I saw this eye catching piece for sale and listed in NOS condition (despite the clearly worn “original” strap )




I have one specific question for the Polerouter experts here; are lumed hands and a non-lumed dial a recognised and accepted variant of 204610-3? @CafeRacer ‘s site shows this reference with no lume anywhere (and Microtor printed on the dial too). I know the Polerouter reference gallery website is not intended as the bible but this dial just doesn’t feel quite right to me.

 

As a general rule, you don't find lumed hands with a non-lumed dial or vice-versa on a Polerouter.

There do seem to be a very small number of exceptions to this (e.g. 169115/01) but I don't believe that the 204610 is one of them and this watch is therefore unlikely to be entirely original in my opinion.

Perhaps just a 204610/3 with replaced hands? Unfortunately we can't see the case reference because it is underneath the case back sticker.

The missing Microtor text is correct as you would typically only find that on a watch with a Cal 215 movement whereas this has a Cal 218.

I presume that the logo on the dial is silver in colour as it should be with this steel case? It's hard to tell from the photos.

 

Very cool yet unusual piece in my opinion.

Evaluating the watch overall, it has the correct UG signed plexi with date window, correct small /thin domed crown for a 204610 (also shared with a 20368), period correct buckle and strap. The dial is also Swiss only - an uncommon dial feature that is distinct to most 204610 sub-references. So all looks very good so far.

The lumed hands with a non-lumed dial is the only unusual feature I can see - the mystery can be solved by looking at the Model Reference Number underneath that sticker... but therein lies the dilemma
Id ask for higher resolution photos to begin.

Regarding the "microtor automatic" vs "automatic" only on the dial - that is related to a production change and is reflected in the Serial Number.
https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/photo-galleries/referencegallery/
In the 204610 section, there are both "early serial" and "late serial" photos posted - late with automatic only, and early with automatic microtor on the dials. So, this one I assume is a late serial - which again can be confirmed by removing that sticker

Hope this helps.

 

The dial does indeed have a silver coloured applied ‘U’ logo looking at additional photographs. The full reference is 204610-3 according to the seller. The serial number will remain a mystery until someone is brave enough to peak beneath the sticker (the seller is rightly unprepared to do so).

Thank you both for your detailed and thoughtful responses. Engrossing stuff as always.

 

Presumably the seller identified the reference just by comparing the dial with other examples or with the example on the polerouter reference site?

 

I think so. Closeups of the case back seem to show that the 'Limited Edition' sticker is pretty much welded on so I'd wager that the full reference number has been assigned by the seller on a best efforts basis.

 

He can at least narrow down the serial range by measuring the lug width...

 

Am I the only one to have a mixed feeling about the dial? The grainy texture looks normal to you guys?
The ink seems also a bit thick, the color of the dial (white/creamy) is also weird.

or most probably a special model (as stated on the sticker: limited edition) that I have never seen before.

 

Yes, I had the same first impression, and the combination of lumed hands with non-lumed dial, as noted by others, strikes me as odd as well. But with the sticker on the back, this does not look like a watch that has been tampered with. Just really strange, and I do not like it much for these reasons, even if it is all original.

 

How hard would it be to print up a sticker? Might seem cynical but what makes that model a "limited edition"?

 

The stickers are legitimate - they even feature in some vintage advertisements.
In fact, its the only UG sticker I can recall seeing attached to a Polerouter.
However, I'm not yet sure if specific watches were "limited edition", or it was some kind of marketing to call every watch a limited edition (were they just 65 years ahead of Omega??? )

 

Wow! Nice research!