My love/hate relationship with Omega vintage bracelets - how the h*** to release this one?

turbo_muc · May 3, 2018

Hi OPs,

yes, I really like to buy Omega Vintages with original Omega bracelets!

But this has already brought me some challenges. The engineering is probably not always 100% thought through... Did you experience the same? Would love to hear your stories:

that's probably why Rolex stays with more or less two versions which are only optimised in details.

My latest challenge: an unnumbered bracelet on a Chronostop (not the mesh one which it is usually on).

It is so tight between the lugs and there is no space to get to the spring bars (see pictures). Usually you would expect some open corners for spring bars...

Edit: Probably it is supposed to be used with other end links and was not intended for the Chronostop?

Does anyone have clue how to release it? I tried different spring bar tools and a wooden toothpick (broken immediately). Any tips?

I will probably wear the watch with the bracelet because I like it but I would like to fully clean it via ultrasonic and at least have the option to change 😉

Thanks, Thomas

Archer · May 3, 2018

Is there a reason you are not going through the gap that is there - last photo shows it clearly...

turbo_muc · May 3, 2018

@Archer Thanks. I certainly tried this but even with the small Omega springbar tool I can't find my way to the springs... the links are always in my way and I don't get a straight connection.

Maybe the hole looks bigger on the picture than it actually is...

X350 XJR · May 3, 2018

You might have better luck with 1mm screwdriver.

Archer · May 3, 2018

turbo_muc
Maybe the hole looks bigger on the picture than it actually is...

Possibly, but since I work on stuff like this any day, the gap doesn't seem so small to me. As Norm noted, using a small screwdriver would be better than a spring bar tool - that is going to be far too big to get in there.

Cheers, Al

Dan S · May 3, 2018

Maybe somebody used springbars without shoulders. That would make it tough. I hate when people do that on non-drilled lugs.

Archer · May 3, 2018

Dan S
Maybe somebody used springbars without shoulders. That would make it tough. I hate when people do that on non-drilled lugs.

Yes that would certainly make things more difficult, as would the quick release spring bars that have the little handle on them - the handle sometimes rotates opposite the opening in the end link...one reason I hate them.

WhatYourWatchSay · May 3, 2018

Dan S
Maybe somebody used springbars without shoulders. That would make it tough. I hate when people do that on non-drilled lugs.

There's a special place in hell for those people.

ICONO · May 3, 2018

Depending on your hand /eye co-ordination, & the size of your cojones

There is enough seperation beteen the bracelet and the lug, to insert a thin rotating circular blade, attached to a Dremel

And cut through the springbar, without damaging the case

Whilst I do not recommend this, without advising extreme caution.......I have actually done it myself in the past, perfectly successfully, with no damage to the watch head, whatsoever

I entirely accept that @Archer ( terrific Gentleman ! ) is now vigorously crossing himself, & regarding my suggestions, as the ‘Spawn of the Devil’……Nevertheless, it does actually work

Once free, you can gently file a slot, in the end link, to allow easy re attachment, with a fresh spring bar.

MCC · May 3, 2018

I also think it could be the quick release spring bars, I had them on my Speedy bracelet and could not shift them at all. Ended up sending the watch away to get the bars changed and the bracelet resized.

Archer · May 3, 2018

ICONO
I entirely accept that @Archer ( terrific Gentleman ! ) is now vigorously crossing himself, & regarding my suggestions, as the ‘Spawn of the Devil’……Nevertheless, it does actually work

You are free to suggest whatever you wish, as I am free to suggest that if the OP considers the clear gap I can see in the end link to be "small" that this is very bad advice for him to take. But he is free to take it if he wishes of course.

Before I would suggest taking a Dremel anywhere near the watch (something I would never do personally as they are not much more than a toy that does damage very quickly) I would recommend he gently pry open the end link a little further to provide a large gap for a spring bar tool or screwdriver. Even as a last resort using a Dremel is simply too risky - if you wish to risk your own watches by taking one near them that is certainly your prerogative.

ICONO · May 3, 2018

Archer
You are free to suggest whatever you wish, as I am free to suggest that if the OP considers the clear gap I can see in the end link to be "small" that this is very bad advice for him to take. But he is free to take it if he wishes of course.

Before I would suggest taking a Dremel anywhere near the watch (something I would never do personally as they are not much more than a toy that does damage very quickly) I would recommend he gently pry open the end link a little further to provide a large gap for a spring bar tool or screwdriver. Even as a last resort using a Dremel is simply too risky - if you wish to risk your own watches by taking one near them that is certainly your prerogative.

Having benefitted, personally, from your kind & generous advice countless times…privately & publically …I would never disparage your experience

I simply presented an alternative to removing a particularly stubborn spring bar…that does actually work…if executed with caution

The OP is a ‘grown up’ & hopefully of ‘sound mind’…I am certain he can choose for himself which course of action to pursue

Archer · May 3, 2018

ICONO
I simply presented an alternative to removing a particularly stubborn spring bar…that does actually work…if executed with caution

Dremels and watchmaking generally don't go together - again they are mostly toys (and yes I have one for projects around the house).

My perspective is a little different than yours with regards to risk. Using a crude tool like a Dremel on someone's watch for me is pretty much unthinkable, as people trust me to take great care with the watches they send me for service. Doing no harm and mitigating risk is something I do every day. If you wish to use a Dremel on your own watch, just realize it's a different thing than what I do, and why my answer will be different to yours.

If I had to cut a spring bar out (a very rare thing actually - maybe do this once every 2 years or so), I would use a screw slot file that allows me a lot more control than something like a Dremel would. If something is a bit off with a file, I'll know it before it's too late and the damage has been done. A slow and steady approach is common in this profession, so I would rather take an extra few minutes to do it by hand, than try to get it done quickly with a cheap power tool and risk damage.

Your approach is fine for you certainly, but I'm just reiterating that it's not for everyone, which you knew when you posted it. 😀

Cheers, Al

ICONO · May 3, 2018

Archer
Dremels and watchmaking generally don't go together - again they are mostly toys (and yes I have one for projects around the house).

My perspective is a little different than yours with regards to risk. Using a crude tool like a Dremel on someone's watch for me is pretty much unthinkable, as people trust me to take great care with the watches they send me for service. Doing no harm and mitigating risk is something I do every day. If you wish to use a Dremel on your own watch, just realize it's a different thing than what I do, and why my answer will be different to yours.

If I had to cut a spring bar out (a very rare thing actually - maybe do this once every 2 years or so), I would use a screw slot file that allows me a lot more control than something like a Dremel would. If something is a bit off with a file, I'll know it before it's too late and the damage has been done. A slow and steady approach is common in this profession, so I would rather take an extra few minutes to do it by hand, than try to get it done quickly with a cheap power tool and risk damage.

Your approach is fine for you certainly, but I'm just reiterating that it's not for everyone, which you knew when you posted it. 😀

Cheers, Al

Of course Al………there is a vast difference between ‘professional’ diligent responsibility,…& taking a calculated risk, ones self, recognising the inherent dangers

Not unlike enthusiastically driving a fast two seater, at high speed…on an open clear road…

Entirely anticipated the ‘flak’ 😀

Davidt · May 3, 2018

I've had this several times and as noted above, the cause is frequently either quick release bars that have spun around or the bars without shoulders.

If I really can't get sufficient purchase, one course of action that has worked for me is to prise open the end link (perhaps not if it's a no.6 or 516 etc!!) to get better access to the bar. This often allows you to slide the end link to one side, over the lug, giving access to much more of the bar to either continue with the soringbar tool or go at it with a file (or even a junior hacksaw :whipped:

!)

pmontoyap · May 3, 2018

ICONO
Depending on your hand /eye co-ordination, & the size of your cojones

There is enough seperation beteen the bracelet and the lug, to insert a thin rotating circular blade, attached to a Dremel

And cut through the springbar, without damaging the case.

This is much cheaper, and I would think more appropriate tool. Im not a watchmaker but I think they might use this type of saw to gently cut off the flimsy springbar.

turbo_muc · May 14, 2018

thanks for all your help! it was not quick release bars though 👍 and the screwdriver and a lot of patience did it. Would not have been possible with a usual spring bar tool! Spring bars seemed a bit large and were grimey.

Btw: does anyone know the ref. no of this bracelet? Ist 18mm wide. The ref no. is not engraved in the clasp (clasp contains only number 11 in a circle and the usual Omega stainless steel depose!

PS: I was on holiday - therefore my late response!

Archer · May 15, 2018

turbo_muc
thanks for all your help! it was not quick release bars though 👍 and the screwdriver and a lot of patience did it. Would not have been possible with a usual spring bar tool! Spring bars seemed a bit large and were grimey.

Btw: does anyone know the ref. no of this bracelet? Ist 18mm wide. The ref no. is not engraved in the clasp (clasp contains only number 11 in a circle and the usual Omega stainless steel depose!

PS: I was on holiday - therefore my late response!

In my view, patience is the thing you need most when confronting something like this - rushing to a solution will usually end in a bad way.

I have had some spring bars so crusted that they could not be removed - they were just so packed with dirt there was no moving the spring at all, even if I could get a good grip on it with the tool. Did I cut them out? No, I split the bracelet at the clasp, opened the case and removed the movement (which I was going to do anyway to service it) and chucked the whole case and bracelet in the ultrasonic cleaning tank. Couple of cycles through that and the spring bars were free.

There's pretty much always an alternative that is low risk, and that is the one to take every time in my view. Glad you got it sorted.

Not sure what the bracelet is if there's no markings on it. I checked for the Chronostop and if your case is a 145009/145010 then Omega calls for a 1120/116 bracelet for it.

Cheers, Al

My love/hate relationship with Omega vintage bracelets - how the h*** to release this one?

turbo_muc

Archer

turbo_muc

X350 XJR

Archer

Dan S

Archer

WhatYourWatchSay

ICONO

MCC

Archer

ICONO

Archer

ICONO

Davidt

pmontoyap

turbo_muc

Archer

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