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Maximus84
路Some of you may be aware of the thread I created a while ago, looking for suggestions for a GMT watch. The Rolex (polar) Explorer II, 16570 reference was always a front runner, but I didn't want to be 'snow-blind' to it, and diligently looked for credible alternatives.
Well, I received a great response, with lots of thoughtful suggestions, but the Exp.II Kept coming back. A few months back (when I started really looking) I got the chance to properly handle one in an AD in the U.K. (Pre-owned). All the pictures I had seen (there were a lot!) came to life. It was the Omega Great White that took me down the path of white-dialled GMT watches, and remained a close second throughout, but there was something special about the Rolex. I did, incidentally, recently get the chance to see the black and white versions side by side. No contest for me. White.
So, I trawled Watchrecon, various online dealers, a couple of shops and eventually found one that seemed to fit.
The Watch
It's an early Z serial, making it 2006 but with the 3185 (and no Rehaut engraving). I'd seen a few later ones but they seemed to be commanding a premium I didn't think was worth it. It has SEL and the non-lugholes case, both features I wanted. The watch itself has recently had a full service by a Rolex-trained 3rd party watchmaker. For a ten year old watch, it arrived in immaculate condition. The case and bracelet sides are perfectly mirror like, the lugs and case are sharp and look brand new. The bezel is virtually flawless, so is the bracelet. It's running at about +1spd. Very impressed. It does not look like a ten year old watch. This is good as it has had a very competent refurbishment, but of course I don't know the full history or what it looked like before. It can't have been in too bad a condition as like I say, it looks great, and all surfaces, chamfers, edges etc are sharp.
Also, it means any marks/scratches I put on it are mine. This is good and bad. If it had been a little bit beat, I'd cope with any extra. As it arrived in pristine condition, the pain of the first scratches is quite prominent. I've already scratched the case side and caseback and it's incredibly annoying!
Dial
What really drew me in. Icy white with those glossy black white gold painted markers, it offers great contrast and is very different. The red GMT hand is a great contrast, although the red paint doesn't extend all the way to the base of the arrow.
I find it very legible so far, even in low light conditions. The Luke isn't great, but so far I have found it adequate, and quite long-lasting. It's crisp, different, and wears well, although different to how I imagined (difficult to explain).
I'm not a particular fan of the cyclops, but it's fine, and the date feature is useful (something my Speedy Pro doesn't have!).
Bezel
Another strong point. The lettering is sharp, with no black enamel missing. I like the font and the spacing is perfect. A lot has been said about the 'sunburst' brushing and it catches the light brilliantly. Keeping track of 'Zulu' time is going to be easy (handy!)
Case
Perfect size for me at 39mm (+3 for the crown and guards). I have small wrist at about 6.5in and it fits well. The shape is classic and the difference between polish and brushing is stark. I kinda wish the case sides were brushed as well, however, as in the week I've had it I've already put some scratches on the sides. I don't take scratches on watches very well. A neuroticism I'm slowly learning to live with. The caseback is plain with the standard brush finish in the middle. Boring compared to many other Watch brands but it's functional. I have somehow put small marks on the back as well, and I have no idea how. This thing seems to be a scratch magnet!
Bracelet
The only real negative for me. It has a little bit of stretch but not too bad. It feels cheap (the clasp especially so) and I can't get a comfortable fit due to the odd number of links on each side. Much prefer my Speedy's bracelet. The only positive I have is that its much lighter.
Timekeeping/Movement
The tried and true 3185. Keeping time at +1spd at the moment. Excellent. Too much play in the hands for my liking but it's ok. I'm having difficulty screws in the crown back in, however. It kind of 'locks' after about a quarter of a turn. I definitely haven't crossed the threads, it's as if something inside isn't disengaging properly to allow it to screw in. A bit of a downer, I hope it isn't an issue.
Overall
Very pleased with my purchase. It's a ten year old watch that looks brand new. It's different, classy, sharp, functional and should last a lifetime. The bracelet is a negative but I can live with it for now. I may put it on a NATO or leather after a while anyway.
If anyone has any advice/opinions on the crown issue, I'd love to hear them. Also, is it really that much of a scratch magnet? I haven't really worn it that much but it seems to scratch by looking at it! Trying to get over that at the moment!
Anyway, probably the longest post I've ever written. If you found it useful, entertaining, or thought provoking, then it wa worth my time! Thank you!
Well, I received a great response, with lots of thoughtful suggestions, but the Exp.II Kept coming back. A few months back (when I started really looking) I got the chance to properly handle one in an AD in the U.K. (Pre-owned). All the pictures I had seen (there were a lot!) came to life. It was the Omega Great White that took me down the path of white-dialled GMT watches, and remained a close second throughout, but there was something special about the Rolex. I did, incidentally, recently get the chance to see the black and white versions side by side. No contest for me. White.
So, I trawled Watchrecon, various online dealers, a couple of shops and eventually found one that seemed to fit.
The Watch
It's an early Z serial, making it 2006 but with the 3185 (and no Rehaut engraving). I'd seen a few later ones but they seemed to be commanding a premium I didn't think was worth it. It has SEL and the non-lugholes case, both features I wanted. The watch itself has recently had a full service by a Rolex-trained 3rd party watchmaker. For a ten year old watch, it arrived in immaculate condition. The case and bracelet sides are perfectly mirror like, the lugs and case are sharp and look brand new. The bezel is virtually flawless, so is the bracelet. It's running at about +1spd. Very impressed. It does not look like a ten year old watch. This is good as it has had a very competent refurbishment, but of course I don't know the full history or what it looked like before. It can't have been in too bad a condition as like I say, it looks great, and all surfaces, chamfers, edges etc are sharp.
Also, it means any marks/scratches I put on it are mine. This is good and bad. If it had been a little bit beat, I'd cope with any extra. As it arrived in pristine condition, the pain of the first scratches is quite prominent. I've already scratched the case side and caseback and it's incredibly annoying!
Dial
What really drew me in. Icy white with those glossy black white gold painted markers, it offers great contrast and is very different. The red GMT hand is a great contrast, although the red paint doesn't extend all the way to the base of the arrow.
I find it very legible so far, even in low light conditions. The Luke isn't great, but so far I have found it adequate, and quite long-lasting. It's crisp, different, and wears well, although different to how I imagined (difficult to explain).
I'm not a particular fan of the cyclops, but it's fine, and the date feature is useful (something my Speedy Pro doesn't have!).
Bezel
Another strong point. The lettering is sharp, with no black enamel missing. I like the font and the spacing is perfect. A lot has been said about the 'sunburst' brushing and it catches the light brilliantly. Keeping track of 'Zulu' time is going to be easy (handy!)
Case
Perfect size for me at 39mm (+3 for the crown and guards). I have small wrist at about 6.5in and it fits well. The shape is classic and the difference between polish and brushing is stark. I kinda wish the case sides were brushed as well, however, as in the week I've had it I've already put some scratches on the sides. I don't take scratches on watches very well. A neuroticism I'm slowly learning to live with. The caseback is plain with the standard brush finish in the middle. Boring compared to many other Watch brands but it's functional. I have somehow put small marks on the back as well, and I have no idea how. This thing seems to be a scratch magnet!
Bracelet
The only real negative for me. It has a little bit of stretch but not too bad. It feels cheap (the clasp especially so) and I can't get a comfortable fit due to the odd number of links on each side. Much prefer my Speedy's bracelet. The only positive I have is that its much lighter.
Timekeeping/Movement
The tried and true 3185. Keeping time at +1spd at the moment. Excellent. Too much play in the hands for my liking but it's ok. I'm having difficulty screws in the crown back in, however. It kind of 'locks' after about a quarter of a turn. I definitely haven't crossed the threads, it's as if something inside isn't disengaging properly to allow it to screw in. A bit of a downer, I hope it isn't an issue.
Overall
Very pleased with my purchase. It's a ten year old watch that looks brand new. It's different, classy, sharp, functional and should last a lifetime. The bracelet is a negative but I can live with it for now. I may put it on a NATO or leather after a while anyway.
If anyone has any advice/opinions on the crown issue, I'd love to hear them. Also, is it really that much of a scratch magnet? I haven't really worn it that much but it seems to scratch by looking at it! Trying to get over that at the moment!
Anyway, probably the longest post I've ever written. If you found it useful, entertaining, or thought provoking, then it wa worth my time! Thank you!
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