Looking for my next purchase for a nice everyday business watch (must have date) as an alternative to my Orbis Deville Hour Vision and AT 15000 Gauss, to be used more with grey and black suit & tie, but also for possible casual wear during the weekend. Only Rolex´s sports watch range has any appeal to me so Oyster Perpetual, Datejust etc. were not considered, Explorer 1 discarded due to the date requirement (though would be a strong option)

I am looking at these two alternatives (small price difference, price not a key factor).

Omega Globemaster White/Silver dial with strap:

Or the IWC Ref 3299 40mm with ETA movement (not sure if I would go for the standard or red gold indices, but probably white dial)





Leaning to the GlobeMaster based on the in-house movement, the fun of having my first Metas card, but I love the IWC Gerald Genta design and I am an Engineer. It would also be my first IWC. Keen to find out what you folks might choose and why. Cheers.

Current collection context below:
Omegas - AT 15000 Gauss, Orbis Deville Hour Vision, Speedy XI-45 Lte, Omega SM 300 MCoaxial, YG Tresor; Rolex - Polar Explorer II 216570; JLC - Reverso Ultra-thin DuoFace.

PS. Kudos to Wound for Life, Monchrome and Deployant for the lovely fotos above.

 

Both great, like the IWC better

 

As to why: more Original design. The genta connection. I don't like the bezel on the globe master either

 

Between those two, I'd pick the GlobeMaster. The GM has more of a business look, the IWC more of casual/sport look.

 

IWC has the one thing annoying for me. That is the way the bracelet connects to the watch. You can not wear just any leather due to the design and that's a deal breaker.

 

Most definitely the GlobeMaster. For the leather strap and it is a more business/dress suit looking watch then the IWC. The IWC has to much of an "angular" look to it giving it a casual/sports style look, more suited for leisure time.

 

in the GM i dislike the fact that the dial is so recessed (without having a rehaut) and that bezel is without doubt in DJ terretory

 

Dat Globemaster is dead sexy, the IWC is too sporty for work.

 

Thanks! Great input from all.

One of my main reasons for purchasing the IWC would indeed be the integrated bracelet and case design so typical of Genta, which I think gives the Ingenieur a thin (10mm) more dressy sports watch look. Although I do understand the concerns posted about bracelet swapping for the Ingenieur, I would never wear this IWC on a leather strap. My take is that the Genta inspired bracelet represents at least 40% of the Ingenieur watch design appeal

Funny thing is that in contrast with the Ingenieur, I would probably never wear the Globemaster on a SS bracelet, only on the dark grey leather. On the internet photos I have seen I have found the Globemaster white dial too "cold" with the SS bracelet. Note I have not yet actually seen the GlobeMaster live, as none have arrived at my local boutique, so although the fluted bezel does sometimes look spectacular and refined, in some other internet shots I have seen it looks a bit "tinny" and cheap...I will have to reserve judgement hands-on.

Another point I would like to mention is that in my current collection, I am concerned that my Omega Orbis Hour Vision would cover similar "watch territory" to the proposed leather strapped Globemaster, although the Globemaster for me is a more modern design than the Orbis, even with the Constellation heritage/DNA. @dsio raised any interesting point in his post: I was not aware that there was a Genta design influence in the Globemaster bezel as well. So I suppose this is a Genta versus Genta design contest after all

Perhaps the Ingenieur could fill in a "more casual business watch" gap I currently have between my more sporty watches and the more formal members of my collection (Orbis Hour Vision, Reverso, Tresor)? When I look at the photo below the Ingenieur seems to work Ok with business attire, although this the black dial option, and I do prefer the white dial. Perhaps the white dial with gold indices can dress up the Ingenieur?



Some other options I had considered would be a Grand Seiko Snowflake or a Grand Seiko champagne dial GMT Spring Drive (too thick?) Unfortunately I do not have any nearby Grand Seiko representation where I am currently based, so I would be quite insecure about purchasing Grand Seiko right now.
(FratelloWatches photo)

PS. interesting that none of the posts so far have mentioned the movement (in-house Master Co-Axial versus ETA/Sellita) as a factor.

PPS. After sending the first post on this thread, I was left feeling extremely guilty that I had rudely omitted my Breitling SuperOcean Heritage 42mm out of my collection info above. I had to calm the watch down when I got home, take it out of the safe and swear that as my first "Swiss Made" purchase it would not be flipped any time soon and kept for sentimental value So although the photo below has nothing to do with this thread...please forgive me...I just promised to my rather depressed Breitling that I would post a "solo" picture on the forum, showing it off with its brand new shoes...a blue Breitling OEM leather strap I purchased two weeks ago. Cheers!

 

I really wanted to like the IWC but the addition of the crown guards killed it for me. Turned from a classic to a sport watch in my eyes. That second picture of the GM looks great and it gets my vote.

 

I fully agree with you about the second Globemaster picture as well as the crown guards on the Ingenieur...certainly not my favourite part of the IWC design, although I will have to try hands-on before I make a final judgement.

Perhaps IWC did not want the 40mm Ingenieur to look too much like an "entry level" AP Royal Oak and implemented the crown guards to increase the Ingenieur´s tool watch credentials and give it a stronger design identity?

 

You already own Tresor, Globemaster is taking the same niche.
As for IWC, I can't get acquainted to their prices.

GS is great watch, I own one. The problem that it is very hard sale, in case you'll want to get rid of it down the road.

 

Well, I have a different suggestion:



Completely different feel and look compared to your other watches, fills out the business-to-casual niche perfectly and your Breitling won't get jealous

Both your Orbis Deville Hour Vision and AT 15000 Gauss are quite beefy, and having three strap options available to this (a milanese bracelet, cordovan leather and a few NATOs) makes this truly diverse

 

I'm surely biased, but I have to say that honestly you're not comparing apples to apples here. The IWC ingenieur is a beautifully crafted design by Gerald Genta, but not something I could see myself wearing. The angular case seems to lack the refinement of the type of timepiece you are looking for, and it is something that lends itself to being more sporty rather than dressy. The Globemaster is beautifully stunning in person (yes I have seen it). It is a timepiece that transitions between dress an casual attire so well, while still providing refinement, sophistication and functionally when you need it. Most importantly, the movement is where the Globemaster takes the cake. The movement performance you are used to with your other Omega timepieces is most likely deadly accurate. There are few timepieces that can maintain consistent levels of accuracy like an in-house Omega movement with anti-magnetic protection. I've seen it first hand and those movements perform beautifully. The METAS certification takes this precision to a whole other level. I won't bore you with the details, but it is truly remarkable (check out the Omega website if your curious what their testing). For slightly more money than the IWC, you will be getting a gorgeous timepiece on a strap, in-house movement with 15k gauss protection (perfect for engineers), METAS certified Master Chronometer, 4 year warranty all for under 7k. It seems like a no brainier to me. I guarantee you will not regret adding the Globemaster to your collection.

 

Thanks @rainman_333 for your detailed post.

I am in agreement with your perception that the IWC 3239 is a more sporty option compared to the Globemaster. I already have two more "dressy" Omegas in the Orbis Hour Vision and Tresor and sporty/dressy "AT 15000 Gauss" I have put on a tan leather strap. So I suppose I will have to choose whether I want more elegant sports watch with the IWC 3239 than can also be used with business attire or a more dressy watch in the Globemaster, perhaps less versatile?

The video below is of the IWC 3239-06 option (white dial + red gold indices), which I am most interested in.

I am really most smitten with the Globemaster shown on the posted pictures above with the leather strap and it does not look at all sporty in that configuration. I have not seen or tried the Omega Globemaster on a bracelet, but I have not been too keen Omega´s bracelets so far. I do find the Genta design to be gorgeous with the integrated bracelet and I am attracted to the thin case (10mm) option on the IWC. Being left-handed I am currently wearing my watches on the right wrist (with the exception of my Speedy XI-45 as I find the chronograph buttons more comfortable to use on the left wrist), so one issue I will have to check out is how comfortable the IWC 3239 crown guards are on the right wrist.

Although I share your admiration for the Omega in-house anti-magnetic movements (I have the new Seamaster 300 as well) and find the Metas card thing to be quite cool, I have found my Rolex Explorer II 216570 to be my most accurate watch (+1s) and the Breitling SuperOcean Heritage with an ETA movement to be quite accurate (-2s). All my current watches (Rolex, Omega, Breitling, JLC) perform better than COSC in the -2s + 3s range. I have ready some rather critical comments for the IWC in-house movements in terms of accuracy and reliability so having a trusty Sellita based clone of the ETA 2892/A2 in the Ingenieur is actually one of the reasons I am attracted to the new 3239 reference and it does make the warranty issue less of a concern in the long term if I were to choose the IWC.


I think this will be really more of a love at first sight / decision made after seeing both live: design, finish, wrist comfort etc. Although pricing is not a key factor my lovely Omega Boutique in Rio does offer superb pricing in local currency so I might have the absurd situation of the Globemaster (US$7.7K) actually being cheaper that the IWC 3239 (US$6.6k) in local currency, in which case if I do end up buying the IWC it will certainly be a "pure passion" purchase and not at all rational.

 

@ConElPueblo Nomos is indeed a great option and I have been following with interest their new DUW 3001 movement in the Minimatik. The problem is I am currently located in Rio, Brazil where you have zero Nomos representation / technical support, so right now I don´t feel comfortable purchasing a Nomos or a Grand Seiko for similar reasons. I might be relocating to Canada or UK in 2018, so both brands will then certainly be on my radar if that does happen. Cheers

 

1 to 1 comparison - hands down the GM.

However, given your current collection, the Ingy makes a lot of sense.

Good luck!

 

IWC with an cheap sw-200 movement for $6.6k .....hell no, not working for me.
I want a watch beautiful on the inside and outside.

 

Fair enough, and I don´t think this will make any difference to your opinion but the movement is actually a base SW-300. I do agree that the Globemaster caseback with the medallion looks very pretty, but as I mentioned above I really have not observed a huge amount of performance gain "in-house" versus "outsourced ETA".

Of course when you go up to the next haute hologerie levels the actual finishing of the movement (some of it hand finished) is part of the artistry and motivation for the purchase premium. Personally I just don´t see a significant plus point with the industry automated finishing you will find in current Omegas to justify a purchase decision on finishing per se when evaluating an Omega vs IWC with a non in-house movement, which will not be on display due to the anti-magnetic Faraday cage.

I already have three Omega anti-magnetic movements in my collection (I will admit that the Tresor 8511 is quite interesting and unique through the caseback) + 1 Orbis Hour Vision with the 8500, all of them are three handed watches, three with a date complication. I think I am just getting tired of seeing essentially the same co-axial design through the casebacks (Orbis, AT, SM 300) to really get excited about the Globemaster caseback this time round.

Important caveat...if this was my first watch purchasing decision the caseback view on the Globemaster would certainly be a factor. On a more general note I would never choose the Ingy over the Globemaster for my first or only watch purchase, the issue for me is finding which one of the two fits better within the overall collection context as @cuts33 mentioned in his post.

Second caveat...I would be interested in purchasing a new Speedmaster Master Chronometer, based on the movement, as soon as Omega put into a Speedy 57 case...it would be my the first example of an extreme anti-magnetic chronograph movement and my other Speedy, the XI-45, does not have the column wheel and other fancy stuff you find in the 9300 + you get the cool factor of the personal METAS card. Cheers.