Hi to all,

I've come across a NOS Speedmaster Professional from mid 90's in a former Omega AD (from the days when lot's of stores sold Omega). The watch is with a price tag of 3.800 €, with box and papers.

My question is: in you opinion is better to go for a new one (SRP of 4.400 € with all the bells and whistles) or for this, let's say vintage one? Thanks in advance.

Regards,

João

 

1990s isn't vintage

There are lots of things to consider

If it really is NOS from the 1990s then it will 100% need a full service. Budget $ 300-$600 That will wipe out any savings over new. So if you are looking at this from a pure cost savings, there isn't one. The bells and whistle do nothing for me (except take up space in my condo) YMMV with this.

However, if this is a 3590 tritium dial Speedmaster with a nice patina, then it changes the valuation. While not vintage it certainly commands a premium over an equivalent luminova Speedmaster. And if it is a truly NOS tritium dial model then I would say there is a significant premium.

I keep emphasizing "truly NOS" because most aren't even when people say they are

 

As above, but if it has the tritium then I would go for that one because it will age nicely. The NOS thing is not important because as soon as you wear it then it is no longer NOS and not worth a premium, its just a new looking watch. Thus I would not pay a huge premium unless you plan on never wearing it,on the otherhand, if that is the case, why bother buying it in the first place.

 

That was my first tought...

I'll go to the store again and check if he as the T's on the dial

Thanks for the info and help!

 

The only plus (for me) of the NOS factor is the condition (aesthetically speaking) of the watch. The downside is how much you will have to pay to service the watch...

Regards,

João

 

Try to ask to let you take pics and post here

 

DIBS (interested) if you decide to not go for the old NOS watch.

But: If I where you I‘d go for the old one, should it really turn out to be a tritium dial. The aging tritium will make it even nicer appearance wise over time.

As others said, It won’t be NOS anymore if you wear it, but you‘ll have the benefit of a like new neo-vintage watch and you can add your own history to it by the scratches and dings it will collect over time.

 

I am not one to horde watches that I will never wear. I am not a collector in that I have tons of pieces etc.

HOWEVER

If this is truly a NOS tritium dial 3590 speedmaster (again BIG IF) I would not be so quick to rip off the stickers and wear it.

I think it can have some significant collector value over a similar piece that has been worn.

 

I see your point, but owning a Speedmaster without wearing it, would be cruel

 

I would argue that service is not necessarily critical, especially on a watch that's never been opened. I have 4 NOS watches that are 15-25 years old (3 Omegas, 1 Rolex). All perform beautifully on the Timegrapher: amplitude > 300, 0.0 or 0.1 beat error, timing within 3 s/d. I understand this opinion is heresy, but I wanted to get it out there to counter the chorus of "service required."

 

Nice info. Nevertheless i think that would be great to hear what a experienced watchmaker like @Archer as to say about it.

 

If you want to prevent damage to moving parts in the movement, and ensure that the watch is water resistant, then service would be my recommendation.

The observations made by wsfarrell don't surprise me at all - unlike older natural oils that would gum up and cause problems with balance amplitude, or even stop the watch, modern synthetic oils just dry up and disappear. This means that balance amplitude and timing are not affected at first, but now you have no lubrication barrier protecting pivots from wear on the wheels, etc. If you define the need for service as "when the watch stops performing properly" then sure his experience meets that standard just fine. But certainly that doesn't mean the parts will not be damaged by continuing to run the watch - there are no magic oils that last 15-25 years - they simply do not exist.

In the end when to service is not a simple and straightforward question as I have been writing on watch forums for years now.

Cheers, Al

 

If you're going to wear it, I don't see the benefit of buying NOS unless money is no object and if that's the case I'd buy a 321.

 

If it is a tritium one, I would go for the 1990 one.

 

tritium is always to prefer... connaisseurs know why

a nos one at that price would be a good purchase, as long it stays nos ... and NO when u put it on your wrist it's not NOS anymore

 

I prefer tritium, always.

 

I see you point, but i'm not buying as a investment, i'm buying to have and use a moonwatch. My only question was: a new one or a NOS from the 90's? Due to all the valuable input that as been given by all of you, the answer starts to be cristal clear

 

Have you actually confirmed yet which 1990s model this is? If a late 1990s 3570 with SL dial then there is literally no advantage in buying it instead of a brand new one, quite the opposite unless the price is considerably lower. If a tritium dial model that is different but so you haven't said which it is.

 

I'll have to go there again and check if it has Tritium or SL.

 

I love the ‘90’s tritium Speedy’s - I think they’re a great buy. If it’s not tritium, than I would buy new and get the warranty.

That said, if it is tritium, I wouldn’t pay a massive premium for NOS if you’re planning on wearing - there are some dealers here in the Sales Section who I’m sure can source you a nice one if that’s the direction you decide to take, so I wouldn’t limit your decision to these two examples entirely.