So I have always admired the Speedy from afar. I love the history and tradition. I’ve tried on new ones and thought they were nice.

Then I recently tried on a not-for-sale vintage model from 1968. And I loved it. So now I need to figure out which watch to buy for what money. And thus the madness begins. I’ve been all over Speedmaster 101. And now here. But with every watch in different condition, this is not going to be simple. Alas I’m not complaining or anything—maybe I’m just warning you in advance of forthcoming dumb posts. Anyway, thanks for a great forum.

ejj

 

Welcome!

There are a lot of VERY knowledgeable people here to answer probably all of your questions. Use the search function as often as possible. The question you want to post has most likely already been answered in great detail before .

Hope you find the watch you’re looking for sooner than later!

 

This was the fruits of my quest for my first Speedy Pro. My “Birthyear” 145.022-76

Welcome! We have all been there. Ask away any questions you might have.

What’s your price range and what are you looking for.

Please feel free to reach out to me on 145.022 models.

 

Welcome aboard the crazy train. Lots of fun and lots to learn. I definitely would recommend narrowing down your Speedmaster hunt to a reference or at least some features you may like (pre-moon, AML, stepped dial, pumpkin patina, long S and R, etc).

Obviously your budget will be a limiting factor, but don’t take that as an insult or a shame. It can add to the challenge and the fun. I personally love the 80s long S and R speedmasters with rich patina for a tip toe into vintage. Stepped dials also add a large dimension for a small price increase.

Here is a pair of 145.022-69 to add some further encouragement

 

-68, how not to love it ?



Regarding your thoughts, at the end it’s simple. Buy the best quality you can based on the budget you can afford.

 

Gorgeous

 

There is definitely a place for every reference of Speedy. Figure out what you want : AML or printed logo, long or short indices, professional or non professional etc. Figure that out, then think about budget : IMHO, in the long run the secret is to fork out a bit more cash than you are comfortable to pay for a top condition one, than to save a few coins on an average to poor one (once you have done this, and suddenly you see a top condition one for grabs for a bit more than you paid, that’s when regrets kick in -> oh golly ... for an extra xx coins I could have had that instead ). Naturally there are also bargains to be had, but it’s important to get to know the difference between an overpriced crappy one, a fair priced top condition one, and an outright bargain (where there may be an acceptable compromise between price and condition)


Because pictures help : here is another -68, but of the 012 kind...

 

That is a handsome watch. That's pretty much what I'd like. Step dial is a must. I'm not too picky on the case/bezel/AML, but the dial/hands need to have some patina without looking like crap. I have seen many where the hands and dial don't match--in particular the hands don't seem right.

 

Sounds like a perfect -69 to me.

One I recently sold

 

Well, if we're posting our faves...this is mine. Straight-writing 69 all the way!

 

What a beautiful example. I found that listing. Great job!

I'm a teacher, father of two girls. So I'm more in in the USD 5-7K range.

 

For 5k I would say you can find yourself a nice and proper -69 with nice lume, and all correct parts, without bracelet. And for 7k a 145.012 -68 with a gorgeous deep black dial and beautifully patinated lume, equally without bracelet. If you look around, and know when you see the one to go for. Have a look on the Private Watches for Sale here, there are some good ones on offer, and other members here will help you with your choice.

 

Thanks for your help! I'm in no need of a bracelet or box, so this helps a lot.

 

Don’t get tooooo set on everything being matchy matchy. Perfectly matching dial and hand lume is typically a red flag for a relume.

That’s not to say a relume is horrible. Some people prefer a professionally relumed piece so the hands and patina work well together. There may also be some preservation benefits I believe for flaking lume. The only reason I mention it, is to be cautious. You don’t want to spend top dollar on a piece described as “original” that has been relumed.

I’m trying to build a bit of a picture database for lume variation - there’s a lot out there.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/speedmaster-hand-lume-color-variation-picture-database.91764/

 

Well, I haven’t got to the 60s speedy’s land. The closest thing I got is the tritium dial 1997 transitional 3572.50, with a gilt plated cal 863 movement. I got it for about half of $5k just a year ago, thought it was a good deal. I say if you just like the look with patina, the 90s tritium dial ones are another option, and it’s much cheaper and can be found in very good conditions.

Just some food for thoughts .

 

Welcome to this mad world. I’ve been stuck in this world for some time and soon to be frustrated - just made an offer on a house - this means no Speedy (or any other watch) until the kids are off to uni - my wife isn’t even pregnant (yet).

 

Speedmasters are awesome. Not a birthyear speedy. But it is great. ‘91
Hard to find the right picture to show it off.

 

Oh, well, here I am wearing my new to me Speedy, I've been lusting after them for about 45 years........I feel quite chuffed with myself when I am wearing it!! Its a beautiful watch and has some real style, very comfortable.
Mine is from 1999.

 

Ok, chuffed. Gonna have to remember that one.