I can't quite bring myself to get a proper dress watch, but looking for something a bit more grown up then my current very tool watch focused collection.

My basic criteria:

1. Three hander
2. Date optional
3. in the 39mm-41mm range
4. 100m+ water resistance (I swim and travel a lot, so not having to take of the watch to swim is a plus)
5. Would prefer both strap and bracelet options. If strap only, should still look good on a waterproof option (nylon or rubber).
6. Available for < $USD5000 on the secondhand market.

So an AT is pretty much a slam dunk right? Sadly the current line up with the teak dials leaves me cold, so I am looking for recommendations.

Some watches I have considered:

Omega
2500 based AT
* Some good dial choices (Railmaster, White with blue hands especially)
* Has an oddball movement with the co-axial escapement grafted onto an 1120 so possible long term service issues
* Pretty cheap on the second hand market
Globemaster
* love the new movement and the pie pan dial
* not as crazy about the fluted bezel but waiting to see one in the flesh

Rolex
I'm not a fan of the cyclops, but both the 39mm Explorer and Oyster Perpetual (love that rhodium dial) fit my criteria and avoid the plastic bubble.
I still have a bit of anti-rolex sentiment to overcome, but these are not are at least somewhat stealth models

Zenith
When Zenith came out with the Espada a couple of years ago I was looking forward to checking it out as it ticked all my boxes, but finally seeing it in the metal it just didn't grab me. Looks like Zenith gave up on it as well s it doesn't seem tot be on their website anymore.

IWC
I've been eyeing the Mark series for a while, and love the IWC bracelet, but don't feel the water resistance is up to snuff. The Ingenieur 3239 is probably the most serious contender here, though the integrated bracelet limits the ability to switch to different straps.

Would love to hear suggestions of other models/brands or counterpoints to any of my objections above!

 

If you don't like the AT Teak dials, then Explorer I or Milgauss should suit you pretty well. The regular Oyster Perpetual dials never really did it for me, but if they speak to you then you can't go wrong as the movements, finishing and overall quality are hard to beat. And yes, the above three are much more "stealth" choices than the ubiquitous Subs and Daytonas.

I'm a huge fan of Grand Seikos, especially the Spring Drives, but you really have to see them in the flesh for a full appreciation. Pictures can't capture the case finishing, hand and dial details and overall harmony that each possess.

Nomos Ahoi is a personal fav as well, although it strays closer to the "sporty" side. I don't think it has a bracelet option, but it looks great on a good mesh. And the dark blue dial is STRIKING in the flesh, and you'd be saving some serious coin.

Even further down the pricing line are Sinns, such as the 6068 and 6110. 100m WR, bracelet and strap options, robustly made.

Surely there are countless other options, these are just the ones I can think of off the cuff. GLWTS

 

I would also look at the Tudor Heritage Ranger in addition to the others listed already

 

Thanks for the recommendations! Conveniently the nearest Nomos and GS retailers to me are the same place (and one that I bought a Bremont from) so will have to make a trip to take a look.

Very much liked the pictures online of the Ahoi Atlantik though, if it looks as good in the flesh it may be a strong contender.

 

I have the 114300 OP39 with the rhodium dial.

 

I would get the new globemaster!

 

The new Globemaster certainly is a beauty.
But to me the Rolex OP 39 as shown above by Speedbird is the bee's knee's.
Hope to make it my next watch purchase.
Best regards.

 

Dear dc_in_sf ,
Why are You confusing everybody when subconsciously you have already Made Up your Mind ?
Go For It ...!!!
To reconfirm your choice , get a good nights' sleep tonight ,wake up come morning & the 1st watch that comes to mind will be Your Baby !

 

If only I had actually made up my mind... well maybe not - half the fun of this hobby is agonizingly researching every decision ;-)

 

I don't understand.

 

Dear dc_in_sf
Of Course Dear..i know that feeling...
Sure You can Wait... sometimes anticipating & waiting for your dream watch is like ...more fun than actually owning it....?! although digging a hole not only makes you sink deeper but digging diligently everywhere balances out everything & you are back to Square One !
Sweet !...Good Luck...Ciao Baby...!

 

The one thing I will say about the 114300 rhodium dial is that in some lighting conditions, it's VERY hard to read. If any Rolex could benefit from AR, this is the one. The AT's domed ARed sapphire is faaaar Superior to what Rolex is doing. At least AR on the inside would be a step in the right direction.

Rolex's US CEO said they intentionally leave off the AR to make the watch more shiney and I see where they're going with that, shrugs.

 

Highly recommend spending some time with a Milgauss.

 

Ummm.. I also don't understand... how can you not love the AT??

What about the Datejust?

 

Datejust, Airking, Globe master

Oh and consider an AT as well

 

Get the Explorer 214270 - and close the thread!


I was really close to getting one and still hate myself for not getting it. ETERNALLY CLASSICALLY TIMELESS!





Found a nice comparo pic (stare at it for at least 5 min!) : Its the RLX, right?

the EX was a CLASSIC 50 years ago, is a CLASSIC today and will be a CLASSIC 50 years down the road - I heard that Rolex will never drop the Explorer line, as a committment with Hillary/Tensing

the AT will be just another Omega they had for a couple of years in the 2000s.


... time to overcome your rolex-fear

cheers
al

 

Definitely the Explorer or Milgauss. There is some talk that a 40mm Datejust could be coming down the pipe too.

Grand Seiko is another wonderful alternative I plan on adding to my collection sometime soon.

IWC overhauls their lines every four or five years, it's exhausting to keep up. I wouldn't buy an IWC unless it was one of their classic models that doesn't change every six minutes.

Rolex or Grand Seiko IMO.

 

I had. Grand Seiko . Great watch but it lacked refinement compared to an AT, date just explorer, globe master etc.

 

I will be in New York mid-March and staying at the Sherry for a week. I intend to reserve some time before my wife meets up with me to do some watch browsing and visit several nearby watch stores, including the new Seiko Boutique on Madison Avenue, where I will have my first Grand Seiko encounter!

I have to agree with several of the above posts that within the OP´s second-hand/grey market price range the Rolex Explorer 1, new Oyster Perpetual, IWC 3239 Ingenieur or a Grand Seiko/Nomos would be the best options for an AT alternative.

I prefer the previous 36mm version of the Explorer 1 (although as a side note I do prefer the new 42mm Explorer 2)..I am pretty sure the OP can find a Exp 1 36mm second hand for a price well within the OP´s current budget range.

 

@Nobel Prize..Wow you are the first person who I have read online rating a Grand Seiko below an AT, Explorer etc. for refinement. Generally most Grand Seiko owners rave about the finishing and refinement etc. Could you tell me which Grand Seiko model you had and what were the weak points of the watch?