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  1. 250scr Jan 4, 2015

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    Hi, I was wondering what would be a good way to remove the case back and then the dust cover on my omega speedmaster cal 321? I just need to take the cover off so i can get a look at the movement to make sure it is original to the watch. Thank you
     
  2. repoman Jan 4, 2015

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    Like with most jobs, you need the correct tool to do it right. You can buy crazy expensive tools, but something like thisPurchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network works pretty well on a Speedmaster caseback. Without a good tool, just take it to any local watchmaker and have them do it for you, take your snaps, and have them put it back on.
     
  3. 250scr Jan 4, 2015

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    ok, so using a pair of scissors is probably a bad idea then?
     
  4. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 4, 2015

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    The scissor method or needle nose pliers method is what leads to those really crappy looking long gouges leading out of the caseback grooves... I've got one here with that and it bugs me every time I see it :|
     
  5. Spacefruit Prolific Speedmaster Hoarder Jan 4, 2015

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  6. 250scr Jan 4, 2015

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    yea, i figured if I had to ask that question, then it probably isn't a good idea. I'll just take it to the jewelers in the morning. Trying to just save a little time.
     
  7. 250scr Jan 4, 2015

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    thanks for the video
     
  8. repoman Jan 4, 2015

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    great vid... "if you slip now, you'll hate yourself forever". No truer words have ever been spoken.
     
    Seaborg and TLIGuy like this.
  9. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 4, 2015

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    I watched to the end just for the crisp British accent, was like hearing Roger Moore tell me how to open a Speedmaster :D
     
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  10. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 4, 2015

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    We all have different ways of doing things and in many cases different levels of equipment. If I can interject a couple of things here though that you all might find helpful.

    First off, I agree the two pronged openers are the worst, but the three prong of that style are not all that much better IMO. If you are using one of these openers, the best way to use it is with a case holder, that is clamped into a bench vice. This keeps the case steady as you use an opener to loosen the case back. I would then place the opener on the case back and use the palm of one hand to hold it flat while turning it with the other. The case back in that video was certainly not very tight, so when you do get a tight one, or one that is sealed with a gooped up gasket, having the case holder and vice will be very helpful.

    I would make sure there are no sharp corners on the prongs of the opener you use (remember most tools, even expensive tools, do not come ready to use and must be looked at and prepared prior to use) as this will reduce the chances of scratches when simply placing the tool in the grooves and adjusting it for size - as you can see it can be awkward to do in the video.

    Often if the threads are not great the case back will be different to turn with your fingers as shown, and for this reason I always keep a case opening ball in my bench. They are cheap, effective, and can be used to loosen case backs that are not really tight, and you won't even need the Jaxa style opener. These balls are non-marking and if inflated to the proper level, and kept clean, work very well.

    One thing not mentioned is to clean around the case back before opening the case. I would recommend running a sharp toothpick (the sturdy round type) around the case back to remove any dirt and debris before loosening the back - you don't want anything going into the case. A hand held air puffer works well for getting rid of this once you have loosened the dirt from the case back area, but you can also wipe it with a cloth.

    Also note that when the case back is loose and can be removed, the only thing holding the movement in the case is the stem. The case screws on a Speedmaster Pro do not hold the movement to the case, but the movement to the enlargement ring. The ring and movement simply sits inside the case, and the whole unit is pressed into the case and held there by the pressure of the case back on the dust cover. So don't flip the watch over dial up once the case back has been removed, because the movement will move inside the case, and this can cause dial damage. Also, when prying the dust cover off, always pry from the stem side of the movement, not the other side.

    And please don't handle anything, including the dust cover, with bare fingers. I see finger prints etched in these and this is why. Finger cots or a glove are recommended.

    Lastly when replacing the back, if you don't replace the case back seal, then at least apply some silicone grease to the O-ring (a small amount will do, you just need a thin film). The grease does not help the watch seal as many think, at least not directly. The grease allows the case back to slide over the seal as it is being tightened so the seal does not tear or stretch.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers, Al
     
    M'Bob, neo1022, stefan_in_LA and 9 others like this.
  11. 250scr Jan 4, 2015

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    That is a lot of great information. thank you. I did look at the speedmaster 101 site and it keeps stating about an asymmetric case back. I'm not sure what to compare that too as far as one that is not symmetric. Any one have any pix to compare? Thank you
     
  12. Tritium Jan 4, 2015

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    Great video and great explanation from Al.
    Saved for future reference - obasac
     
  13. jud Jan 4, 2015

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    Thanks for both the video and the explanation. Both are appreciated.