- Posts
- 443
- Likes
- 813
sathomasga
·The Zodiac Ref. 691 reissue released in September ticks all of my boxes: small, vintage-y, no-date, and manual wind (for which I can even forgive the screw-down crown). Seeing it for sale at 35% off from Windup (still available as of this posting) broke down all my resistance. When the watch arrived, however, my first reaction was disappointment. I thought the movement was broken, and I'd have to deal with getting a replacement. Fortunately, after more careful examination and research, I think the watch is working as intended. It's just a little ... weird.
1. Even though the watch lacks a date complication, its STP ST1-21M movement includes a date function. When the stem is in the quick-set position, you can clearly hear and feel the date wheel clicking over as you rotate the crown. A ghost date position doesn't really bother me, but it seems unexpected on a $1.7K watch, except ...
2. There is no ghost date position. The first stem position, i.e. the winding position, is also the quick-set date position. Turn the crown clockwise and it winds the mainspring; turn it counter-clockwise and it advances the invisible date wheel. Weird, and definitely not normal for the ST1-21M. Presumably Zodiac had the set bridge altered to convert the stem from 3 positions to 2, and this behavior is the result.
3. There is no winding stop. Though the watch is strictly manually wound, it winds like an automatic: you can keep turning the crown forever. The technical reference's schematic and oiling guide does not break out the barrel, arbor, and mainspring but only shows a balance complete. Sure enough, the reference for the ST1-21 automatic version lists the exact same part number. So this movement really embodies the oft-repeated anecdote that an automatic watch can be converted to manual wind just by removing the automatic works. That seems to be all that STP did.
The marketing material for the watch suggests Cameron Barr and Craft + Tailored really pushed both Zodiac and STP to be true to the vintage aesthetic. I'd say the reality is that STP did as little as possible to quiet them.
Regardless of these quirks, the watch is just about perfect for me. Great size, lovely design, wonderful bracelet, etc. So please don't take this post as a complaint; I'm extremely happy with the new early Christmas present.
1. Even though the watch lacks a date complication, its STP ST1-21M movement includes a date function. When the stem is in the quick-set position, you can clearly hear and feel the date wheel clicking over as you rotate the crown. A ghost date position doesn't really bother me, but it seems unexpected on a $1.7K watch, except ...
2. There is no ghost date position. The first stem position, i.e. the winding position, is also the quick-set date position. Turn the crown clockwise and it winds the mainspring; turn it counter-clockwise and it advances the invisible date wheel. Weird, and definitely not normal for the ST1-21M. Presumably Zodiac had the set bridge altered to convert the stem from 3 positions to 2, and this behavior is the result.
3. There is no winding stop. Though the watch is strictly manually wound, it winds like an automatic: you can keep turning the crown forever. The technical reference's schematic and oiling guide does not break out the barrel, arbor, and mainspring but only shows a balance complete. Sure enough, the reference for the ST1-21 automatic version lists the exact same part number. So this movement really embodies the oft-repeated anecdote that an automatic watch can be converted to manual wind just by removing the automatic works. That seems to be all that STP did.
The marketing material for the watch suggests Cameron Barr and Craft + Tailored really pushed both Zodiac and STP to be true to the vintage aesthetic. I'd say the reality is that STP did as little as possible to quiet them.
Regardless of these quirks, the watch is just about perfect for me. Great size, lovely design, wonderful bracelet, etc. So please don't take this post as a complaint; I'm extremely happy with the new early Christmas present.
