Hi all. Had a question about the correct lettering in a true original black/crosshair Seamaster Deville, particularly the shape of the "S". I heard like 99% of them are redials, but I've seen both versions of these online where the "S" has a crook in it (Picture A) and also where the "S" has a smooth shape to it (Picture B). Does anyone know which was the actual correct Omega factory lettering for the period?

Side note: Is it true that the crosshair on an original dial cut through the "m" in Seamaster? Thanks!

 

Well, I'm not really answering your question here, but I'd point out that the placement of Swiss Made is wrong on the top one, and on the bottom one it looks as if it has been relumed.FWIW, I do like the thickness of the crosshairs on the last one.

Often "tells" on figuring out whether a watch has been redialed or not doesn't consist of a single large inconsistency, but a number of minor issues.

 

The top one is a poor redial with an extremely clumsy "Seamaster" obvious a mile off to anyone used to old Seamaster dials. The dial on the bottom one looks ok to me but can't be sure from such a low-res photo.

 

It doesn't look like the cross hair coming down towards the 6 on the bottom one is properly centered either.

It could be that the baton is in the wrong place - it looks closer to minute marker 31 than 29 - to my eye anyway.

That could just be the angle of the photo though, I guess.

 

Wow thanks for all the insights guys! Here are all the photos that came with the listing. The seller appears to be reputable and has a very high positive feedback. He told me that the watch is not a redial. He also has a 14 day return policy, if that means anything.

Any additional insights as to the authenticity would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Oh wow thanks for the insight. Just curious, what about it in particular makes it seem like a redial? Is it because the dial looks too clean?

 

And all the hands are generic replacements.

 

Thanks guys! Wow, he was asking $2,000 for it, claiming it was not a redial. I really appreciate all your input.

I really love the style of the watch. I think I'm better off purchasing a redial at a lower price.

 

$2k!?

From a 'reputable' online seller?

 

Yea lol, his eBay reviews seemed legit. Idk this is my first time buying a vintage watch and I figured the price was high considering how rare a factory original black/crosshair is.

 

A is a bad redial. B is a half decent redial.

..... and two thousand dollars if fking OUTRAGEOUS for a SMDV even if it IS original in all aspects. Some sellers get a little crazy with their Don Draper illusions.

 

Not a cross-hair but this is an original black dial.

Silver gilt, NOT printed over the black as on redials.

 

I know you already decided not to buy this, but just wanted to answer your questions regarding the crosshair. Im new to this my self but have done a fair amount of research on it now.

On the SMDV the vertical line should go straight trough the Omega logo, straight through the first peak in the `M` in `Automatic` And then straight through the last line in the `m` in Seamaster. And of course align perfect line with the top and bottom lumens. See this thread for comparison

https://omegaforums.net/threads/please-help-id-this-vintage-seamaster.48223/#post-577804

Also, on the `S` in seamaster should be less rounded on the crosshair versions as you can see in the link above. At least this is true for the pre 1963 SMDVs, but not sure if it holds true after that time, when Omega started printing Deville on the dial.

Hope you find a nice specimen