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  1. SectionEht May 27, 2012

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    Hello,

    I've been wanting to pick up a vintage Omega for some time now and today was the day! The guys from Hodinkee had a pop-up sale in San Francisco and I couldn't refuse. This particular piece came from Matthew Bain. I'm a total newbie when it comes to vintage watches and would love any info that anyone could provide. It has a case diameter of 36.6mm, the movement is hand wound and beats at 18,000 bph. I would love to know the approx year it was made, what movement it may have in it, what kind of power reserve I can expect, if everything on it looks original, and whatever other info you guys might have. Also, what kind of accuracy can I expect from a vintage piece like this? Sorry about the iPhone pics, it is all I have at this time. I know can have a lot more info if i get the caseback off but I don't feel comfortable doing that on my own. Thanks in advance for the info!
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    alam likes this.
  2. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member May 27, 2012

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    A few things I can tell you from the photographs:

    1. To get the most accurate information, you are going to have to take the watch to a watchmaker and record any information from the inside cover of the case and the serial number from the movement. This will help identify the watch more precisely.

    http://www.omegawatches.com/spirit/history/vintage-omegas

    2. From the size of the case and general look of the watch, I would say it's a 1940's model. Probably has the famous 30mm movement inside, which is considered one of Omega's best manual wind movements.

    3. The hour and minute hands look correct for the period. However, I think the sub-seconds hand has been replaced at some point. Generally, these match the main hands in color with the exception of certain certified chronometer models (which this example is not).

    4. The dial looks too clean to be original. I'd say that it has been recently repainted. This looks to be very high quality work, perhaps done by an Omega contractor.

    Hope this helps,
    gatorcpa
     
  3. ulackfocus May 27, 2012

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    I'll second what gator said - probably a late 40's model. When you get the back cover popped off the numbers will tell us all the info needed.
     
  4. kyle L Grasshopper Staff Member May 27, 2012

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    Yeah, probably has a 267 in it or a similar caliber. Even though the dial is very clean, my gut says it's original. It is possible that it's a redial though, a good one done during the same time as the case polishing. Crown is also replaced. Here's a similar one:

    [​IMG]
     
  5. SectionEht May 27, 2012

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    Thanks gentlemen for the quick and detailed responses! I really appreciate the info. Is removing and replacing the snap on back difficult? Do I just need to purchase a case back knife? When removing the back, is it a twisting motion with the knife or more of just slipping the knife in the gap? Lastly, how do I know how to align the back when snapping it back on? Thanks again to all of the help!
     
  6. smithrjd May 27, 2012

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    Very nice watch. It is a classic. I would think you might be better off going to a real wacthmaker to get the back removed. It is really easy to scratch and mar the case and case back. I know.... I would guess that for a couple of bucks you would not risk that.
     
  7. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member May 28, 2012

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    Very elegant design, especially on that honey brown strap
     
  8. Steve May 28, 2012

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    Nice looking watch, welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:
     
  9. SectionEht May 28, 2012

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    Thanks everyone for all of the help so far!
    Adding a photo of inside the caseback and movement:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Any additional info would be much appreciated!
     
  10. ulackfocus May 28, 2012

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    The serial number puts it at 1945.
     
  11. SectionEht May 30, 2012

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    Thanks again all for the helpful info. Had a bit of a scary moment when I noticed that the movement stopped working when I snapped the back on. Pulled the back off, gave the balance wheel a few gentle puffs from a can of compressed air and it started ticking again! Whew, scary times. Since then popped the back off and back to adjust the regulation a few times and have it to about +10 sec/day. I'm not going to press my luck and tinker with it anymore.

    I'm getting 36 hrs of power reserve out of the movement, is this about right?

    No interest in selling but what would you guess is the approx value of the watch?
     
  12. MSNWatch Vintage Omega Aficionado Staff Member May 30, 2012

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    Compressed air not a good idea - you could damage some of the more sensitive parts but also you could just be pushing the dust deeper down into other parts of the movement.
    Value - $250-300 with refinished dial, add another $100-150 or so if the dial is original.
     
  13. alam May 30, 2012

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    Nice piece.
     
  14. SectionEht May 30, 2012

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    Good to know for the future on compressed air. I did be careful not to hit it too hard and at an angle just to give the balance wheel a push but I'll stay away from it altogether in the future.

    I hope your valuation is a bit low because I did pay significantly more for this piece. It did come from a very reputable dealer rather than a private seller and was just serviced in the past few months. I have been browsing eBay and other vintage dealer websites and have been seeing other 1940s pieces with the larger case at significantly higher prices in much worse condition than mine.
     
  15. MSNWatch Vintage Omega Aficionado Staff Member May 30, 2012

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    Hmmm, if you had to do the compressed air treatment, one wonders what kind of service (if any) was actually performed a few months ago. If a premium price was paid for this piece with the claim that it was recently serviced, you should not have had this sort of problem with the watch. FYI, dealers generally mark up the price of a vintage watch at least 200-300% from the price of acquisition - the price estimate I gave was the likely price it would fetch if put on auction on ebay. That is likely also the maximum price Matthew Bain would be willing to pay for the watch.
     
  16. SectionEht May 31, 2012

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    I think the watch stopping had something to do with the shock of closing the caseback but of course I don't know that for sure. Thanks for clarification of the valuation, it makes more sense to me now. I know I paid a premium purchasing the watch from a dealer rather than sourcing it on my own through eBay or one of the sale forums. I've been wanting to buy a vintage Omega for some time now but have been hesitant because it seemed so overwhelming for a newbie. I am happy that a got a very good condition watch with original parts and a well running movement without the hassle and possible heartache of getting something I wasn't expecting. For my next one, I just might brave eBay after spending some time here learning.
     
  17. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member May 31, 2012

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    Well thats just it really, the dealer is charging you for his expertise in procurement and assuming the risk, if it turns out he buys a dud, he has to junk it at assume the loss.