Hi All

I am currently rebuilding this movement and have a couple questions;

1. Barrel Slip Ring....thin strip of spring metal inside barrel....why is it there? And where does the braking grease go? On barrel wall or inside the slip ring? Or both?

2. Winding gear #1464 for auto device. Is it possible to disassemble it without the 'correct' Omega tool? If so, how? And what is it's proper lubrication once disassembled?

3. Rotor axle bushing....is this still available?

Any help greatly appreciated
Cheers

 

Here already some info about the barrel

 

hello

The mainspring has a safety not to break when the watch is fully wound up. In reality you can wind it endlessly (that's what a rotor does actually). On a mechanical watch you would feel when the watch is wound up but there's not automatic device to wind it more.
2/ it's the reveser wheel. As far as I remember you just need a scredriver of the appropriate size. DIsmantling the automatic device is not very useful if you clean it well (some won't agree). I lub it with d5 (some won't agree too)
3/ the rotor post itself can't be removed easily. the post goes directly in the bridge. If you have some wobbly weight, it's probably the bridge hole that is too wide as brass is softer than steel.

 

Since some answers given are a mess, I'll hep clarify...

Remove this ring, lubricate the barrel wall with braking grease as normal, and install a new mainspring.

Can be done, but it's not easy. Teeth on the pinions can be damaged, but I've done this by inserting the wheel into block of lead to hold one side while turning the other. I use HP1300 rather than D5 (I don't use natural oils as the performance long term is not as good). All the contact surfaces should be lubricated lightly.

No, the new pinion is not available. It's not really just a bushing, because like the Cal. 55X and 56X series, the "bushing" also includes the pinion that drives the automatic winding. The 1010 series it's just a straight bushing, so even though those are available even they were not it would be easy to turn one on a lathe, but not for the 1000 series. The axle is available, but it's not typically worn so I doubt that would help. Omega does still sell the entire rotor, but that's not cheap. Note that even if you buy the new rotor, the pinion for the axle is typically undersized and has to be reamed up to fit the axle.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Al

 

I didn't undesrtand well for the spring hence my explanation. For these movement it's easier to find an old one on ebay. If you need a weight I should have some + many parts
You meant disassembly of the 1464 itself or the auto device? the part no.. when you move the bigger wheel of the auto bloc (when removed) you can esily feel if the movement is not "fluid". if it's not probably a damaged tooth or a bent wheel. NB : the bigger wheel only moves in one direction as it's after the wig wag wheel.
note that there have been to version of the auto bloc. the older is with a brass (1437) wheel, and the other with a steel wheel. If you use a steel wheel the part 1464 needs to be replaced too.
details of the steel post and brass plate, direction of the auto bloc wheel

 

Thanks for all the replies

Archer,

So what you are saying is ditch the slip ring. But what was it's original purpose? And why is it no longer needed?

The winding gear from the movement I am working on has worn pivots. I have another from a donor movement that has good pivots but corrosion on the 'bolt' that screws the assembly together. So the goal was to swap the 'bolts' to create a good winding gear. I saw your post with the pic of a lead block to hold the underside which is a great idea. However I do not possess the special omega tool with 2 prongs that fit into the slots on the 'bolt'. Is there a way to unscrew it without this tool? Once disassembled, what is the correct lubrication? Epilame the innards and 9010 for the pivots of the tiny reversing wheels? I assume the HP1300 you suggested is for the winding gear pivots, not the tiny reversers inside?

I was afraid the rotor bushing was no longer available. Thanks for the explanation.

 

You appear to be showing parts for a 1010/1020 series automatic. These are not the same as the 1002 automatic parts. The axle is in the bridge on the 1002, not on the rotor as in your photos.

 

The original purpose was outlined in the documentation above that someone posted from the tech guide. The slip ring is not needed - you can keep it if you wish or follow my instructions - it's up to you.

Making a tool to unscrew the bolt is not difficult - are you a watchmaker or just someone who tinkers with watches on the side?

I use HP1300 - again if you disagree wand want to use what you feel is best, go ahead with that...

 

Ok. I didn’t absorb from the tech guide it’s purpose was to allow for a dry lubricant. I thought maybe it was to correct a design problem. And of course I would go with the advice of a qualified Omega watchmaker. Just trying to understand what was going on with this movement.

I am a hobbyist not a professional but I do spend a lot of time watchmaking (much to the wife’s dismay). And yes I did make a crude tool for this job but before using it I wanted to make sure there wasn’t a simpler more elegant way of accomplishing the task.

I think my questions re lubrication were misunderstood. I don’t disagree with you I just wasn’t clear. I honestly thought you were talking about HP1300 for the winding gear pivots because the inner workings of all the reversing gears I have serviced so far from other manufacturers have required 9010. Again I was just trying to clarify.

There is a lot I am yet to learn in watchmaking. But the one lesson I have learned (the hard way) is that it is imperative to fully understand the what, why and how of your movement before you pick up a tool.

 

Omega currently recommends using V105 on these wheels, so that is another alternative you can use if you have access to it. If not a substitute can be made with 9010 and solvent in a solution.

Cheers, Al

 

On the entire wheel? Or just on it's inner workings?

 

You dip the entire wheel in it, just like you treat modern reversing wheels.