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Making a vintage military field watch water resistant?

hungdangnguyen23
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Hi all, I'm a hiking and outdoor enthusiast who recently picked up a G-Shock for use in the field but I'd rather wear a vintage MoD or mil spec issued watch by Hamilton, CWC, Benrus, Precista etc. like a MIL-W-46374, GG-W-113, G10, W10, DTU-2A/P etc.

Here's the problem - I need the watch to be water resistant for light water activities (rain, brief submerging of water in creeks and rivers, etc). The watches I've listed are required per mil spec to be water resistant at least for these kinds of activities.

So 2 questions:
1) can these vintage watches be used for these kinds of activities without replacing the gaskets/O-rings?
2) how difficult would it be to restore the water resistance to mil spec? would I have to get the exact same gaskets, O-rings, replace the tube for the crown etc?

And pics because all threads need pics:
Screen Shot 2019-02-26 at 11.29.26 AM.png Screen Shot 2019-02-26 at 11.31.44 AM.png Screen Shot 2019-02-26 at 11.34.56 AM.png
 
ext1
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I don't know the technicalities of how to go about doing it, but I would like to add that it's definitely possible IMO...there was that guy at Hodinkee who dived with the real Tornek-Rayville. But I think at least it would be hard without replacing anything...
 
S.H.
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New gaskets, new crown, new crystal, maybe new tube if it is worn and you should be good to go up to 3-4bars probably. The difficulty would be locating identical crowns and crystals (some are specific, with sandblasted finish for example), but generics could do the job.

FWIW, a 1950s Seamaster (not even a screwed back) can withstand a few bars (with new gaskets, crown, etc). You will have to check it very regularly, it is never eternally water resistant and the world is full of water damaged divers.
 
Archer
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S.H. S.H.
New gaskets, new crown, new crystal, maybe new tube if it is worn and you should be good to go up to 3-4bars probably. The difficulty would be locating identical crowns and crystals (some are specific, with sandblasted finish for example), but generics could do the job.

FWIW, a 1950s Seamaster (not even a screwed back) can withstand a few bars (with new gaskets, crown, etc). You will have to check it very regularly, it is never eternally water resistant and the world is full of water damaged divers.

While it's certainly possible that replacing what you have outlined will make a case water resistant again, it's far from a certainty. It really depends on the condition of the sealing surfaces - if they are all pitted then all bets are off on restoring any water resistance.
 
hungdangnguyen23
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S.H. S.H.
New gaskets, new crown, new crystal, maybe new tube if it is worn and you should be good to go up to 3-4bars probably. The difficulty would be locating identical crowns and crystals (some are specific, with sandblasted finish for example), but generics could do the job.

Would I really have to replace the entire crown? Just the gasket within the crown, right? Assuming the gaskets are dissolved and no longer good. Yeah, I've heard about tubes having to be replaced since this is the main entry point for moisture/water.

Archer Archer
While it's certainly possible that replacing what you have outlined will make a case water resistant again, it's far from a certainty. It really depends on the condition of the sealing surfaces - if they are all pitted then all bets are off on restoring any water resistance.

Yeah I read a post about a guy with a vintage Seiko 6309 or a 6105 in stellar condition but with pitting to the caseback so the gasket couldn't get a perfect seal and would still leak with enough water pressure. I'm not going to swim with this field watch and will just expose it to moisture through "field" activities (rain and occasional submerging ie. washing hands, etc).
 
Archer
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hungdangnguyen23 hungdangnguyen23
Yeah I read a post about a guy with a vintage Seiko 6309 or a 6105 in stellar condition but with pitting to the caseback so the gasket couldn't get a perfect seal and would still leak with enough water pressure. I'm not going to swim with this field watch and will just expose it to moisture through "field" activities (rain and occasional submerging ie. washing hands, etc).

If the pitting is bad, you will have zero water resistance...



 
Professor
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Could a light smear of an automotive Forma Gasket compound work in a pinch? Being careful to avoid any migrating into the innards before it cured of course.
I wonder if lapping the surfaces might work. Using a lapp molded to the surface and turned by hand, perhaps using Accra-glass ?
There are "Self Leveling" Nickel plating methods that fill in pitting and can be used to build up threads that are worn before re-threading.
Not something I've heard of being applied to watch case restoration, just a few wild notions tossed out there.
 
mblease
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hungdangnguyen23 hungdangnguyen23
One of the watches I'm haggling with the seller over is this same watch but from 1980, my birth year.

Nice, that will be the fatboy with the thicker case size. I have an 82 going if that falls through.
 
S.H.
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If it is badly pitted, of course, you're signing up for a lot of problems. I heard of something like a liquid gasket but I can't remember what it was exactly.

I understand the urge of using a field watch for what it was designed for but frankly, it is quite simpler to buy a 10-100$ waterproof quartz for the outdoors. A seiko SKX might also do the trick for some more. They glow at night, they are almost disposable. For me, in most cases, a good dependable WR means a modern/new watch. Keep it simple.
 
time flies
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S.H. S.H.
If it is badly pitted, of course, you're signing up for a lot of problems. I heard of something like a liquid gasket but I can't remember what it was exactly.

I understand the urge of using a field watch for what it was designed for but frankly, it is quite simpler to buy a 10-100$ waterproof quartz for the outdoors. A seiko SKX might also do the trick for some more. They glow at night, they are almost disposable. For me, in most cases, a good dependable WR means a modern/new watch. Keep it simple.
+1
20180313_072951.jpg 20180122_142407.jpg
have fun
kfw
 
D
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Hi had my g10 from issue in the late 80s. Been through a lot Falklands, ECT. Still swim in it, had battery change. Never had a seal just use a bit of gasket seal gently applied. Don't worry unless your going to sit in the water for hours on a op a but of grease around the back and crown work wonders
 
Archer
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D Dave london
Don't worry unless your going to sit in the water for hours on a op a but of grease around the back and crown work wonders

The typical silicon grease that is used on watch seals is not intended to be a sealant. It is only there to allow the seal to slide on whatever surface it's in contact with, without distorting the seal due to drag.
 
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