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Omega Globemaster bracelet link removal questions

  1. GregH Aug 26, 2018

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    Hi all;

    I went to a local Omega AD simply (so I thought) to get a link removed from my Globemaster bracelet. They returned it with a gap and the outer links not seated properly. The photo below shows the improvement after their 3rd attempt to get it “right” (complaining to me how tiny the screws were!). At that point I just gave up and will bring it elsewhere as I don’t trust that they reassembled it properly.

    My questions for @Archer or others are:
    1. Is this an especially complex bracelet?
    2. Is it usual to remove a link so high up on the bracelet rather than the 1st link?

    I wann’t sure that part of the issue was that the link they decided to remove is higher up, given the subtle taper.

    Thanks in advance for input!

    Greg

    82CCB5F4-1F3E-40F6-967F-1887AB9D38BB.jpeg
     
  2. GregH Aug 27, 2018

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    Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this. G.
     
  3. Rasputin The Mad Monk of OF Aug 27, 2018

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    Assuming they properly threaded the link screw, perhaps they should have removed a different link to allow a more uniform taper to the bracelet?
     
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  4. X350 XJR Vintage Omega Aficionado Aug 27, 2018

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    Looks to me like they somehow may have managed to bend the pin in that link, which is causing the uneven gap.

    614681-3bafa8fad1169c6355945f38c31dc64c.jpg
     
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  5. Longbow Aug 27, 2018

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    That’s rough. I can tell you exactly what’s happened there.

    The link screws (which are quite small, but not unusually so) do not thread into the pin going through the bracelet segments, only into the outer portion of the outer links. When someone removes the first screw the pin is free to move. It can become dislodged from the opposite outer link and ends up sitting high into hole where the screw came out of. If you then try to re-insert the screw it will press on the (too high) removable pin and force the outer link to bend the other fixed pin, which is what has happened in your case. 1C20E9D6-B4C5-4042-8EC9-609F069059BE.jpeg

    Here’s a couple of close-ups that I hope will better explain the different pin heights
    5B4AFFB4-375E-46FE-8E33-3D071366484F.jpeg 342B92D1-0A2B-4C02-8B09-6FE5762A73D1.jpeg
    Sorry for the quality (Crapple iPhoneSE)

    I would insist that the AD source a replacement link and replace the damaged one.

    Note: the removable links are all 18mm wide, so which one is added/removed is irrelevant.
    FC332675-1D55-4A00-A71B-3728B7076896.jpeg
    1) is the last tapered link
    2) is the first removable link

    So, not a disaster and easily fixable, but the AD ought to know better.


    Hope that helps
     
    Edited Aug 27, 2018
    Dan S, omegaswisst, GregH and 2 others like this.
  6. GregH Aug 27, 2018

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    Thanks so much for your input @Longbow , @X350_XJR & @Rasputin ! So since they are all the same and I have the link they removed, it sounds like that could be used to substitute for the damaged link while the AD orders me a replacement. Obviously someone else will be doing the replacement.
     
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  7. Longbow Aug 27, 2018

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    If you show the original AD these close up pics and have a play yourself with the bent/damaged link you will be able explain precisely what they have to watch out for.

    I have seen the same mistake made at an Omega Boutique on a limited edition, so you could have the same issue at any other dealer/boutique.

    I would also ask them to use the correct width screwdriver (2mm) and check that it fits snugly into the screw slot. If it’s too narrow or doesn’t fill the slot adequately it will likely make a mess of the screw head.

    And don’t forget the thread lock.
     
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  8. GregH Aug 27, 2018

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    Longbow likes this.