Need clarifications and guidance on a Seamaster (601 caliber movement)

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I purchased in my early days (15y ago) an Omega watch and only now came to appreciate watchmaking and wanted to put it back in a great shape.
The watch is likely a ref 135.011 (caliber 601), here are a few pictures:


The watch is not working anymore, and it seems like it has been redialed.
I'm a bit in a pickle now, I have quite some watchmaking tools and saw a couple of videos that make me feel confident about working on it myself.
Furthermore, the value of the watch (especially in these conditions) will not justify a hefty servicing price.

On the other hand, I'm pretty sure it might turn into a disaster.

The watch was bought for cheap and holds no sentimental value.
 
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To be frank, the watch is not in good condition. The dial has been harshly cleaned, the hands are bent and the case is terrible with loss of gold plate in several places. I would not advocate spending a penny on this watch and would say it’s a perfect example to tinker on yourself
 
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To be frank, the watch is not in good condition. The dial has been harshly cleaned, the hands are bent and the case is terrible with loss of gold plate in several places. I would not advocate spending a penny on this watch and would say it’s a perfect example to tinker on yourself
thanks, that was my plan and it's good to see it wasn't a crazy idea.
 
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This seems a lot like my 601 project 😀 They are lovely movements, and mine managed to work perfectly as soon as it was cleaned and given the attention it needed.

I ended up replacing dial + case + crown, and it seems like you've also got a handset to pick up as well. In the end, I am out way more money than it will ever be worth on parts/etc, but it was a lovely experience.

What you'll end up with might not be 'authentic', but it'll be something you can be proud of!

Side note: That is a front-loader 😀 Make sure you're aware of that!
 
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???
Is it not? It looks like it has clamps pulling it to the back of the case? Am I mistaken?
 
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Is it not? It looks like it has clamps pulling it to the back of the case? Am I mistaken?
Ah, I looked closer/zoomed in, it looks like the clamps might be under a 'tab' so it could be removed from the back. If so, disregard the above.

I'm a little sensitive to paying attention to those, the previous watchmaker of my 601 tried to remove a frontloader from the back, and severely damaged the dial.
 
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That is a front-loader
You need a special tool to open the watch through the crystal. Often there will be a number on the back of the case.

I looked at the OP photos again to look for that number and see this is not a front loader. (others are answering at the same time.)

I think what Erich is noting is that the dial is larger than the back opening. So the movement only comes out the front. There is a tension ring under the crystal which holds the dial in place. Sometimes the whole bezel assembly has to be removed. The clamps often come loose or are lost so this adds extra securing.

My recommendation is to get some good (off brand) mechanical watches in tip top shape serviced and keeping time. This way you learn what a working watch is like. If you do not like spending 2 or 3 hundred for a practice watch. This is not the right hobby.

Starting with a non functioning watch, which may have confounded an experienced maker is a recipe for disappointment. Students in watchmaking schools do not start on basket cases. -- that comes later.

Watchmaking can be a rewarding and relaxing way to pass the time. That moment when it comes alive is amazing. It can also be time consuming. Parts are not always easy to find. Older watches from the late 19th and early 20th century had parts what could be made in the shop. After WWII the watches were engineered with high tech alloys and lubricants. Realize many here were attracted to the fact that 1960 watches could be used in extreme environments. Outer space and the moon. What a lot of people do not realize is that deep sea diving is just as expensive and complicated. So the watchmaker is working on the most precise mechanics ever invented.

They were also designed to be serviced frequently when these lubricants needed replenishment. This was a way to keep customers returning to the jewelry store. In the 1960s watches became disposable and were marketed to the baby boom kids as toys. In the 1970s they became quartz and even more disposable. Cheap enough to be given away in boxes of cereal.
 
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You need a special tool to open the watch through the crystal. Often there will be a number on the back of the case.

I looked at the OP photos again to look for that number and see this is not a front loader. (others are answering at the same time.)

I think what Erich is noting is that the dial is larger than the back opening. So the movement only comes out the front. There is a tension ring under the crystal which holds the dial in place. Sometimes the whole bezel assembly has to be removed. The clamps often come loose or are lost so this adds extra securing.

My recommendation is to get some good (off brand) mechanical watches in tip top shape serviced and keeping time. This way you learn what a working watch is like. If you do not like spending 2 or 3 hundred for a practice watch. This is not the right hobby.

Starting with a non functioning watch, which may have confounded an experienced maker is a recipe for disappointment. Students in watchmaking schools do not start on basket cases. -- that comes later.

Watchmaking can be a rewarding and relaxing way to pass the time. That moment when it comes alive is amazing. It can also be time consuming. Parts are not always easy to find. Older watches from the late 19th and early 20th century had parts what could be made in the shop. After WWII the watches were engineered with high tech alloys and lubricants. Realize many here were attracted to the fact that 1960 watches could be used in extreme environments. Outer space and the moon. What a lot of people do not realize is that deep sea diving is just as expensive and complicated. So the watchmaker is working on the most precise mechanics ever invented.

They were also designed to be serviced frequently when these lubricants needed replenishment. This was a way to keep customers returning to the jewelry store. In the 1960s watches became disposable and were marketed to the baby boom kids as toys. In the 1970s they became quartz and even more disposable. Cheap enough to be given away in boxes of cereal.
Ah, so this IS a frontloader? My 601 (which is similar), you have to pull the bezel, not the crystal to get the movement out through the front, so there isn't really a 'tool' for it. I saw the tabs and suspected on the dial, but wasn't sure (since obviously there is no clear scale).
 
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so the adventure begins, I found a few things that might need attention on the watch.
while waiting for some parts, I practiced a bit removing different components and a couple of things stood out, the most notable being the escape wheel stuck.
I checked and it seems the bottom pivot is gone, I'm wondering where one can find good genuine spare parts (or equivalent)? probably a noob question - apologies if that is the case
 
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so the adventure begins, I found a few things that might need attention on the watch.
while waiting for some parts, I practiced a bit removing different components and a couple of things stood out, the most notable being the escape wheel stuck.
I checked and it seems the bottom pivot is gone, I'm wondering where one can find good genuine spare parts (or equivalent)? probably a noob question - apologies if that is the case
601 parts are all over ebay, one of the easier movements to get stuff for.
 
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601 parts are all over ebay, one of the easier movements to get stuff for.
thanks - I saw a few but I'm from switzerland, and deliveries are quite complicated. I'll check for deliveries to italy, I'm there often.