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RE: Advice on SM300 Co-axial

  1. lecorbusier Jul 22, 2015

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    Hello everyone. I am Jeff and this is my first post in this forum. This forum struck me--when compared to a few other forums centered on the watch hobby (!)--as extremely cordial and supportive. I don't own an Omega--yet--but recently and perhaps because of too much online surfing, I have been struck by the ephemeral beauty of vintage seamasters (and even speedmasters) on vintage leather straps. There is something robust, and quite beyond words, about these watches.

    I did some research and came to the newly release SM300 co-axial either in SS or Ti. However, a visit to the boutique reveals that the watch in bracelet form is too clunky for my wrist and so I requested to be informed when the version with the leather strap arrives. As I am new to this brand, I hope the forum participants here can enlighten me on a few questions:

    1. I am stunned by the high price of Omegas, and especially the price difference between the PO and the SM300 Co-axial. While I understand that like many high-street brands, Omega has also gone into the deep end of marketing, I still don't quite understand the high price point for a SS diver. In your opinion, what are the merits of the SM300 Co-axial and in tandem, should I source for this watch in the used market, rather than to purchase new? (I predict the price is likely to be lower after a few years).

    2. Is changing the strap to bracelet, or vice versa, a simple task--for example, like the Nomos Metro where there is a mechanism to switch out/release the strap from the lug? Based on my research, it appears that this is not a task that could be handled easily even by an AD rep. On this, I have weighed the economics between a bracelet and a strap for the SM300 Co-Axial. It is debatable if a strap is a better value--but at least I don't have to hassle with switching straps; but it is highly doubtful to pay the premium for the Ti with strap especially when the Ti bracelet is the main reason for the premium.

    3. In your opinion, is it likely (or more accurately, in the history of Omega) that the Co-Axial case would become slimmer in thickness in the coming years? I noticed that the watch does sit quite high on my wrist, and there are advantages in thinner watches especially when used for desk-diving! If there has been precedence in the horology of Omega to come up with thinner but not less robust movement, I think I should wait for a thinner SM300 in due course.

    Thank you--this is a rather lengthy post. I look forward to visiting and participating in this forum.
     
  2. Togri v. 2.0 Wow! Custom title... cool Jul 22, 2015

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    Welcome! This is not to be rude in any shape or form, but I encourage you to do a little research as a start. Read through some of the many posts here, where people are asking about new vs. used purchases or discussing the merits of Omega. I am certain that your questions has been answered in the previous threads here. Likewise try googling strap change, bracelet change etc. or watch a youtube video. Perhaps by that you can judge, if it is something you will be able to accomplish. Also don't expect seamasters to become much slimmer, they are dive watches.

    You could always wait 10 years and see if a thinner Seamaster has come on the marked.
     
  3. Taddyangle Convicted Invicta Wearer Jul 22, 2015

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    What is list price for ss coax sm300? I have seen them sell between $4,000-4,500 used. I even had an offer to buy one at $3950, but I declined. At that point I was holding out for the ti. Have not yet purchased one.
     
  4. zrleopold Jul 22, 2015

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    Generally you should buy it with the bracelet. The bracelet is much more expensive to buy later. You could always pick up a 3rd party leather strap for a fraction of the cost. Changing the strap/bracelet isn't too difficult.
     
  5. Nobel Prize Spell Master! Jul 22, 2015

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    Welcome!! Here's some feedback for you

    1- buying new or used:

    There are degrees in between but if money is an issue you can seek a used model on good condition. There are a couple for sale in this forum which has very reputable sellers, me included. You can also source a new " grey market" many great market dealers like authentic watches, jomashop etc are reputable. In general a grey market will run 25% or less from retail and used is always up to negotiation.

    2- bracelet switch ; absolutely 100% without question buy the piece with the stainless steel bracelet and then buy a nice leather band from Omega or elsewhere. The value of the purchase with the steel bracelet versus the leather is negligible at purchase, but if you then want to buy the steel separately that will cost you 700 to 1000 dollars.

    3- changing the strap: It's not as easy as a quick release strap change but you don't need a degree for it. You should get a spring bar tool which are easy and affordable. I switch straps and bracelets every other day, I suppose I'm used to it by now. But you can also ask any watch repair shop of any brand, or even the little old man that has a shoe shop and changes batteries and they can switch it for you in a second.

    Movement- maybe they will come up with a thinner one, maybe they won't. They have thinner movements already but the question is wether a deep sea diver needs to have a certain thickness in profile anyway to withstand pressure and serve as a good and sturdy tool within the environment... Most people wear divers and don't go much further into the wild than watching the National Geographic channel or maybe reruns of the love boat, but they still have to make the watches to a certain specification. I do find the new PO lines walk a thin line on the too thick case conversation, but the SMP is not that crazy and it houses the 2500 Cal movement which is the current thinner profile Omega Diver Caliber.

    Last- go to the private watch sales, look for my listing and buy it!!!
     
  6. Nobel Prize Spell Master! Jul 22, 2015

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    We should clarify. there is a difference between the SMP 300 coaxial and the SMP 300 master coaxial. I have a feeling there may be a little confusion. I understand the thread to be about the SMP300c (coaxial movement) with the polygon bezel.

    In any event all my responses apply either way, except the sales part, as I am not selling a master coaxial.