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  1. LouS Mrs Nataf's Other Son Staff Member Jan 7, 2013

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  2. ulackfocus Jan 7, 2013

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    It might be original, it might be a very good redial. My question is what happened to the bezel?

    EDIT: okay, I see it in the listing in other shots.
     
  3. LouS Mrs Nataf's Other Son Staff Member Jan 7, 2013

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    It's there if you look at the listing - seller just removed it for this shot.
     
  4. X350 XJR Vintage Omega Aficionado Jan 7, 2013

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    I vote nice older refinish.

    The numeral one seems to be lifted with the appearance of glue seep from the back side where the figure was reattached. Also note the spacing between the second track and the applied daggers is off, 50 vs 20, etc.
     
  5. kyle L Grasshopper Staff Member Jan 7, 2013

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    Not liking the quality of the printing. Sometimes it looks like the numbers and marks are uneven or bled.
     
  6. Poloplayer Antimagnetic Member Jan 8, 2013

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    I agree with your vote but these are my 'newbie' thoughts based on the fact that things like spacings etc are not perfect.
    My next 'newbie' question though is to what extent do we expect originals to be perfect?
    Was quality control sufficiently good that anything less than perfect is probably a redial?

    Giles
     
  7. X350 XJR Vintage Omega Aficionado Jan 8, 2013

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    Perfect like today's watches, no, but certainly better than the example here.
     
  8. Poloplayer Antimagnetic Member Jan 8, 2013

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    Thanks. This is a great way to learn.

    Giles
     
  9. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 8, 2013

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    The word "perfect" connotes more of an opinion than a fact, at least in my opinion. :)

    While I've seen original Omega dials with factory flaws, they are very few and far between. Printing was almost always crisp and sharp. Redials might look perfect on a monitor in an eBay post, but that is not a guarantee of originality, despite what we may say here. Some of these modern redials are getting good enough that the only way to tell is up close, with a loupe. A printed redial is almost always going to be at least a bit fuzzy under high magnification.

    Another issue is that (at least with respect to dials), Omega may have used several different dial suppliers for the same model, so small details like "MOY", fonts and serifs on printing may have variations. There are hundreds of posts on this forum dealing with such variations.

    Hope this helps,
    gatorcpa
     
  10. Poloplayer Antimagnetic Member Jan 8, 2013

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    Always helpful - thanks.
     
  11. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 8, 2013

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    This is my watch, I bought this one for about $2,000 in rough shape, then spend about $800 servicing it, it should be shipping out to me this week. Its the same as the watch in the OP, 18K solid gold OT2872 Cal 320, and the dial on this one is original.

    Ashley Omega 001.JPG Ashley Omega 004.JPG Ashley Omega 005.JPG Ashley Omega 006.JPG Ashley Omega 007.JPG Ashley Omega 010.JPG Image68.jpg Image72.jpg Image75.jpg test234 005.JPG test234 013.JPG test234 014.JPG
     
  12. pknopp Jan 8, 2013

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    So, the top one should have a brushed dial like dsio's? Either way, I'm not a big chronograph fan but dsio's is certainly an exception.
     
  13. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 8, 2013

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    There are quite a few different dial options on the Ref OT2872, I've seen more variations than I've seen consistency, with at least 6 different styles that I know of.
     
  14. tomvox1 Jan 9, 2013

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    Hi Lou & gentlemen,
    First post here and I don't wish to overstep my bounds. But this bigger pic will be helpful for a better determination:

    [​IMG]

    I would say that there are enough asymmetries to indicate a possible redial but perhaps using an original Omega dial die on an original dial or blank. Would be pretty tough to do concentric Tachy/Minute Track rings on the fly. And also the engine turned subregisters are still quite crisp and the SWISS MADE looks like the correct font.

    But, as Lou pointed out, the calibrations within the Subregisters are a little small. Also, the applied markers at "2" and "10" are invading the subregisters, which is very un-factory. And might that dot towards the edge at "12" be a redialer's centering mark?

    Just my 2 cents & best to all,
    T.

    P.S. Nice to be here! :cool:
     
    dsio likes this.
  15. cicindela Steve @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 9, 2013

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    Welcome Tom, nice to have you here.
     
  16. MSNWatch Vintage Omega Aficionado Staff Member Jan 9, 2013

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    The print quality is excellent and the things that point me towards a redial are what looks like glue residue underneath some markers and the overlap of the 10 and 50 minute markers with the subdials. If indeed a redial it is one of the nicest ones I've seen recently
     
  17. ulackfocus Jan 9, 2013

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    The right side of the zeroes at the bottom left of the dial are flattened.
     
  18. tomvox1 Jan 9, 2013

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    Thank you kindly. Very cool forum you have here!
    Best,
    T.
     
  19. LouS Mrs Nataf's Other Son Staff Member Jan 9, 2013

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    Welcome Tom, and thanks for the analysis. I still have a nice 18K Longines UltraChron I got from you.
     
  20. tomvox1 Jan 9, 2013

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    Thanks, Lou, glad to cross paths with you again here. It was a pleasure meeting you in person & I'm glad you still have that sweet little Longines.
    I am still looking for the perfect early Zenith 3019...and watching the prices go up. ;)
    All the best to you,
    Tom