Interesting, Are you an Omega Acreddited by any chance?
Yes, I am. I do understand that watchmakers who don't have access to parts through Omega sometimes have to make compromises in the way they work, which is why I always encourage them to seek Omega certification. The link to your company's web site on your Facebook page doesn't work, so I can't see what equipment you have, but any trained watchmaker with a well-equipped modern shop can pretty easily get certified by Omega.
The only major piece of equipment I can see is your timing machine - that is not of the quality and capability that Omega would accept, so that would need to be upgraded for certain. In addition, you would need a proper cleaning machine, a dry water resistance testing set-up, and a high pressure wet testing set-up (Roxer or equivalent). These are what most modern shops will already have, but if you don't have this equipment it may require spending some money, but you appear to be young enough to have plenty of time to make this money back.
Once you have the equipment and pass some basic training at Omega, parts will be available to you, as well as a wealth of technical information, and if needed Omega specific tools. You clearly have some skills, so I would encourage you to take the next step and look into certification - it will save you a lot of time and trouble, and allow you to elevate your work. I can assure you it is very much worth the investment.
I don't suspect Omega still stocks every single part from the 70's I will be surprised if they do. I have loads of Omega parts, 55xx, 10xx, 102x, and so on. I buy used Omega movement and keep the parts separately, I don't sell parts separately but I used them for a replacement during Omega service If I need to. Things like this help my watchmaking business a lot sometimes.
As I've said, Omega still makes and sells all these parts. For the 55X, 56X, 600's, 750's, 1000's, 1010/1020 and beyond. It's only when you go back to the 500 series or prior calibers that movement parts are not all available.
Well, the parts are very worn and it affects timekeeping and amplitude pretty badly after service. You will be very surprised how little material was taken off without having the sideshake greatly in the jewel hole. Burnish and polish reduce the diameter is very very minimal if you master it properly on the Jacot tool and you can see the end results timegrapher in my picture with great amplitude and timekeeping with six different positions.
As I said, burnishing is a valuable skill to have, and I do it often. However some of the parts you showed are, in my opinion, well past the point of burnishing for repair. As for seeing the end results in the timing machine, that's certainly something, but is not 100% reflective of the end result. Of course as you know some of the parts that were burnished (and some that were too far gone in my opinion), are in the automatic winding system, and results on the timing machine are not going to reflect their ability to function properly, or in the long term. Those parts are under tremendous loads, so making sure they are in like new condition is important.
Also, focusing on the immediate result right after servicing can be somewhat short sighted. When you service a watch that result has to last, so in addition to looking at the immediate result, I always keep in mind that most people will not service a watch on a regular schedule, so the work I do must last for 5 or 10 years. When you are already increasing side shake by burnishing, when that pivot inevitably wears, performance will drop off much quicker than it would with a properly size pivot. Just something to keep in mind.
Yes either replace the parts or repivot or the last resort is to change the jewels for a smaller diameter inner jewel hole but then reaming may have to play the part as well.
I would strongly encourage you not to use a smaller jewel as a way of avoiding a proper repair. All you are doing is making a problem for the next watchmaker who will now have to fix your mistake. You should always repair/replace the part that is bad, not modify the movement to accommodate a bad part. If you are unable to find a new part, then repivoting is the proper repair.
Hope this helps.
Cheers, Al
