Opinion on 1968 Seamaster

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I would say it's legit, but from some angles a bit more polished than I would like. Especially at the asking price as @hoipolloi mentioned.
 
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Thanks for all your help. I’ll see if there’s some flexibility in the price.
 
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The seller said it was sold when I offered a price.

On to the next. The following auction just went live and it might a good one from what I can tell. The serial number puts it in my year, 1968, and it looks beautiful. What’s the consensus of the expert panel? It feels a bit overpriced.

Dead Link/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/192373926969

Thanks in advance.
 
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The seller said it was sold when I offered a price.

On to the next. The following auction just went live and it might a good one from what I can tell. The serial number puts it in my year, 1968, and it looks beautiful. What’s the consensus of the expert panel? It feels a bit overpriced.

Dead Link/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/192373926969

Thanks in advance.
Price seems high given that the watch needs a service. There is strong evidence of rotor wear. If the seller cannot document a recent service where the rotor bushing was replaced, then assume off it goes for service as soon as you get it.
 
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Thanks, I am expecting anything I purchase I'll immediately send to service and order an extract. 😀
 
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Just curious, when seeking a birth-year Omega, what are you going by to date the watch? The movement serial number, the reference number/year on the case back, or when the watch was sold, if you have that information?

Seems as if there could be differences of several years, depending on how you're trying to date the watch.
 
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Personally, I've been using the movement serial number but I'm open to better methods. I'm guessing its next to impossible to get a guaranteed specific year as the movement might be one year and other parts another year (esp. if manufactured at beginning or end of year).
 
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Just curious, when seeking a birth-year Omega, what are you going by to date the watch? The movement serial number, the reference number/year on the case back, or when the watch was sold, if you have that information?

Seems as if there could be differences of several years, depending on how you're trying to date the watch.
That's the rub. Do you want an estimated manufacturing date for the movement, or when the extract indicates it was delivered. or when it was sold by the dealer.

Best not to get too hung up on the date and just choose the best example from the estimated manufacturing date, or if lucky, from the date in the extract.
 
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Most people just use the serial number.
 
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Most people just use the serial number.
That's what I did, and somehow, I still sleep at night... 🙄
 
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In the second picture of the post it looks like the top right lug had been really polished down compared to the others. I'd also ask for a better shot of the movement that is more macro and in focus.

The seller has a lot of sales under their belt with good feedback, but they did have a couple of folks that said their watches were delivered with problems. I'd say take it with a grain of salt, less than 1% poor feedback.
 
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The seller said it was sold when I offered a price.

On to the next. The following auction just went live and it might a good one from what I can tell. The serial number puts it in my year, 1968, and it looks beautiful. What’s the consensus of the expert panel? It feels a bit overpriced.

Dead Link/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/192373926969

Thanks in advance.

Yes, it's quite overpriced, I'd say $700-$750 top. Yes, it's a dealer but still overpriced.

Have you looked in the Private Sales section here on the forum?

https://omegaforums.net/forums/private-watch-sales/
 
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Thanks for the feedback on the latest post, I agree too expensive and not 100% what I'm looking for. @X350 XJR - definitely watching the private watch sales and it would be my preferred place to purchase. Once I'm able to post in WTB I'll put something there too. I'm not in a hurry, so I'll keep watching.

Just wanted to say a big thank you to everyone here - I really appreciate your insights and help as I learn more how to identify good vintage Omegas.