Omega Seamaster Polaris Battery Replacement Help

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I removed the battery from my Polaris and upon reinstallation of the battery the watch doesn’t display anything.

-Is there a procedure to reinitialize/wake up the watch?
-Or did I dislodge the thin film insulator wafers so that they’re now out of position?
-Or am I overlooking something?

The little handbook is totally silent on the topic of battery replacement except for specifications. If someone could offer a hand, I would be grateful.

Cheers,
Mike

 
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There is sometimes a spot marked 'AC" on the board that you have to bridge to get it started again).

That said, I can't see the photo well enough to see if that is what is going on here. Check out the tech sheet on the ETA version of the movement: https://watchguy.co.uk/tmp/ETA251.252,251.262,251.272.pdf

There are some tests below that will tell you with a multimeter how to diagnosei t.
 
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Did you replace the insulator back under the neg. terminal properly? Pull the battery and check the voltage. If a new battery is showing less than 1.57 v, you might have shorted it. This is the most common mistake.



There is also a handy, inexpensive tool you can use to listen for a "tick" to check if the stepper motor is receiving a signal.

 
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Did you replace the insulator back under the neg. terminal properly? Pull the battery and check the voltage. If a new battery is showing less than 1.57 v, you might have shorted it. This is the most common mistake.



There is also a handy, inexpensive tool you can use to listen for a "tick" to check if the stepper motor is receiving a signal.

Thanks for the tip. The “frying pan-shaped” insulator is was placed underneath the paddle first with the “handle” in a slot underneath the springed paddle, and next the “donut” shaped insulator was placed underneath the springed paddle with the two extensions aligned with corresponding slots in the base of the battery bay. It made the most sense to me, but to you does this look right?

 
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Thanks for the tip. The “frying pan-shaped” insulator is was placed underneath the paddle first with the “handle” in a slot underneath the springed paddle, and next the “donut” shaped insulator was placed underneath the springed paddle with the two extensions aligned with corresponding slots in the base of the battery bay. It made the most sense to me, but to you does this look right?

…and battery reads 1.57v.
 
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You need to check if the battery is making contact with the circuit. You can carefully probe the circuit with your multimeter or get the little instrument above that has a microphone in it to amplify the stepper motor circuit noise.
 
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You need to check if the battery is making contact with the circuit. You can carefully probe the circuit with your multimeter or get the little instrument above that has a microphone in it to amplify the stepper motor circuit noise.

 
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Battery voltage reads 1.57v and with the battery in place there is 1.57v reading between the + base and the trace above “A”.

My understanding is pressed in is a momentary switch, neutral is the normal use position and pulled out is the setting position. Should the stem be pulled out when the battery is removed?

Any other thoughts from the experiences here?
 
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@ST555 Thanks for asking, but not yet resolved. I’ve been pretty careful to try and follow the advice here, but I don’t have access to the little pulsemeter so I’ll probably take it to a local watchmaker—either that or melt the gold off of it 😎

At any rate, wearing my Speedy today.
 
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@ST555 Thanks for asking, but not yet resolved. I’ve been pretty careful to try and follow the advice here, but I don’t have access to the little pulsemeter so I’ll probably take it to a local watchmaker—either that or melt the gold off of it 😎

At any rate, wearing my Speedy today.
I have been researching this particular “battery changing” issue since I just purchased one myself. My finding is, there is not AC (All Clear) contact with this movement. However, there is a work around that you should try. I am posting the screen shots of my findings here.