Point taken, maybe beats should be replaced with "shames" ?

 

Lange just needs to chill out with dinner plate size with sections of dial unused.

The PP is a true dress watch that’s expensive compared to Lange being a expensive watch

 

The FS NOS minty Seiko should cover a large part.

 

The Saxonia Thin @ 37mm (5.9mm thick) and the small seconds Saxonia @ 35mm (7.3mm thick) are arguably more "true dress watch" than the 39mm (8.1mm thick) 6119 with its railroad track, no?

 

No, the dinner plate style is not to my liking


But give me a Longines 8888

 

The dark grey 6119G is not bad but I think I still prefer the subtle two tone dial of my VC 82172, and the clean bezel. None of that hobnail malarkey...

 

It’s a bit “austere” isn’t it. I definitely prefer the design of the small seconds Saxonia.

 

+1.. love the movements but not the dials.

 

And all below Lange

 

Could be. I have to admit most of my attention has been on the mid level luxury segment so, at the end of the day have only cursory knowledge of exactly how the top tier is fairly and realistically tiered.

All great watches to me. One day I'll look into it with more care. for now I own a JLC and would love a VC or a Patek...that's just on what I have seen.

 

I dunno, the fact that they are adamant against using silicium, and that their finishing has a couple issues would have me disagree.

 

Yes and no.

First, I agree that for $30k, this would not be what I would be buying. Second, design is very subjective, so if that is critical to being at the "pinnacle" or not is highly debatable. For myself, I find very few of their designs compelling, so I do agree that most are pretty "meh" overall.

As for execution, at this level you are spot on and this is weak movement finishing, and short cuts are being taken in both choice of features and execution. However, when you get to their very high end pieces, they are still at the top IMO.

Cheers, Al

 

If I were going to spend ~$30k on a Hobnail gold Patek, I would get this one :

 

IMHO, I'd certainly add ALS as it's more than a little above the rest.

 

Out of curiosity, what are the movement shortcuts being taken?

 

Well, the first thing that strikes me is the lack of sharp interior angles. So from a design standpoint they seemed to have gone out of their way to avoid those.

The methods used to form the Côtes de Genève are different than what you see on the higher end models (ALS and others take this shortcut as well).

 

Now that you mention it, I do see it. Seems like that might also be the case on higher-end models too though? The shot of the CH 29-535 on their website clearly shows the "grooving" you mentioned in another thread. When pictures of other high-end movements are blown up, the phenomenon can clearly be seen as well, although the prominence seems to depend on the angle at which the photo was taken.

 

It's not always easy to see, I agree. You have to really look for the clues and sometimes you can't see it well enough to make a conclusion.

To be honest it's not a brand I really follow, so I don't keep up with what they are doing at any given time. What I do know is that they have done it the traditional way in the past. It may be they only do this now for very special pieces...