Pictured here is my Omega Cosmic square 18K yellow gold moon phase, triple date wristwatch. According to Omega's archives in Bienne Switzerland, the movement is caliber 381, and the case reference is 3944. The case number is 10'805'264. Movement number is 11'209'904. The watch was originally delivered to the Swiss market in January 1952.

PLEASE CLICK ON PICTURES TO ENLARGE.














image search

 

Thank you for the reply and gracious welcome. Though I own the Cosmic square moon phase since 2001, I have never posted on this forum. I usually post on the military watch site Broadarrow.net, but came across this post recently. One of the interesting details about these watches, besides the shape of the case, is the configuration of the 31 blue date numbers. On the original dials from Omega, all blue date numbers along the top and bottom of the square periphery dial should be in the same right side up direction. The picture you posted has the bottom row of date numbers upside down, which is incorrect.

 

The dial that @dsio presented is not factory original. It is an older restored dial. Notice that besides the bottom row of numbers being upside down (which most experts consider incorrect), there is no Swiss or Swiss Made at the bottom edge visible. Obviously because of the triple date, and moon phase setting openings in the case, these watches were susceptible to moisture penetration. When the watches were brought in for services, dials with imperfections were often restored, as part of a normal service. When these dials were refinished, it was easier for the restorer to print the blue numerals in one continuous line around the square edge (similar to applying the 31 numerals around a circular dial), thus the bottom row upside down, instead of right side up. Aligning the numbers right side up is more difficult, and interrupts the circular application. Even older restoration done when these watches were sent back to Bienne, were redone with the incorrect configuration, since Omega never restored dials themselves. All redials were sent out by Bienne to one of their dial suppliers for repainting. I bought my watch in 2001 with the dial as pictured. I assume like you that it is a refinished dial, as it weasand still is in exemplary condition. I can tell you though that the finish and condition of the matte silver dial, is exactly the same as silver fields of the day and month windows, under high magnification. With most redials, the original day / month windows appear older and aged in comparison to the finish of the dial field. In addition, all gold dial markers are in near perfect condition, and show no age, and do not look older than the dial field finish.

 

Can't claim any expertise on the square Cosmics,
but on the round ones my first test is always comparing
the way the "1's" in the surround dates line up with the
hash marks compared to known originals

 

I really appreciate the interest and sharing of knowledge and expertise created by my first post on this forum. If there is more interest, I would love to continue this discussion concerning the correct original dial configuration of this special watch in Omega's history. I have taken the liberty to post pictures of the sources I explored, when trying to analyze the dial that came on my Omega Cosmic square TDMP first shipped in 1952, and purchased by me in 2001.
The points I look at:
1) The bottom row of blue date numbers, 12 through 19 are right-side up, not inverted.
2) Either the words Swiss Made or just the word Swiss is printed below the dates of 15 and 16. There should also be a slight space between the 15 and 16 and the Swiss Made/ Swiss printing so the Swiss Made/ Swiss does not overlap (touch) the 15 and 16.
3) The right upper corner of the DAY window should line up with the center of the M in the logo OMEGA. The upper left corner of the month window should line up with the center of the G in OMEGA.
4) The printed cross hatch that represents the seconds track should touch the bottom of the left and right corners of the bottom of the moon phase window on the horizontal, and extend between the top of the center of the moon phase window to the bottom of the center hole for the hour, minute, and date hands. In addition, the thickness of the cross hatch should be slightly thinner than the thickness of the minute slashes, thus a slight difference in thickness between where the center vertical line connects with the minute slash at the 6 o'clock position.
5) The bottom ends of the minute slash marks along the bottom should line up with the bottom base of the gold triangular hour markers at 5 and 7o'clock and the top of the minute slash marks along the top of the dial should line up with the top of the triangular gold markers at 1 and 11 o'clock and the top of the two gold pyramids at 12 o'clock.

Please note that in the picture submitted from member dsio,

1) The bottom row of date numerals are inverted, which I stand by as being incorrect. I am aware that there was a variation of the Cosmic square TDMP dial that had a sunken sub second circle with seconds hash marks instead of the more common cross hatch on a flat dial as my example, but even that version has the numbers 12 through 19 rightsize up, and either SWISS MADE or SWISS on the bottom of the dial below and between the 15 and 16 date numerals.
2) The example submitted by does not have Swiss or Swiss made.
3) If one looks closely at the vertical cross line on the dsio picture, there appears that there is space between the left corner of the moon phase window and the line.
4) In the example from dsio, The right top corner of the day window display does NOT line up properly with the center of the M in OMEGA. It lines up off center to the left on the M.

I have found that most watch companies today do not have clear and accurate historical knowledge of many of the nuanced details of their vintage watches. This is because of the fact that most of the Swiss watch companies have had several different owners since the original production of said pieces. I find this to be true of Omega, and especially true of Blancpain. I have several versions of Blancpain vintage military Fifty Fathoms including Bunds, and Milspecs, and can not relay on the current company for any historically accurate information. Patekl Phillipe is of course a rare exception.

I have included picture of some resource information pictures from vintage watch books, as well as auction pictures from Christies, Bonhams, and Antiquarium. The auction pictures date from 1999 to 2016. I have also included the some what famous Hodinkee picture of the example sold by Mathew Bain, that is very close to my dial, and is held up by many as the standard for an original dial with the correct configuration.

 

I don't want to get overly detailed, but per what I mention about the alignment of the minute markers along the top and bottom lines of the square dial with the bases of the pyramid gold markers and the alignment of the slashes with the two 12 o'clock gold pyramid along the top line, please magnify the picture of the example submitted by member dsio. By clicking on his picture and hitting the command button and the + (on a MacBook), one can clearly see that the slash markers are all higher on the top, and lower on the bottom than the gold markers mentioned. My example, as well as every picture I submitted has all minute slash markers aligned perfectly at the top and bottom of the square with the gold markers. Since removing all the gold markers during a redial was absolutely necessary, the printing of the minute slashes was difficult to align exactly, without the gold markers on the dial. Since the gold markers are all fixed with posts and holes, once they were put back on after printing, the misalignment appears. Omega would have never shipped original dials with such clear misalignment of minute slashes and markers.

 

As I mentioned, we can not always rely on the original manufactures for verification on correct details concerning the brands vintage pieces. Omega is no exception. Again, this is do to the numerous times the Swiss watch companies ownerships have changed hands since the 1970's. I read with interest Bill"s comment above about having seen a Cosmic square case TDMF in the Omega Museum in Bienne with the bottom row date numerals 12 through 19 inverted. I did a search and came across the wonderful posts from July 2 2016 by member Cristosti with great pictures from his visit to the museum. Low and behold, there was a clear picture of a Cosmic square TDMP with the 12 through 10 inverted. However, under closer examination, it is easy to see that even the watch in the Omega Factory Museum in Bienne was had an incorrectly redone dial. How do I know so clearly? Just look at the blue 4's in the date numerals. The 4 and the 14 have 4 printed with the FLAT TOP, while the 4 of 24 has a POINTED TOP. In easy "tell" that even the Omega Museum is not a reliable source for originality.
Please see picture from Museum below.