Looking for Info on Mid-80s Tudor Prince Oysterdate

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Hello!
I have been searching for an oyster-cased vintage date, and I decided on this Tudor Prince Oysterdate ref. 75100 that I grabbed for a price I’m happy with (951USD), though it is certainly an honest example. I was a little nervous about it at first, as it seems to be a somewhat unusual reference, and is the only two-tone from the era with a non-plated crown and bracelet. I suspected they had been changed out, but of the 5 other 75100s I found sold online, all were the exact same.

I am hoping some of you might be able to fill in the blanks on this one, and help me to learn more about this era of Prince Oysterdates.

Here’s the rundown:
1984/85 Prince Oysterdate, ref. 75100
Serial: 105884
Sapphire Crystal
White gold bezel, champagne dial
Steel flat link jubilee bracelet, ref K1 6248-19
The movement should be an ETA 2824-2, but I’m waiting on a case back opener to check it. I can say that it is a 28800vph movement, hacking and hand winding, with a semi-quickset date and an instant change at 11:58pm. The date wheel has an interesting texture, almost like a horizontally brushed linen, and the font seems to match the Tudor font on the dial, with its long serifs.

Here are the photos:


Here are my two most burning questions:

1. What is the purity of the gold bezel? Some people say 14k, others say 18k, but I don’t know how to tell.

2. What grade 2824 should be inside it, and what modifications did Tudor make that I can check for authenticity? Some people say they only used Top grades, other say Elabore, it’s still unclear to me.

Thanks in advance!
 
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I don’t know about the gold, but a Tudor 2824 is top grade with a kif shock system and a triovis regulator
 
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Thanks
I don’t know about the gold, but a Tudor 2824 is top grade with a kif shock system and a triovis regulator
Thanks for the info, that’s exactly what I was looking for! Assuming this is what’s in my watch, do you know what kind of accuracy I should expect from a freshly serviced movement? Mine currently seems to run about -12 seconds/day, but I don’t know its service history.
 
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Really depends on the watchmaker I think, the triovis is supposedly more difficult to regulate than the normal etachron. But these are nice robust movements.
 
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Why do you want to know about the gold?
 
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Hello!
I have been searching for an oyster-cased vintage date, and I decided on this Tudor Prince Oysterdate ref. 75100 that I grabbed for a price I’m happy with (951USD), though it is certainly an honest example. I was a little nervous about it at first, as it seems to be a somewhat unusual reference, and is the only two-tone from the era with a non-plated crown and bracelet. I suspected they had been changed out, but of the 5 other 75100s I found sold online, all were the exact same.

I am hoping some of you might be able to fill in the blanks on this one, and help me to learn more about this era of Prince Oysterdates.

Here’s the rundown:
1984/85 Prince Oysterdate, ref. 75100
Serial: 105884
Sapphire Crystal
White gold bezel, champagne dial
Steel flat link jubilee bracelet, ref K1 6248-19
The movement should be an ETA 2824-2, but I’m waiting on a case back opener to check it. I can say that it is a 28800vph movement, hacking and hand winding, with a semi-quickset date and an instant change at 11:58pm. The date wheel has an interesting texture, almost like a horizontally brushed linen, and the font seems to match the Tudor font on the dial, with its long serifs.

Here are the photos:


Here are my two most burning questions:

1. What is the purity of the gold bezel? Some people say 14k, others say 18k, but I don’t know how to tell.

2. What grade 2824 should be inside it, and what modifications did Tudor make that I can check for authenticity? Some people say they only used Top grades, other say Elabore, it’s still unclear to me.

Thanks in advance!


These were produced in both 14 and 18 karat. The karatage depends on the market the watch was exported to. For North America, 14 karat. Switzerland and Italy (and possible others), 18 karat. There’s likely no way to find out but to have the bezel tested.