Forums Latest Members

Moonwatch First-Time Buyer : Looking for Expertise/Guidance

  1. moontag May 30, 2015

    Posts
    76
    Likes
    36
    Note: I made a post yesterday in WUS but I don't know whether or not cross-pollination exists between the members of these two forums. Sorry if you already read the post over there.

    I am planning to purchase a Moonwatch soon and have some questions/guidance/advice regarding my thought process on which model I am selecting and what to look for when choosing a seller.
    1. I am leaning heavily towards the 3750.50 because it is "Flight-Qualified By NASA For All Manned Space Missions." Ya know, Virgin Galactic would probably make me remove any sapphire version if I ever got a chance to do a commercial spaceflight. Hehe. [​IMG]
    2. Knowing this, is there any reason, any reason at all beyond aesthetic, to avoid the Hesalite? I have only seen the newer sapphire models in person and could see the milky ring and could see how the edge cuts off the dial a tiny bit. I am hoping to find another AD in the area in hopes of seeing the Hesalite in person.
    3. I think the mid-2000's model is the right production year for me primarily because I don't want a really old lume, and cost. From what I gather, does this mean the serial should be in the 7713xxxx to 7718xxxx range? Is my concern w/r/t luminescence valid or is this a non issue?
    4. Essentially, is there any reason to choose an earlier model over a newer model? I suppose I would be willing to go earlier than mid-2000s if it didn't matter and price was lower.
    5. If the mid-2000's is the right choice, what is a reasonable/lowest price for this range of years? I don't want to spend a cent more than I have to, even if it requires watch-hunting for a couple weeks/months.
    6. Does it matter if the watch comes with a warranty card? My research indicates that Omega gives 2 year warranties and these serial numbers would be beyond that which would qualify for free servicing. Correct?
    7. Should I inquire as to whether or not the watch has been serviced by an Omega AD - or non-Omega watchmaker - recently?
    8. What are your recommendations about purchasing a pre-owned model? I have seen some on eBay and on various watch websites but I do not know what to look for w/r/t who is a reputable dealer. Also, what should I be looking for in the pictures/description to make sure its a) authentic and b) the movement is in good shape, etc.
    9. My goal is to have this watch for decades but I suppose re-sale values are a portion of the calculus as well (which is why I want a steel bracelet).
    10. If I have missed anything that I should be thinking about, please let me know!

    I am pretty pumped about this and I cannot wait to join the club! TYIA for your responses; ΩF is an awesome resource. [​IMG]

    Edit: I am also open to exploring the idea of purchasing an older version of the Hesalite Moonwatch if anyone thinks it may be a better fit for my need as cost is a factor.

    Pics of all models are appreciated as well... I love this watch.
     
    Edited May 30, 2015
  2. persco May 30, 2015

    Posts
    269
    Likes
    623
    The 3750.50 is a great choice. I love mine. Get it from Krinkily here. Very trusted seller of Speedies. Fair prices.
     
    bb58 likes this.
  3. Taddyangle Convicted Invicta Wearer May 30, 2015

    Posts
    4,820
    Likes
    31,398
    All good points. The hesalite is the best way to go in my opinion. It looks great, historical correct, cost effective to replace, and easy to maintain.

    You can spend many hours searching for a good deal. But time is money, so factor that into equation.

    I bought my first omega from a trusted eBay seller in Japan. It worked well for me, but I spent many hours researching and waiting to get/bid the "best deal". I bid on many auctions...

    A short cut (time wise) is to go with a trusted AD, or the trusted reseller on this board. You pay more, but once you factor in time savings, my guess it's a wash.

    I enjoy looking for a "deal" so dont mind spending hours and hours doing this, but from a cost effective stand point (I could be working) I am sure the watches "cost" twice what I pay.
     
  4. AAAKK First listing in the ΩF B2B phone book May 30, 2015

    Posts
    866
    Likes
    2,867
    You can't go wrong with a 3570.50. Just remember that any mid 2000s is likely due for a service overhaul unless you have documented evidence that it's been completed. Something to consider when budgeting.
     
    Nobel Prize likes this.
  5. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member May 30, 2015

    Posts
    26,949
    Likes
    32,636
    I'd recommend looking at the 3572.50, its now discontinued but available in the mid 2000s and is hesalite front, sapphire back, which is the best of both worlds imo
     
    bb58 likes this.
  6. moontag May 30, 2015

    Posts
    76
    Likes
    36
    How much would a reasonably-priced service overhaul set me back (USD)? Also, is the service something I should be doing with Omega directly or would a reputably third-party suffice?
     
  7. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member May 30, 2015

    Posts
    26,949
    Likes
    32,636
    A quality independent watchmaker would be the best option, 350-600 is the typical range though you'll get quotes higher and lower.
     
  8. WatchVaultNYC May 30, 2015

    Posts
    3,719
    Likes
    4,190
    1 - good choice
    2 - hesalite scratches easily, but is also easily polished. If you can be bothered with 1 minute of polywatch each month, its the way to go.
    3 - anything that isnt superluminova (post 1997) is very likely patina'd a this point
    4 - 861 movement vs 1861 (rhodium plated) movement. Also bracelets vary, a lot of Speedy owners including myself do not like the chunky new clasp, or the rattly vintage bracelet.
    5 - depends on the condition, and whom you're buying from
    6 - doesn't matter unless you're a completist or the warrantly still has time left on it
    7 - yes
    8 - if you are not knowledgable, best and safest course of action is to "buy the seller". However this may be in conflict with "not having to pay a cent more than I have to", which is only possible if you have enough knowledge and have the stomach to buy from no-reputation sellers. A Speedy sold on Ebay will cost the seller around $300 in fees, which the seller of course passes on to you in the form of a higher price.
    9 - if you are new to the watch hobby, buying a watch "to have for decades" may not be a reasonable expectation. Tastes change over months and years. It's like asking a 5 year old "what do you want to be when you grow up" and expect them to still want the same thing as an adult.
     
    Prange likes this.
  9. moontag May 30, 2015

    Posts
    76
    Likes
    36
    if a main difference b/w the 861 and 1861 is the rhodium plating, how does that affect my decision? i suppose it is realistic to think that i may trade this watch in one day but my hope is for it to be one of many in my collection :) what do you mean "patina'd"? and yes, i would rather pay a little more for piece of mind than opting for the lowest price from an unknown seller. nevertheless, price is still a factor.
     
  10. WatchVaultNYC May 30, 2015

    Posts
    3,719
    Likes
    4,190
    Rhodium plating is shinier, and supposedly scratch resistant. I will not be the best judge of what's "better" because I personally prefer the warm "gilt" 863 movement on the 3592.50 (early sapphire-back Speedy on left). Sadly, 3592.50s are getting hard to come by in near-mint condition or better.

    [​IMG]

    Patina is the yellowing of the lume with age, which some collectors favor but you've indicated that you don't like. IIRC, Omega phased in superluminova (a non fading lume) around 1997, so watches after that vintage generally speaking won't have lume that fades. In my experience, most Speedys that are pre-superluminova (almost 20yrs old) have lume that have already developed patina