Thanks, Archer. I still haven't found any "email reply notifications" settings around this forum so I've been AWOL.
The yearly business? Find a yellow pages [sic] call authorized service shops, see how many say seven years. I have one good repairman who will work on only a few brands, I let him do what he wants on my own "newer" watch when it is battery and gaskets time, mainly because I want the gaskets and waterproof integrity maintained. That's been every three years so far. And my "old" watch...lets say it is out for service now and I'm hoping to have finally found an expert on that brand, it hasn't been easy even for someone who *is* internet-astute. But why should watch repairs be any more reputable than any other profession these days? You know, just try to find a good
anything.
That watch you repaired, that pretty much looked like it needed a trip to the Shiny Brass Gear Teeth Factory? (what we used to say about stick shifts that had been abused) Maybe all that brass grit was caused by a part failure or defect, not just the long-term wear? You know, bang the wrist, impact the moving pieces, and once something is out of alignment, it becomes a loose cannon.
I'd really like to research what is in that Moebius lube, since "drying" out in a sealed case means the "moisture" has gone somewhere else inside. I understand that Krytox may be too viscous for watches, even in the thinnest grades, but that's one example of a lube that's now been around over a decade, which simply does not break down or gum up or fail, from about -70F to 700F even in a vacuum, or chlorine atmosphere. Fifty year service life? Easy.
So in the gentle environment of a watch case? "Here be dragons" may be true, but what are the odds it isn't just for lack of knowing better?
Hi Red,
Can I ask what your agenda is here? I believe you posted very similar remarks on this subject on WUS under the name "hellosailor" about the same time you made the first post about lubricants here - that post says:
"I hear a lot of talk about 'dried' or gummy lubricants, but good modern lubes don't oxidize, or migrate, or evaporate, inside a sealed case at normal temperatures. I suspect a lot of cheap watchbreakers use cheap lubricants and even more use FUD to terrorize folks into lots of unnecessary servicing. Clean? A hermetically sealed container where no dirt can get in?
Find a real professional, not one of the many watchbreakers that pretend to be one. Get it serviced with proper modern lubes and come back in 25 years.(g)"
If that's not you then I apologize, but it seems too close in tone and substance to your post to be pure coincidence.
You can believe whatever you like - I'm not here to change your mind mate. But on the off chance you are not just being a troll, yes please do look up Moebius lubricants. These are lubricants specified by all of Swatch group, so for watches from basic ETA all the way to Breguet, Blancpain, etc. and they are pretty much the industry standard.
As for the oils drying up, and that "moisture" having to go somewhere, please refer to this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil
Now you mention quartz watches - I am primarily referring to mechanical watches, since that is what I service 99.9% of the time. Quartz watches can go longer between services, partly due to the very short pulses when there is force on the wheel train (usually totals about 7.8 ms for each second the watch ticks). In contrast a mechanical watch has forces on the pivots from the time the watch is wound, and those forces are there even after the watch stops. Although wear isn't happening because there is no movement, the spring really never fully unwinds when a watch stops on it's own, which is why a mainspring must be let down before you disassemble a watch that has stopped.
If you take your watch in the water regularly, getting the seals checked (and if necessary changed) yearly is probably a good idea, but this is not related to the oil in the movement.
Watch oils are very light in terms of viscosity, but also have other properties that are unrelated to viscosity that make them well suited to the job. Unlike most oils that you want to move everywhere possible within a closed system like a gearbox, in a watch you apply minute amounts of oil to specific places, and you don't want it to migrate at all. If it gets on the teeth of wheels (gears) it will likely stop the watch - only the pivots are lubricated in most cases. Watch oil is a very fine balance of using an oil that will protect for a given term, and not bog the watch down due to excessive drag, reduce balance amplitude, cause loss of running time, etc.
In a typical watch service, including lubricants for the gaskets, I will use about 7 different oils and greases.
Now you keep referring to some "lack of knowledge" out there, so can you please clarify what you mean by that? Are you referring to the knowledge of the watchmaker, the school where he/she was taught, or the manufacturer who designs the movements and makes the oil recommendations? Because they all say the same thing about what oils to use and generally how often to service a watch. There are slight variations, so some might say 5 years between service, some 7, but no one I know says 1, or 25 (or 50). Do you really believe there is a "super oil" out there that us watchmakers, watchmaking schools, and watch manufacturers simply are not aware of? If so, that seems a little far fetched to me personally, but again you can believe what you like.
And I fully agree it's tough to find a good "anything" out there, including guys who post random comments with no basis in fact about lubricants on internet watch forums.
😉
j/k
Cheers, Al