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  1. MPWATCH Watch Lover Jan 1, 2017

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    Evening,

    Found this piece online and wanted to chat about it's condition, value, and a few questions. I am here to learn first and foremost. Practice makes perfect, and assessing pieces I find interesting seems like a favored exercise by many here on OF. Thank you for any contributions to this thread! I appreciate the communities help and willingness to collaborate.

    Here is this Omega Ref. 2951 being offered online. Logo seems off center, "OMEGA" seems off as well. Lume almost makes me think it could be an older redial, but then I look to the sub register and see it hasn't been touched based on its texture. Case seems like it's been through it's paces. Lugs are heavily polished, almost looks like it's exposing the base metal below the plating. What tell tails do you guys look for to know if the piece is GF or not? (Aside from obvious hallmarks, 10k-18k markings). Does the "-1" refer to a difference in bezel or lug design? Is this the proper crown? Is there a dating technique with crowns? I am here to learn, criticism is welcome & please do not feel responsible for more than one answer! I am researching as I go, but hearing answers from the community makes my findings that much more detailed.

    Wishing the entire OF community a very safe and successful 2017,

    Thomas
     
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  2. gemini4 Hoarder Of Speed et alia Jan 1, 2017

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    Don't know much about this reference however it's the same caliber and era as the Ranchero, 2990-1. The lack of Swiss or Swiss Made under the 6 could be indicative of a redial.
     
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  3. GuiltyBoomerang Jan 1, 2017

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    Omega text is off centre, as is the logo, so definite redial. Edges have been polished to death. Can't tell with the crown, but its not quite sitting flush with the case, which leads me to believe that it is an incorrect replacement, or the stem was replaced and not cut to size. The caseback markings of
    'Carrure Lunette Plaque Or L 20 Microns' indicate the case is gold plated to a thickness of 20 microns. This generally tends to be 9-10k if it not marked on the case. The case references of these earlier Omegas is based on the type of case and movement.
     
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  4. Jwit Not a doctor, but plays one on ΩF Jan 1, 2017

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    My "eyes in training" picked up these things....

    -OMEGA looks very odd and uneven. Especially the spacing between EGA and the alignment of Omega and the logo(this isn't a wonky star Connie)
    -no Swiss or Swiss Made or anything of the sort
    -the hash marks on the subdial are inconsistent with their thicknesses
    This gets a redial vote from me.
    -Additionally the inside of the loops of the 9 and 2(in 12) look odd... almost as if they were glued back on and the excess glue dried up in there.

    Also the edges of the case where the case back threads on look chipped/corroded in some spots. Not to mentionthe lugs are polished to death.

    For the right price I would go for it as a donor movement if it working/been serviced.
     
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  5. hoipolloi Vintage Omega Connoisseur Jan 1, 2017

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    20170101_195539.jpg

    Something missing here?
     
  6. GuiltyBoomerang Jan 1, 2017

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  7. MPWATCH Watch Lover Jan 1, 2017

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    Missing a regulator correct? Would that be difficult to source? This is out of the question for me at this point, just curious!

    Thank you for all contributions made, it is greatly appreciated.

    Best,

    Thomas
     
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  8. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 2, 2017

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    Regulator is discontinued, so unless you find one on the open market, you would have to get one from a donor movement.

    Note that all that is required to have the watch function is there, it's just the pointer that's missing.

    Cheers, Al
     
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  9. MPWATCH Watch Lover Jan 2, 2017

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    I see, thank you for the additional detail on the missing regulator Al. Wonder why it was removed...What changes about the movement now that it is lacking the pointer?

    Happy New Year!

    Thomas
     
  10. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 2, 2017

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    It's not "correct" as it should have a pointer on the end, but it will still work fine. So functionally it's not a problem at all, as you can just move the regular pins directly to adjust the rate, it just looks odd without it.

    Cheers, Al
     
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  11. DON Jan 2, 2017

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    I would buy it for the movement and toss the case. Replacing the missing regulator not a problem

    DON
     
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