Omega Speedmaster Hesalite vs Sapphire: Which Moonwatch Should You Buy?

ballabon · Dec 26, 2022

This thread compares the Omega Speedmaster Professional Hesalite and Sapphire models, including durability, looks, value and long-term ownership trade-offs. If you are stuck between the two Moonwatch versions, this gives a practical buyer-focused answer.

I'm considering to buy my first speedmaster professional but can't decide which one. Current hesalite model is cheaper, more historically accurate and has more vintage look. But, I'm a bit concerned about how it will wear overtime vs. more durable sapphire crystal. Also, caseback sapphire display is a nice touch since its movement is beautiful so. Also, which model hold up their value better in resell market?

For speedy owners, what is your take on this? Which one would you recommend? Thanks a lot.

Quick answer:

Choose Hesalite for heritage, warmth and the classic Moonwatch feel
Choose Sapphire for the display back and greater crystal scratch resistance

Jostein · Dec 27, 2022

As a newcomer in watches I asked myself the same questions earlier this year. I bought the hesalite Speedmaster, keeping it closer to the original Moonwatch. I didnt dare to go vintage due to lack of knowledge, and also wanted å new watch to put my own wear and tear marks on. I dont think the hesalite scratches as easy as some says it does, I have no visible or annoying scratches after almost a year of wear in rotation. Mine is a keeper, so never thought of resell value on hesalite versus sapphire.
Good luck choosing the version You want, and enjoy a fantastic watch either way 😀

smpforme · Dec 27, 2022

Jostein
As a newcomer in watches I asked myself the same questions earlier this year. I bought the hesalite Speedmaster, keeping it closer to the original Moonwatch. I didnt dare to go vintage due to lack of knowledge, and also wanted å new watch to put my own wear and tear marks on. I dont think the hesalite scratches as easy as some says it does, I have no visible or annoying scratches after almost a year of wear in rotation. Mine is a keeper, so never thought of resell value on hesalite versus sapphire.
Good luck choosing the version You want, and enjoy a fantastic watch either way 😀

I remember the days of acrylic and hesalite. I am looking at the sapphire version. For me it is a modern interpretation with the 3861 and Metas certification. I prefer the latest crystal as well.

gbesq · Dec 27, 2022

If you want to go the traditional route, get hesalite. Contrary to popular belief, sapphire is not bulletproof. It can be scratched (although it is certainly much more scratch resistant than hesalite) or if the watch is dropped onto a hard service or suffers a hard hit - say on a doorframe - at the right angle, sapphire can shatter. That can result in damage to the dial. Even if there is no dial damage, there is no fix for a badly scratched or shattered sapphire crystal other than replacement and that can be expensive. Hesalite, on the other hand, can easily be polished back to its original appearance with a little PolyWatch and a soft cloth. Hesalite can crack if it suffers a hard hit, but it won’t shatter and replacement is much less expensive than sapphire.

TrboDieselPwrd · Dec 27, 2022

Since you are considering the current models, it would be a good idea to go to an authorized dealer or Omega Boutique and try them both on. There are other subtle differences (polished inner links on bracelet, applied metal logo on the sapphire) that may make a difference for you. The hesalite offers a slightly different depth to the way the dial presents also, again subtle, but if you have the ability to see them both in the metal then it's probably the best way for you to decide.
If you do go hesalite, it's always recommended to buy yourself a tube of polywatch to polish out those inevitable scratches. Minor marks and scratches are gonna happen, and unless you're especially rough with it it's not a huge deal.

riles · Dec 27, 2022

I went through the same internal debate and last week settled on the Hesalite version, bought at OB in NYC during a holiday trip.

I was leaning sapphire sandwich, mainly for the display caseback and the increased crystal durability, but seeing them in person side by side just thought the Hesalite has a lot more “soul” and depth to the dial.

Still thinking about going with an aftermarket display caseback —got pretty much a cop out/non-answer from the sales person when I asked what Omega’s view of warranty service on such a watch would be.

ballabon · Dec 27, 2022

TrboDieselPwrd
Since you are considering the current models, it would be a good idea to go to an authorized dealer or Omega Boutique and try them both on. There are other subtle differences (polished inner links on bracelet, applied metal logo on the sapphire) that may make a difference for you. The hesalite offers a slightly different depth to the way the dial presents also, again subtle, but if you have the ability to see them both in the metal then it's probably the best way for you to decide.
If you do go hesalite, it's always recommended to buy yourself a tube of polywatch to polish out those inevitable scratches. Minor marks and scratches are gonna happen, and unless you're especially rough with it it's not a huge deal.

Thanks a lot for your insight. Many people mentioned Polywatch on this forum. Is it really that good? Would minor scratches on hesalite be gone by just applying Polywatch? If that the case, I wouldn't have to worry about the scratch then since it's much cheaper then professional polishing / brushing services.

Cougar1968 · Dec 27, 2022

I went hesalite mainly because it was cheaper to be honest. The display case back would be cool but I’d probably look at it once a month, I also prefer the all brushed bracelet to the polished.

bananapeanut · Dec 27, 2022

It's a small detail for most people but I much prefer to have an applied Omega logo on the dial rather than a printed one. For this reason only, I would go with the sapphire model. The display caseback is a nice bonus too.

Seabass23 · Dec 27, 2022

B ballabon
Thanks a lot for your insight. Many people mentioned Polywatch on this forum. Is it really that good? Would minor scratches on hesalite be gone by just applying Polywatch? If that the case, I wouldn't have to worry about the scratch then since it's much cheaper then professional polishing / brushing services.

In my experience, the answer is yes. Minor scratches on hesalite can basically be erased with Polywatch.
For me, hesalite is superior to sapphire in appearance and feel. With some Polywatch in your back pocket, you every reason to buy hesalite!

Foo2rama · Dec 27, 2022

Hesalite no question.

look at all the 70’s and earlier pieces and tell me there is a problem with hesalite.

BarbVl · Dec 27, 2022

With the "Moonwatch" you can't go wrong in any way..I think they will keep the value for many years from now.

gbesq · Dec 27, 2022

Here’s a photo of my 1969 Speedmaster with the original hesalite crystal - more than 50 years old! See all the scratches on the crystal? No? That’s because there are none. Why? PolyWatch.

Aroxx · Dec 27, 2022

I recently went through this exercise myself when purchasing my new Speedmaster. I always wanted the sapphire version because of the display case back. Not much thought put into it. When it actually became time to buy I went hesalite primarily to avoid the dreaded “milky ring” around the edge of the sapphire. Also, I figured after the novelty wore off I would rarely look at the movement and the front is what I’ll be seeing 99.9% of the time.

I’ve since learned here that the milk ring effect is much more pronounced in photographs than in person. Also, the newer sapphire crystals like on the new 321 which may or may not be making their way to the standard Speedy have less milk ring effect. Seeing them both in person will be the best way to decide which one you prefer. I’ve scuffed mine a few times and polywatch buffs it right out. I wouldn’t worry too much about scratches. There is also an older version that had a hesalite front and sapphire display back if this is a hang up for you. I believe one is for sale on this forum right now.

If I could mix and match I’d love the applied logo with the brushed bracelet and a hesalite front with the display back. But alas, some trade offs have to be made.

One other thing to be aware of. The new Speedys are starting to roll out with a two position push button micro-adjust clasp. If you buy now you may get the old clasp. If you really want the new clasp you’ll have to get eyes on it at your AD/OB and confirm before buying. If you order online you won’t know what you’re getting until it shows up.

riles · Dec 27, 2022

Aroxx
One other thing to be aware of. The new Speedys are starting to roll out with a two position push button micro-adjust clasp. If you buy now you may get the old clasp. If you really want the new clasp you’ll have to get eyes on it at your AD/OB and confirm before buying. If you order online you won’t know what you’re getting until it shows up.

Good point. When I asked about it last week at the OB, they first said they had only received one watch with the new clasp, but when I indicated I would pass on buying until I found one with it they “discovered” another one.

TrboDieselPwrd · Dec 27, 2022

B ballabon
Thanks a lot for your insight. Many people mentioned Polywatch on this forum. Is it really that good? Would minor scratches on hesalite be gone by just applying Polywatch? If that the case, I wouldn't have to worry about the scratch then since it's much cheaper then professional polishing / brushing services.

I think you got your answer already from earlier responses but I'll pile on a bit more with my thoughts. Yes, absolutely, polywatch will handle the minor stuff no problem. I used it on a crystal that I really scuffed as I got my hand stuck behind a child's car seat and it came out no problem. If you're really worried, they even offer a pad attachment you can put in your Dremel or similar rotary tool. I have this and I've never had to use it. Further, your watchmaker, AD, or Omega Boutique would be able to polish it out with great results (and probably at no cost).

Bottom line: I wouldn't let the fear of scratches to hesalite be a deciding factor. Both hesalite and sapphire are excellent, as others said you can't go wrong with either. The difference is going to be in the minor visuals and the display caseback, and of course the difference in cost.

TrboDieselPwrd · Dec 27, 2022

Here's my 1971 Speedy that I've put some good scratches on that polywatch had no problems handling. Added bonus with hesalite, it really makes that stepped dial pop! 😉

Cenzo · Dec 27, 2022

Welcome @ballabon

Agree with all the hesalite votes and everything @TrboDieselPwrd said above. When I got mine it was the last gen and there was no option of an applied logo with Sapphire. So that complicates the decision a bit.

But if you are worried about the hesalite being scratched easily or hard to maintain, don't be. I was moving my son into his college
apt and got pinned against a wall in the staircase moving a couch. Put a pretty deep scratch at 12 o'clock. A few minutes with polywatch and it was gone. Plus when you get it serviced you will get a new crystal so you start out fresh every 5-7 years.

Good luck with your decision and you will find the forum full of great advice and knowledge. By all means, go check them out and look at them side-by-side. At the end of the day goes with what feels best for you.

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JMO1995 · Dec 27, 2022

I’ll add another vote to the hesalite, I made the same decision this time last year and unless you’re after the display case back or applied logo then I think saving the money is the better choice.

I’ve scratched up my hesalite crystal on two occasions and other than the first time doing it where I was annoyed at myself and a bit overly concerned due to it being my first expensive watch, it’s totally fine. As everyone else has posted out, you could always polish the scratches out once every 6-12 months and then replace with each service.

4011021 · Dec 27, 2022

I agree with what everyone said about the hesalite. It does look great and charming. It's part of the classic speedmaster identity.

However, to have a strong, bright and clear piece of glass instead of plastic in your watch does make it look and feel more premium. The Speedmaster is not a cheap watch and is more expensive now than it was just a few years ago. It's not by chance that every special edition of the Speedmaster comes with sapphire. Today's regular 3861 is probably about the same price of some of the special editions from years ago?

The sapphire version does look different, at some angles very different, more like a different and updated version of a classic design, something you might like or not. Just like the movement, since the 3861 is a co-axial movement that is an updated version of a classic design.

Just to bring a different perspective to this thread. Not mentioning the applied logo, the open back and the different bracelet that were already mentioned.

Omega Speedmaster Hesalite vs Sapphire: Which Moonwatch Should You Buy?

ballabon

Jostein

smpforme

gbesq

TrboDieselPwrd

riles

ballabon

Cougar1968

bananapeanut

Seabass23

Foo2rama

BarbVl

gbesq

Aroxx

riles

TrboDieselPwrd

TrboDieselPwrd

Cenzo

JMO1995

4011021

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