This is what Ben DeGeus wrote about the 18 jewel movements. (Purists, 2254 revisited)
Somewhere between 1993/95 in discussion with people from the museum in Bienne, I was surprised to learn that Omega was able already in 1941 to supply the 30mm movements (both the classic and SC version) with up to 18 jewels. Never heard off or, let alone, seen before anywhere!
Approx. 1½ years later an 18-jewelled Omega was available at auction in Germany. Could this be real or rather a misprint? Unfortunately the watch could not be opened for a quick check since the 'official' watchmaker was not present at the time. So I bought the watch on condition to be able to return it in case of a possible omission. Once in the car I curiously slid off the back and lo & behold: 18 jewels!
With the expectation that this had to be something special (very few pieces made), I showed it at the museum but their reaction was hardly luke-warm. "Yes, we' ve made these" they said, "but don' t over-estimate the technical importance, this little extra stone hardly improves the overall quality - the de Luxe Chronometer case (2254) however is very attractive". So, which customer would require this specification at an extra cost? It turned out that Ken Hatch Ltd. the Canadian agent in Quebec had ordered 500 pieces in 1941 (with follow-on orders a little later). Due to the difficult war conditions however, shipping took only place end '44 and early '45.
And now to the end-user, who were they? In my mind I could see a railway use (like Canadian Pacific). Through history these companies have always required top-quality watches and were willing to pay for that. Also the "anti magnetic" message on the dial should be minded. But the rather 'military'-look dial on these watches makes little civilian-user sense in that respect.
RCAF then? Military Commands have the habit of not spending any money at unneccessary frills - take a look at RAF, RAAF, RNZAF watches: no gilded plates, no Incabloc, only standard movements, nothing but the required accuracy and durability. So, 18 jewels? hardly imaginable, let alone a de Luxe casing. Admittedly, there are also 18 j. in standard cases around. But why are these not marked with an 'RCAF' number at the back (like the single-pusher 2221 models)? All government property should be clearly recognizable.
A few years back I happened to be in Montreal. Little time available, a few jewellers Omega watchshops were visited to ask some questions. Utterly hopeless, they even were not familiar with the 30mm movement...
===================
I find it very difficult to comprehense the technical nomenclature. With the 18j. movement on the table, it was pointed out to me in French but at the same time virtually impossible to grasp in my mother-language, let alone reproduce here in English. Maybe somebody in our circle could shine a laserpointer?
An observation: although higher numbers of 'stones' (rubis) could be ordered already from the moment of introduction (1941 for SC T2 version), estimated more than 99½% were delivered in standard 16 jewel lay-out. With this as reference, a potential client for 18j. was to gain not one but two extra stone-bearings. Although theoretically possible, SC versions with 17j. from this period are as yet unheard off -> if making extra costs better to go 'all the way' than 'half-hearted' most probably. Only with the appearance of caliber 280 in 1948 did the standard number go up from 16 to 17j.
Could it considered to be an 'overkill' to equip this movement with eighteen stones? - not easy to say. Fact is that even in the Rg-chronometer movements and later calibers up to and including the 286, Omega did never go beyond a number of 17 (motto: "enough is enough"?). And Marco Richon even doesn't mention the fact when showing illustrations of Anti Magnetic 30mm's in his books. Practical value or not - collectors will cherish these beautiful movements, with an added bonus because of their scarcity.
regards, Ben.
Click to expand...