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Panerai movement
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blufinz52
··Hears dead people, not watch rotors.I really like it.
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Foo2rama
··Keeps his worms in a ball instead of a can.I don't like how the case back appears to be a different color then the case and is marked Ti.
If this is a Ti limited edition and it is not priced high... well...
If this is a Ti limited edition and it is not priced high... well...
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Hadders
·Its a good spot on caseback but may be light as crown looks ok. It is movement that concerned me as previous ones I have owned have had panerai engravings on whole movement and also P on the movement looks wrong.
It is indeed cheap in a local auction catalogue but poor description so trying to work out if worth a punt...
It is indeed cheap in a local auction catalogue but poor description so trying to work out if worth a punt...
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rcs914
·I assume that "TITANIUN" is the Italian spelling? 😉
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Canuck
·And note that the movement is marked OFFICINE, but the case back is marked OFFICIN! Dead giveaway? I should think so.
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Hadders
·Gosh can't believe I missed that! that's my question well answered
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JimInOz
··Melbourne AustraliaTo quote an eBay discussion group.
"Always question the photos. Ask for the movement shot. And stay away from the replicated serial numbers H0035/2000 on PAM111 and H0117/1000 on the PAM177 and 217."
And from TZ-UK, a very good post by "Junior".
"Caseback numbers are usually a good pointer. For some reason, most fake Panerai (of all types and models) are number 117 - either 117/1500, 117/1000, or 117/500 - goodness knows why. If it's a 183, it will have an exhibition back, so the movement can be seen; it should be a calibre OP X1, which is a tweaked ETA 6497/2 (http://www.paneraisource.com/details/OPXI.html). The opposite end of the dagger pointer at the swan's neck regulator has the typical ETA single brass screw, whereas the Asian clone movements have two silver screws. I'm sure there are several other indicators, but these might be a good place to start looking."
"Always question the photos. Ask for the movement shot. And stay away from the replicated serial numbers H0035/2000 on PAM111 and H0117/1000 on the PAM177 and 217."
And from TZ-UK, a very good post by "Junior".
"Caseback numbers are usually a good pointer. For some reason, most fake Panerai (of all types and models) are number 117 - either 117/1500, 117/1000, or 117/500 - goodness knows why. If it's a 183, it will have an exhibition back, so the movement can be seen; it should be a calibre OP X1, which is a tweaked ETA 6497/2 (http://www.paneraisource.com/details/OPXI.html). The opposite end of the dagger pointer at the swan's neck regulator has the typical ETA single brass screw, whereas the Asian clone movements have two silver screws. I'm sure there are several other indicators, but these might be a good place to start looking."
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bigsom
·That's definitely a chinese movement and fake caseback.
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stockae92
·Its fake. It has the tell tale of a fake movement.
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Honza
·To quote an eBay discussion group.
"Always question the photos. Ask for the movement shot. And stay away from the replicated serial numbers H0035/2000 on PAM111 and H0117/1000 on the PAM177 and 217."
And from TZ-UK, a very good post by "Junior".
"Caseback numbers are usually a good pointer. For some reason, most fake Panerai (of all types and models) are number 117 - either 117/1500, 117/1000, or 117/500 - goodness knows why. If it's a 183, it will have an exhibition back, so the movement can be seen; it should be a calibre OP X1, which is a tweaked ETA 6497/2 (http://www.paneraisource.com/details/OPXI.html). The opposite end of the dagger pointer at the swan's neck regulator has the typical ETA single brass screw, whereas the Asian clone movements have two silver screws. I'm sure there are several other indicators, but these might be a good place to start looking."
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Every day I learn something new on this forum.
