Recommendations for a watchmaker

Charly Jazz · Mar 29, 2021

I have this 1970's Omega Seamaster Deville model 1020 (that's all I know) that just stopped working after I sent it to a watchmaker for repair. He was unable to repair it because he does not have access to Omega parts, this is his diagnostic: Erratic rate in different positions, indicator driving wheel cam (#1562) is plastic - replaced by metal cam in newer models, day corrector spring (#7526) appears to be short to engage day corrector wheel (#7524) properly.

Can anyone recommend someone who can have access to Omega parts and is able to repair it? I'm located in South Carolina but can send anywhere. I would like to avoid sending it to Omega unless there's no other option.

Thank you

SkunkPrince · Mar 29, 2021

I use Nesbit's in Seattle.

https://www.nesbitswatchservice.com

Vitezi · Mar 29, 2021

Hello @Charly Jazz and welcome to the forum. Try this search to find an AWCI (American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute) professional near you specializing in vintage watches. You may also try the NAWCC (National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors) search page for "watch repair."

Charly Jazz · Mar 31, 2021

SkunkPrince
I use Nesbit's in Seattle.

https://www.nesbitswatchservice.com

So, I sent them the information I have for an estimate, they quoted me $800. Does that seem reasonable?
That's what I paid for the watch so I'm wondering if it makes sense to have it fixed (the wife is already saying "I told you so" 🙁), or maybe try to sell it as is or melt it for the gold.

Thanks for any advice

Dan S · Mar 31, 2021

Unfortunately, your wife has a point. 😉

Wlcutter · Mar 31, 2021

FWIW I'd say $800 is extremely high for a time-only service. I pay $250-300 for the service, plus whatever extra in parts. I'll second the AWCI listing route, though also: the best service I've found is just googling cities near me and watchmaker. In my experience, the majority are very good, and if you are clear about what you want, they'll do just that. YMMV.

SkunkPrince · Mar 31, 2021

Charly Jazz
So, I sent them the information I have for an estimate, they quoted me $800. Does that seem reasonable?
That's what I paid for the watch so I'm wondering if it makes sense to have it fixed (the wife is already saying "I told you so" 🙁), or maybe try to sell it as is or melt it for the gold.

Thanks for any advice

You said you wanted Omega parts. What they probably did because they don't have the watch in hand is quote you worst-case scenario.

I suspect that the parts you did specify are pretty expensive at this point. With all due respect to Mr WIcutter, not all service is created equal, and an indifferent cleaning and getting back a watch that won't keep time is not the same as getting back a watch you can depend on every day.

If you just don't want to deal with it, sell the watch as is. Don't melt the case, that just leaves an orphan movement in not very good conditinon you might as well throw away.

I can tell you that once you take care of the years of neglect, subsequent servicing after this time won't cost as much because half the movement won't be worn out.

Charly Jazz · Mar 31, 2021

SkunkPrince
You said you wanted Omega parts. What they probably did because they don't have the watch in hand is quote you worst-case scenario.

I suspect that the parts you did specify are pretty expensive at this point.

This is what they wrote:
the complete maintenance service being approximately $800.00. Our service will include the following;

Movement Service; disassembly, 5 stage cleaning, lubrication, adjustment, timing
Some interior parts if necessary
Replacement of all seals *will include new crystal, crown and gasket
Pressure test to factory specification
Refinish on the case and bracelet (you can opt out of this if you wish but the price of service is not affected)
36 month / 3 year warranty *based on parts availability per factory

gbesq · Mar 31, 2021

Nesbit’s has a reputation for being relatively expensive, but I agree with SkunkPrince that they do very good work.

SkunkPrince · Mar 31, 2021

And not far off from what my local guy charges for vintage... because make no mistake, there is a lot of work restoring vintage to factory specifications. It's a lot more than ultrasonic cleaning, oiling, and assembling.

Lurk41 · Mar 31, 2021

Based on €-$ conversion an Omega service would cost a bit less (~720$) assuming it is solid gold (it looks like a C6864 / C6865, so solid gold or gold-capped, the pic is too "frontal" to tell).

Not saying the price is not justified by the watchmaker. Just that if there are a lot of costly parts or time-consuming work, Omega would be cheaper as they do not charge for parts or time. But you won't build the same relationship with Omega and an independent watchmaker

Maybe you could ask your watchmaker if he is sure that are the only parts he needs and if he agrees to provide a quote without those 3 parts? and you source them for him? A quick ebay search gives around 20$ + 5$ + 20$ without shipping for those 3, NOS.

No idea about the gaskets, but I doubt it is a good idea to buy them NOS on ebay anyway... It would be a Seamaster without any water resistance, as most of vintages 😀

Wlcutter · Mar 31, 2021

I'm fine being in a minority here, but fwiw: my dad's a watchmaker; he retired last year, and his base price for a movement only service, before parts, was $250; he was CW21 certified, and his work was/remains impeccable. The best watchmaker I know in Indiana--Donovan Paradise, at Christiansen Jewelers, in Kendalville--charges maybe $300-350 for time-only, again with parts not included. Plenty of other good watchmakers I know of and have used—in Louisville, in Minneapolis, and in Ohio—all have similar ranges. All their work is excellent.

I have no experience with Nesbit's, and I'm sure they're great; I just think that's quite a premium. Front-loaders can be slightly more of a pain, but, once out, a cal 1020 isn't anything all that special, and a spring and driving wheel cam, even with Omega's recent price increases, don't merit $800.

SkunkPrince · Mar 31, 2021

As more of them older guys retire, the demand goes up, and with demand goes price. If you know of an older guy still working, by all means, keep him in business!

wagudc · Mar 31, 2021

It sounds like Nesbitt's is charging a flat rate. My watchmaker has an Omega parts account, but is independent. He has a base rate for a particular caliber. This includes basic parts like gaskets, seals, and a new mainspring. Other parts are extra, he gives you a quote after he looks at the watch and before he does any real work. I think a lot would need replacing to get the bill up to $800.

SkunkPrince · Mar 31, 2021

wagudc
It sounds like Nesbitt's is charging a flat rate. My watchmaker has an Omega parts account, but is independent. He has a base rate for a particular caliber. This includes basic parts like gaskets, seals, and a new mainspring. Other parts are extra, he gives you a quote after he looks at the watch and before he does any real work. I think a lot would need replacing to get the bill up to $800.

Remember this estimate is sight-unseen. Nesbit's gives you another after they've pulled the watch apart. They have my "new" De Ville Prestige with 1120 movement for service and I should have the real estimate in a couple of days.

wagudc · Mar 31, 2021

SkunkPrince
Remember this estimate is sight-unseen. Nesbit's gives you another after they've pulled the watch apart. They have my "new" De Ville Prestige with 1120 movement for service and I should have the real estimate in a couple of days.

Makes sense, this was not clear from the original post.

Charly Jazz · Apr 1, 2021

Dan S
Unfortunately, your wife has a point. 😉

wagudc
It sounds like Nesbitt's is charging a flat rate. My watchmaker has an Omega parts account, but is independent. He has a base rate for a particular caliber. This includes basic parts like gaskets, seals, and a new mainspring. Other parts are extra, he gives you a quote after he looks at the watch and before he does any real work. I think a lot would need replacing to get the bill up to $800.

Who's your watchmaker? I'm trying to get different estimates from watchmakers found on the internet, but most of them want me to send it before they can give me any number, I don't want to do that so trying to find a couple options that at least can give an estimate.

SkunkPrince · Apr 1, 2021

Charly Jazz
Who's your watchmaker? I'm trying to get different estimates from watchmakers found on the internet, but most of them want me to send it before they can give me any number, I don't want to do that so trying to find a couple options that at least can give an estimate.

This guarantees your estimate will only be a rough guess. Without inspection, no one knows.

Charly Jazz · Apr 1, 2021

Lurk41
Based on €-$ conversion an Omega service would cost a bit less (~720$) assuming it is solid gold (it looks like a C6864 / C6865, so solid gold or gold-capped, the pic is too "frontal" to tell).

It says it's 10 KGF, here's some more pics.

wagudc · Apr 1, 2021

Charly Jazz
Who's your watchmaker? I'm trying to get different estimates from watchmakers found on the internet, but most of them want me to send it before they can give me any number, I don't want to do that so trying to find a couple options that at least can give an estimate.

Kelly Hunter at Art of the Watch in Portland, OR. As @SkunkPrince says he can only guess without seeing it.

Recommendations for a watchmaker

Charly Jazz

SkunkPrince

Vitezi

Charly Jazz

Dan S

Wlcutter

SkunkPrince

Charly Jazz

gbesq

SkunkPrince

Lurk41

Wlcutter

SkunkPrince

wagudc

SkunkPrince

wagudc

Charly Jazz

SkunkPrince

Charly Jazz

wagudc

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