeg IMG_0481.jpeg

Which size springs do you need?
I have 7077 width springs and some which are narrower too.

Cheers, Michael
 
Dan S
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michael e michael e
Which size springs do you need?
I have 7077 width springs and some which are narrower too.

Cheers, Michael

Many thanks for checking, Michael. The center links in the Zodiac bracelet are 6mm wide and approx 11mm long. The full links width is about 15mm. I'm not really sure how far across the spring should go. I haven't taken one apart.

IMG_0709.jpeg IMG_0710.jpeg IMG_0711.jpeg IMG_0712.jpeg
Edited:
 
michael e
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Dan S Dan S
Many thanks for checking, Michael. The center links in the Zodiac bracelet are 6mm wide and approx 11mm long. The full links width is about 15mm. I'm not really sure how far across the spring should go. I haven't taken one apart.

IMG_0709.jpeg IMG_0710.jpeg IMG_0711.jpeg IMG_0712.jpeg

I should imagine the springs will go into the void either all the way up to the edges or up to the inner link edges like below.
Check my bad examples below.
What does the underside of the bracelet look like?
 
2F8A63F9-9C0F-4194-94FA-F72CCBFE3145.jpeg EC584F8E-C3A8-4453-8F2C-9A9DAED36F77.jpeg
Dan S
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I think you're right. I tried to peek inside one that I expanded and I could definitely see the compressed spring extending far beyond the center link, but I couldn't tell how far it went. I stuck a piece of paper in, and it went all the way to the outer edge, like your second picture. BTW, I just realized that the links taper, and the outer dimensions I gave are for the smallest link (12.0mm/15.3mm). The largest link was 15.0mm and 18.3mm including the outer edges.

IMG_0713.jpeg
 
Dan S
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I'm realizing that I don't know enough about how my bracelet is constructed to be intelligent about what size springs are needed. Probably I need to suck it up and disassemble a couple of links.

I had actually put this project away for a bit, since I have a friend who is going to service it and said he could fabricate some beryllium-copper springs when he gets back from a trip. He has done it before and says that he can make them well enough that the bracelet will be functional. Maybe I will let him take it apart and then I'll post some good photos showing the construction. At worst, it will be interesting information for the forum.
Edited:
 
JwRosenthal
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Dan S Dan S
I'm realizing that I don't know enough about how my bracelet is constructed to be intelligent about what size springs are needed. Probably I need to suck it up and disassemble a couple of links.

I had actually put this project away for a bit, since I have a friend who is going to service it and said he could fabricate some beryllium-copper springs when he gets back from a trip. He has done it before and says that he can make them well enough that the bracelet will be functional. Maybe I will let him take it apart and then I'll post some good photos showing the construction. At worst, it will be interesting information for the forum.
🍿
I got one too that’s kind of sad- but mine is the riveted one like the GF, yours has those pretty finished endcaps.
 
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