Dear All I recently acquired a vintage Omega watch through my work and have been trying to get some information with regards to the model. Initially I searched google images to find something similar but failed miserably, so resorted to taking the back off to see what was inside. I found lots of numbers but after some research I discovered which one was the serial number and through a website I found the model. Or so I thought. Unfortunately the model shown in the picture for my serial number, although almost identical, has a few major flaws. Firstly it has 'Seamaster' written 2 thirds of the way down the dial, mine does not. Also it says it should be gold plated, mine is silver, however the internal workings are a gold colour. It states that the back should screw off, mine popped off. So basically I am more confused now than I was 2 hours ago. One very strange thing with my one is that there are 2 serial numbers present, but one has been hatched out and another visible one above. The hatched out number is 166.0204 and the visible one is 166.0202, and the first hatched number bears no resemblance to my model, but the visible number is very similar. This is a link to what my serial number says it should be: http://www.omegawatches.com/planet-omega/heritage/vintage-omegas/vintage-watches-database?ref=15397 And this is pictures of what I have: https://imgur.com/a/nfDkL Any help you can give me would be hugely appreciated. Thank you in advance Hamish
Welcome to the forum, Hamish! A warm greeting is about all I can give you because I don't follow these. I prefer the older models. I will say that I have never! seen a hash out, cross out, do over on an Omega watch. May I ask where you work?
The number on the inside of the caseback is the case reference number, not the "serial" number. You've correctly identified the model on the Omega Vintage website. To save money during a very tough time, Omega used the same caseback for several models. On your watch, they crossed out the original case reference number and engraved a new one. Many watches on the database that are considered Seamasters also have identical DeVille or no-name models that use the same case. Any screwback waterproof Omega watch could be designated a Seamaster, depending on the country in which is was sold. The serial number would date the watch from the mid-1970's based on the movement serial number of 40 million plus. This is consistent with the listing information you posted. To be honest, I can't tell if the dial on your watch has been repainted or not. Hope this helps, gatorcpa
Thank you very much for your replies. I'll be honest I don't know a huge amount about watches but after looking at this one closely I can see why there are so many collectors as the inner workings are beautiful. So would I be right in thinking that I may never be able to pin it down to an exact model? I also assume that any changes to the watch would affect the value considerably. I'm also now struggling to get the back cover back on! I don't want to break anything by forcing it, so any tips would be handy there. Oh and I am a freelance Asbestos Consultant currently working in London.
You've done that in your first post. The Omega Vintage Database is far from complete. Not all variations that exist are noted there. The only question in my mind is whether the dial is original or not. For a watch like yours, having a redone dial affects the value, but not too much. Unfortunately, this isn't a particularly collectible model to begin with. gatorcpa
Thanks for the info gatorcpa. My confusion lies in the fact that the model my case number says does not match my actual watch, i.e gold-plated (case appears to be steel), screw-in case back (mine popped off), silver or champagne dial (mine is slate colour, dark grey/blue) and no Seamaster written on the dial. The dial upon close inspection (with a loupe) appears original with no sign of tampering whatsoever, but then again I am no expert. Could mine vary from the model shown for that case number that much? Sorry, these are probably silly questions but I really have no idea.
Ok, so I have a 1972 Seamaster. My next question is, can I get the glass replaced and an original strap, and if so how much would that cost?
Here are the crystal and crown: http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=Ome cs#166.0202&submit=Search I wouldn't waste the time or effort to find a branded watchband. It will cost 5X the cost of a very fine generic and not be any more functional. Hope this helps, gatorcpa
Thank you very much. I have 2 more questions (sorry). Firstly would it be cost effective to replace the front glass and strap? I have no idea if the watch would last a month or a lifetime and no idea of its worth so it may be a false economy. Secondly I am having trouble getting the case back on and don't want to force it and break something. Is it normally hard to push back on or have I broken something already? It seemed to pop off easily enough.
It's probably not necessary to replace the crystal. It doesn't look too bad in the picture. It can easily be polished and most of the scratches removed. You can buy a tube of Polywatch on eBay for under $10. 5g POLYWATCH Watch Plastic Acrylic Crystal Glass Scratch Remover 71114302Purchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network Get some cotton swabs at the drug store and give it a shot. The caseback should pop right on if properly positioned. If you are not sure, take it to a watchmaker or jeweler. They can get it done for you in under a minute. gatorcpa