Need help in identifying this watch!

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Good morning to you all! I recently acquired this vintage omega, and the only thing i managed to discover about the model is: this should be an omega jumbo. Problem is: this has a rare movement that does not require a rotor to function. Instead this has little "hammers" that you can hear and feel moving when you move your wrist and they make like a little chime noise. I would love to know the exact reference of this piece, and would also want to buy an original crown, but i'm not sure about the correct diameter of the crown i should get. I also think the back is not original since it doesn't show any serial number and is heavily scratched. IMG_7034.jpg IMG_7033.jpg IMG_7031.jpg If somebody could help me out it would be much appreciated. thanks in advance to everybody who will loose time answering me. Wish you all a great day!
 
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Sounds like you're describing a bumper movement. Pictures of the actual movement, as well as the inside of the caseback, would help 😀
 
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a bumper movement isn’t rare. It’s simply an early type of automatic movement.
The reference number will be inside the caseback. it requires a case knife or other sharp tool Claude as a razor blade to remove. If you’re not experienced doing this it’s worth taking it to a watchmaker to avoid damaging the case.
There’s no reason to think the caseback isn’t original as serial numbers weren’t engraved on the case (not caseback) until the 90’s.

do you have a clearer picture of the dial
 
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The back looks original but the finish of the dial isn't. If it is indeed a bumper it may be a model 2764, that is a press on back bumper model with sub second.
 
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Sounds like you're describing a bumper movement. Pictures of the actual movement, as well as the inside of the caseback, would help 😀
Thanks, i'll try to open it as best as i can and send additional photos of caseback and movement!
 
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Omega jumbo means nothing, reference inside the back, bumper movements produced in large numbers, dial repainted, crown to be seen better. Get it opened - costs near nothing - and take good pictures of the inside.
 
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a bumper movement isn’t rare. It’s simply an early type of automatic movement.
The reference number will be inside the caseback. it requires a case knife or other sharp tool Claude as a razor blade to remove. If you’re not experienced doing this it’s worth taking it to a watchmaker to avoid damaging the case.
There’s no reason to think the caseback isn’t original as serial numbers weren’t engraved on the case (not caseback) until the 90’s.

do you have a clearer picture of the dial
Thank you so much for the explanation, i'm not experienced but i'll try to open it anyway since the case back has been already heavily damaged by old attempts (not done by me)
 
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I'm back with the photos you requested, i hope these help you helping me in identifying what exactly this watch is IMG_7051.jpg IMG_7052.jpg IMG_7053.jpg
 
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As I suspected, its a model 2764 from circa 1954.
 
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With a cal 344 bumper movement and unfortunately a poor redial.
 
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FYI, "a poor redial" means that this dial was repainted at sometime. The letters and markers were redone to a poor standard and are not as originals and show crude spacing and faults. Rarely, a redial can be very good. Unfortunately this will reduce the value of the watch by half.
These old watches are often redone as a consequence of water getting inside. The movement on this one looks like that may have occurred.
 
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With a cal 344 bumper movement and unfortunately a poor redial.
How can you say that? I'm not doubting what you say, just curious on how you can say so. Maybe next time with your information i will be able to spot if a watch has a redial or not
 
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FYI, "a poor redial" means that this dial was repainted at sometime. The letters and markers were redone to a poor standard and are not as originals and show crude spacing and faults. Rarely, a redial can be very good. Unfortunately this will reduce the value of the watch by half.
These old watches are often redone as a consequence of water getting inside. The movement on this one looks like that may have occurred.
That's terrible to hear. I paid 550 euros, which is about 593 US Dollars. I don't think it was so high for a price but knowing that the watch is probably worth less or the same amount is very saddening to me. Could you tell me how you were able to spot the watch has a repainted dial? I'm willing to learn for the next time!
 
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Maybe the letter "A" in Omega is clearly redone, i'm not sure about minute markers
 
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Sure,
I have looked at 100s of these to get to know what's right.
The font in omega is not evenly spaced, it is too thick, the letters are just wrong especially the G and A. There should be tiny serif on the letters. Automatic should be wider than omega by about a letter on each side.
The sub dial cross is too long and I don't think it should touch the six o'clock.
Swiss made or swiss should be at the bottom
The minute markers should be very precise and consistent.
Now that you know the ref #, you can google the image and look at many originals to compare.
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Price you paid was not so bad. I nice clean one would be a little more as this gold furniture on ss with sub second is very desirable. Is quite wearable, just not a collectors piece. Most people outside of this forum wouldn't notice.
 
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How can you say that? I'm not doubting what you say, just curious on how you can say so. Maybe next time with your information i will be able to spot if a watch has a redial or not

Look at each of the letters of the words “Omega Automatic” individually.

They are all of poor quality. The height and width, spacing, individual lines of each letter are all inconsistent. The lines that are meant to be straight are not.
The quality is simply a millions miles away from an original dial.
 
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Now that you made me consider it, i think i won't wear this watch no more. I am not a big collector nor do i have the experience to districate myself in this world yet. Still i don't want to wear a repainted dial. I already have a nice watch from the fifties (i will link a photo) and if this is not original then i prefer to get the money back. What price would you deem adequate in order not to scam other people?
 
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Post on ebay, disclose that the dial has been "refinished" and let the market decide. Take good photos from all sides. Polish the crystal with Polywatch. Wipe off dirt with a soft cloth. Include the ref # and movement pics.
Or try a local buy sell forum. Just disclose what it is.
Collectors won't buy it, but someone such as yourself might like it at 350-400 euro, you never know. They could be happy too as long as they don't come to this forum and ask too many questions.
It's too bad your feelings for the watch have been spoiled. In future we are always happy to vet a prospect BEFORE you buy.
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