Rare 1940s Omega 30mm Tropical Cream Dial - Seeking Identification & Thoughts from Expert

JD77 · Jan 21, 2026

Dear OmegaForums community,

I hope this finds you well. I recently acquired this vintage Omega dress watch and would greatly appreciate your expert eyes and knowledge to help identify it more precisely.

Key details:

Case: Stainless steel, exactly 30 mm (without crown), straight lugs, original signed crown.
Dial: Original cream/silver with beautiful, even tropical patina (natural uniform aging - no heavy spotting or damage). Selective Arabic numerals (positions 12, 10, 8, 2, 4), small seconds at 6 o'clock.
Movement: Manual winding calibre 30T2 SC (small seconds), fully original. Recently fully serviced by a specialized vintage watchmaker: full maintenance, one main part replaced with genuine Omega part, exterior cleaned preserving the tropical patina. Runs perfectly with good amplitude and accuracy. Certificate from the watchmaker included.
Condition: Excellent for its age - fully authentic, no redial, no refinishing, no major scratches or over-polishing. High-quality leather strap recently fitted. The attached image shows the watch prior to the professional restoration, full service, and cleaning by a specialized vintage watchmaker.
Year: Circa 1940–1945 (post-war early production).

From my own research it appears to be a CK 2181 or very close variant in the CK 21xx series (small 30 mm case, selective Arabic dial layout), but I would love confirmation from those more experienced with these early 30T2 watches.

Questions:

Can anyone confirm the exact reference or narrow it down further (perhaps based on serial/caseback markings)?
How rare would you consider this configuration (30 mm steel case + cream tropical dial + selective Arabic layout)?
Any known production numbers or catalogue references for this size/dial variant?

I'm based in Spain and happy to provide additional close-up photos or details upon request.

Many thanks in advance for your time and expertise - this community is always incredibly helpful.

Best regards,Juan

OllieOnTheRocks · Jan 21, 2026

Firstly the image is not great, please try to take photos during the day is a brightly lit area, perhaps on a window sill. This will make our assessments more reliable, as it will make the process as close as possible to having the watch in our own hands.

Now, on first inspection, it looks to be all original, with an original dial in good condition, and original hands. The crystal might be a bit foggy or scratched which can be replaced and greatly improve the look of the watch.

If the case measures exactly 30mm as you suggest the movement is not a 30T2 as this is physically impossible, the case has to be at least a couple of mms larger than the movement otherwise how will it hold it? If you can remove the caseback and provide a photo we can assess the movement. It could be a 26,5 or maybe even one of the rectangular shaped movements. The year can be more accurately determined when we see the movement serial number.

This is not a CK2181 and in fact it's nothing like it so I'm not sure why you've come to this conclusion. Just look at the lugs they are completely different. I recognise this case but we need to confirm what information you have provided is correct and what isn't before proceeding, either by remeasuring the case, or removing the caseback. A snap back case can be removed with a knife, a screw back case will need to be twisted off.

In terms of rarity, a watch from this era in good condition is rare in of itself, and make them certainly more rare than say a 1960s seamaster by the order of magnitudes. This does not necessarily translate to a more valuable watch though, as people 'know' seamasters, as a name immediately makes a product more saleable.

I look forward to learning more about the watch, it's a nice example.

JD77 · Jan 21, 2026

Thank you very much for your detailed and spot-on feedback - I really appreciate the time you took to analyze the photo and provide such clear and knowledgeable insights. Your observations make complete sense, especially regarding the case size vs. movement diameter, the differences with the CK2181 (I clearly misidentified the reference - sorry about that!), and the importance of better lighting for photos.

You're absolutely right about the need for clearer images and, most importantly, a view of the movement. I'll follow your advice: I'll take new photos in natural daylight (on a windowsill as you suggested) and carefully remove the caseback to photograph the movement and any visible serial/number. I'll also double-check the exact case measurements with a proper caliper for accuracy.

Once I have those additional details and better pictures, I'll post them here so we can continue narrowing it down. I'm really looking forward to learning more about this piece - it already feels special, and your comments have made me even more curious about its true identity and history.

Thanks again for your expertise and patience. I'll update the thread as soon as I have everything ready.

Best regards,Juan

JD77 · Jan 22, 2026

OllieOnTheRocks
Firstly the image is not great, please try to take photos during the day is a brightly lit area, perhaps on a window sill. This will make our assessments more reliable, as it will make the process as close as possible to having the watch in our own hands.

Now, on first inspection, it looks to be all original, with an original dial in good condition, and original hands. The crystal might be a bit foggy or scratched which can be replaced and greatly improve the look of the watch.

If the case measures exactly 30mm as you suggest the movement is not a 30T2 as this is physically impossible, the case has to be at least a couple of mms larger than the movement otherwise how will it hold it? If you can remove the caseback and provide a photo we can assess the movement. It could be a 26,5 or maybe even one of the rectangular shaped movements. The year can be more accurately determined when we see the movement serial number.

This is not a CK2181 and in fact it's nothing like it so I'm not sure why you've come to this conclusion. Just look at the lugs they are completely different. I recognise this case but we need to confirm what information you have provided is correct and what isn't before proceeding, either by remeasuring the case, or removing the caseback. A snap back case can be removed with a knife, a screw back case will need to be twisted off.

In terms of rarity, a watch from this era in good condition is rare in of itself, and make them certainly more rare than say a 1960s seamaster by the order of magnitudes. This does not necessarily translate to a more valuable watch though, as people 'know' seamasters, as a name immediately makes a product more saleable.

I look forward to learning more about the watch, it's a nice example.

Hi, OllieOnTheRocks,

As requested, here are more details and additional photos (all taken after the recent full service by a specialized vintage watchmaker):

Case reference (engraved inside the case back): 9789785
Serial number (also inside the case back): 10230511
Marking on the movement (bridge/plate): R178
Dimensions:
- Diameter: exactly 30 mm (measured without crown)
- Thickness: 5 mm (including the domed crystal)
Other notes: The watch has been fully serviced (complete overhaul, one main part replaced with genuine Omega spare, exterior cleaned while fully preserving the original tropical patina). It now runs perfectly with excellent amplitude and accuracy. A high-quality brown leather strap was fitted.

Attached are several new photos showing the watch post-restoration and in running condition: front dial views, side profile, case back with engravings, and a couple of close-ups of the movement markings and tropical dial.

Many thanks again for your help - I’m really looking forward to your thoughts!

Best regards,
Juan

OllieOnTheRocks · Jan 22, 2026

Thank you for your details - the serial that we generally refer to is the one found on the movement. Are you able to provide us this?

As suspected the movement is not a 30 calibre, you note it is a R17.8 which is one of the rectangular shaped movements I was referring to. If you search this forum you will find an interesting thread where people have posted their omegas with this movement. It serves as a nice reference for the references available at the time. It’s quite enjoyable too seeing what else is out in the wild so to speak.

This now all makes sense , however I would
Note that now that we can see the watch more clearly there is an issue with the hands - I suspect the one on the right is the minute hand, but as they are practically the same length it’s hard to tell - the minute hand should extend to the minute track. So at least one of these has been replaced or more likely by the looks of it broken, as the one on the right does not appear to be symmetrical in shape.

Armed with the correct movement calibre (R17.8), case diameter (30mm) and the reference image showing the shape of the case you may be able to do a little digging to find the case reference online or on this forum. It is a fairly common case that I have seen on numerous occasions so you will likely find other examples for reference.

Do not be concerned if the dials are different as unlike modern watches Omega made tens of different designs.

Best wishes,

Oliver

JD77 · Jan 22, 2026

OllieOnTheRocks
Thank you for your details - the serial that we generally refer to is the one found on the movement. Are you able to provide us this?

As suspected the movement is not a 30 calibre, you note it is a R17.8 which is one of the rectangular shaped movements I was referring to. If you search this forum you will find an interesting thread where people have posted their omegas with this movement. It serves as a nice reference for the references available at the time. It’s quite enjoyable too seeing what else is out in the wild so to speak.

This now all makes sense , however I would
Note that now that we can see the watch more clearly there is an issue with the hands - I suspect the one on the right is the minute hand, but as they are practically the same length it’s hard to tell - the minute hand should extend to the minute track. So at least one of these has been replaced or more likely by the looks of it broken, as the one on the right does not appear to be symmetrical in shape.

Armed with the correct movement calibre (R17.8), case diameter (30mm) and the reference image showing the shape of the case you may be able to do a little digging to find the case reference online or on this forum. It is a fairly common case that I have seen on numerous occasions so you will likely find other examples for reference.

Do not be concerned if the dials are different as unlike modern watches Omega made tens of different designs.

Best wishes,

Oliver

Hi Oliver,

Thank you so much for your time and for the detailed, helpful information - it's greatly appreciated.

I understand about the movement serial - I haven't opened the case yet to check it, but I'll do so soon and update with the exact number.

Thanks also for spotting the hands issue - you're right, the asymmetry and length look off. I'll keep that in mind.

Your confirmation of the R17.8 calibre makes everything much clearer now. I'll definitely search the forum for that R17.8 thread - sounds like a great reference!

Many thanks again for your expertise!

Best regards,
Juan

Dan S · Jan 22, 2026

This AI crap is so tiresome. [Edit: Longer rant deleted. 😀]

JD77 · Jan 22, 2026

Dan S
This AI crap is so tiresome. [Edit: Longer rant deleted. 😀]

Estimado Dan S o como te llames,

Tienes toda la razón en que el inglés no es mi idioma nativo, soy de España.

Por eso he usado un traductor para responder en ese idioma: es el más internacional y el más usado en este foro, y quería que la conversación fuera lo más clara y accesible posible para todos.

Las fotos del reloj son 100 % reales y originales. La primera es anterior a llevarlo al taller (era la única que tenía en ese momento), y las siguientes son de hoy, después de recogerlo ya restaurado y reparado por un relojero especializado.

Toda la información que he compartido es real y verídica. Si no fuera así, no tendría ningún sentido abrir un hilo aquí ni hacer perder el tiempo a nadie, ni el mío ni el de los demás.

Sé perfectamente que @OllieOnTheRocks es una persona real, y precisamente por eso le he respondido de la forma más educada y agradecida posible: no solo por el tiempo que me ha dedicado, sino sobre todo por la información útil y precisa que me ha facilitado.

Se lo agradezco de corazón.

En cuanto a tu comentario, no sé si eres una persona o una IA, pero lo que sí sé es que no has aportado nada constructivo a la consulta, solo has venido a criticar el tono y a cuestionar sin fundamento.

Si no tienes intención de ayudar o aportar algo relacionado con el reloj, lo más honesto sería simplemente no participar y mucho menos con un tono altivo y maleducado.

Un saludo.

Dan S · Jan 22, 2026

Not sure what that was about, but I assume you got what you came here to get and will now be moving on. If you truly appreciate the expertise that @OllieOnTheRocks shared with you, you can show your gratitude by supporting the forum. But I'm not holding my breath.

Screenshot 2026-01-22 at 7.55.21 AM.webp

JD77 · Jan 22, 2026

Dan S
Not sure what that was about, but I assume you got what you came here to get and will now be moving on. If you truly appreciate the expertise that @OllieOnTheRocks shared with you, you can show your gratitude by supporting the forum. But I'm not holding my breath.

Es así como se trata en el foro a los nuevos miembros? Eres el propietario y juez del foro? Estás tu ayudando al foro molestando a los demás sin motivo? Qué lección debo aprender de ti?

No me gustan las confrontaciones sin sentido, no he pretendido ofender ni buscar problemas, unicamente me gusta el mundo de los relojes y por eso estoy aqui, aprendiendo.

Dan S · Jan 22, 2026

Oh come on, here we go with the whining. First it's a 30T2, then it's a R17.8, then you haven't opened the watch ... it's obvious that you're just yanking our chain with your AI BS. Sorry, but it's offensive.

When a new member joins and actually shows interest in engaging with the forum like a real human being, nobody will spend more time helping them than me. It's clear that you are just a fly-by. Adios.

JD77 · Jan 22, 2026

Dan S
Oh come on, here we go with the whining. First it's a 30T2, then it's a R17.8, then you haven't opened the watch ... it's obvious that you're just yanking our chain with your AI BS. Sorry, but it's offensive.

When a new member joins and actually shows interest in engaging with the forum like a real human being, nobody will spend more time helping them than me. It's clear that you are just a fly-by. Adios.

No entiendo tu frustración ni tu acoso.

No es lloriqueo, es explicar con hechos y respeto. Al principio pensé que era un 30T2 porque no tenía aún los datos reales que me dio el relojero después de abrirlo y revisarlo. No soy experto y preferí no estropearlo abriéndolo yo mismo.

Cuando lo recogí del relojero esta mañana éste me facilitó los nuevos datos (referencia, calibre, etc) que había encontrado al abrirlo.

Todo es real, las fotos también, y si no te convence, no pasa nada, pero si vas a venir solo a atacar en vez de ayudar, mejor no participes.

Los nuevos que llegamos con buena fe no merecemos acoso ni lecciones de nadie.

To make it clear and so you don't get stressed, I'll leave it in your language:

I don't understand your frustration or your harassment.

It's not whining, it's explaining things with facts and respect. At first I thought it was a 30T2 because I didn't yet have the real data that the watchmaker gave me after opening and checking it. I'm not an expert and I preferred not to risk damaging it by opening it myself.

When I picked it up from the watchmaker this morning, he provided the new data (reference, calibre, etc.) that he had found when he opened it.

Everything is real, the photos too, and if you don't believe it, that's fine, but if you're only going to come here to attack instead of help, it's better if you don't participate.

Those of us who arrive as newcomers in good faith don't deserve harassment or lectures from anyone.