I've searched through the forum a bit and picked up some tidbits regarding what to do with old speedmasters that don't work (such as never send them directly to Omega for repair), but curious as to what advice you'd give in my specific situation.

It's a model 145022-69 ST according to the inside back of the case. I can't find a serial number, but I assume that's because it's inside the sealed movement (which I don't think I should try to open?). The history of the watch is my father got it as a gift from my grandparents when he went to the US Naval Academy in ~1968. He wore it throughout his Naval career, then forgot about it for a few decades. It seems to work ok when I wind it up (the second hand starts moving and by pulling out the crown I can make the minute and hour hand move). I'm not sure about the rest of the functions as I don't have operating instructions (are these available somewhere?).

Comparing the picture I took of it to others I've found online of the same model, it appears that the push button caps?? are missing, as are the watch ends? (the parts that go between the band and the watch?)

While he recently gave it to me, ideally I think I'd like to get it back in working condition and give it back to him since it has some sentimental value. While I looked on ebay and see that 'pristine' versions of this model can sell or over $3K, I assume this particular one is hardly worth anything due to the defects listed above? I personally won't use it as I'm more of a high-tech watch guy (e.g. solar cell battery, digital timer, etc)

Any other advice / suggestions on what I could do with it?

 

Won't cost you all that much to fix it. Getting it serviced (never at Omega btw) and replacing the pushers and end links will run about $750 to $1000.

 

Welcome,

Expect a private message from somebody who would love to acquire your Omega! Assuming that you don't come to the conclusion that you have quite a treasure, here, it will likely be easy to divest yourself of it! Despite the fact that it needs work and many parts. It has considerable intrinsic worth, but it should have added value to you because of the family connection. Think about it before you move it along! (I expect to be hated, now, for being so honest!)

 

well worth fixing up, and letting you dad wear it for a while longer.

share where you're located and someone may have a recommendation for a watchmaker.

you may want to try it out for a while. you may like it.

 

Get it fixed (repeat, not by Ω service centre).
Wear it for a while.
If you don't bond, let your Dad have it for a while.
If you do like it, just share it with your Dad (no fighting over it now!).

 

Oops.. that is an important point. I live in Ohio.

 

The bezel alone is worth a good US$600 (probably more) the broken bracelet a little but not a lot less.
Find a watchmaker experienced with vintage chronographs and ask them to replace the pushers, crown and crystal (modern omega parts will be fine) and service the movement. You can also get them to supply new endlinks for the bracelet, a new bracelet or a nice leather strap.

 

Get it serviced and repaired, there are some excellent Omega specialist watch makers in the US including a number of forum members. I have bought a number of Speedies over the years from family members of previous owners, in fact my favourite Speedy (pictured below and not the LCD) came from the son of the original owner.

Again sure some forum member will no doubt PM you wanting to aquire your watch, and rightly so, it looks very good. The case looks unpolished the DON (dot above ninety) bezel is in excellent condition (and as others have said valuable in itself now). The 1039 stretch bracelet looks in good condition except the end pieces (which can easily be replaced by modern 630 or the likes)

It is a lovely watch and I echo the sentiment of others about considering keeping it and not selling it on. These watches are only going one way in value and that is north so it's a bar better investment than having the money languishing in the bank.

 

The watch is worth more than 3K in the condition it's in now

 

I was thinking the same, the other option is to float it on eBay, hold your resolve and see what it fetches in the current condition, I would speculate more than $3K. Gone have the days (only a couple of years ago) were a great 145.022-69 would leave you plenty of pocket change from £2K!

 

Keep it as it has such meaning and history to you. Get it serviced by a good watchmaker and not just any watchmaker. Looks great.

 

This is an interesting watch, that will service and clean up beautifully.

Lets look at an edited version of your photo from above:



It looks to me like a 29m serial (thats a guess!) 145.022-69, with a stepped dial and DO90 bezel, with what appear to be correct hands. The bracelet might be a 1039 and complementary to the watch, though missing end links. The dial, bezel hands and case look in very nice condition, and is commensurate with the history told. Pusher caps are missing and there may be water damage from ingress.

If it were mine, (and yes I would love it) then I would send to my Omega approved workshop with the following instructions:

Service Movement.
Clean case - no polishing
Supply new crown, pushers and crystal, returning old parts undamaged.
Test for water resistance (for knowledge, not in preparation for a dip)
Clean and check bracelet, supply correct Omega end links. (unless you want to spend time on Ebay looking for old 516 Endlinks).

Some experience I have:

Don't trust a watchmaker who says he can fix it, until he tells you he has an Omega parts account. This watch will need parts, and not parts from the grey market. The missing pusher caps have seen to that. People mean well, and they can be highly skilled. But they need parts, and Omega is restricting them.

I realise there is some contradictory sounding info here about watchmakers. So lets define:
1. Omega, Bienne. The birthplace. Once a bad reputation for replacing everything we collectors hold dear, they now will follow instructions....most of the time. They still might change a dial, unasked, if it is flaking, or some other, "we know best for you" thing so I dont send anything to them.

2. Omega AD's. Often employing muppets. There will be a watchmaker genius somewhere but not much chance of you getting him working on your watch.

3. Omega approved workshops. Independents, like @Archer, who have approval to work on Omegas and a Parts Account.

4. Watchmakers, highly skilled in Omegas, but without access to parts. If no parts are needed they can service the watch.

5, Watchmakers, basically muppets with an account at amazon for batteries.

People will try and steal your watch. ("Let me buy it for $2000, I doing you a favor). Lets be honest, this watch is worth $4000 - 5000 right now. Many will protest but that is the truth in this market for a one owner, barn find, -69 with a good DO90 bezel. This is NOT a "poor" example as on the price chart, it is a potential Good+. There are many who will pay 4000, and you only need one to pay 5000 and thats its true value today, what one lunatic will pay to beat off the competition. Make no mistake, this is a rare find.

One owner watches have a huge appeal, and are quite different from a watch that has been through many hands. Recognizing them is an intuitive skill, and hard to develop. Especially as there are those who seek to deceive in order to profit from the naive.

Here is one I would not sell for $5000:

 

Great write up @Spacefruit so for the OP choose watchmaker option number 3 from above. My favorite part of that post is the use of 'muppets' to describe certain workers, so very true.

 

Very nice writeup from Spacefruit. Appreciate the honesty from him. Is there another independent with and Omega account like Archer? Last I read, he's backed up a mile.

 

@chalker - if you live in Ohio and not Australia, why are your pictures upside down?

Okay, seriously...... You could try taking it to Stoll for repair. They did a nice job on a late 50's Seamaster I used to own.

http://www.americaswatchmaker.com

Right in your backyard even! Just let them know that you want to retain the watch's originality as much as possible and for them to try to find the CORRECT parts true to the watch if any have to be replaced. If they can't source them, tell them you'll find them and ask here.

One other thing: STOP WINDING IT!!!!! it's definitely lacking lubricant and probably very dirty. You'll ruin the internal mechanism and then you'll be SOL.

 

Great watch with a great story. Nesbit's is Seattle has a great reputation (and an Omega parts account). They'll service it correctly without ruining the vintage character. If you're going to keep it, as others have said, spend the money to get it properly serviced... just as Spacefruit laid out in his post.

And checkout Spacefruit's website if you haven't already: www.speedmaster101.com

 

Thank you all for the wonderful advice. I do indeed think I'll get it serviced locally, and probably take it to Stoll & Co, although I noticed they don't list Omega on their "factory authorized repair" page.

Looking at speedmaster101.com was very helpful, and based upon the pictures there I can tell it is a DO90. Some other details I can observe based upon that website is that it has a smooth case-back ("Pre-Moon"), asymmetric case.

I can easily take off the case back with a case-back tool I have. Do you all think it's appropriate for me to try to pry off the dust cover too to determine the serial number? Is there a way to determine the bracelet model?

 

Let the watchmaker take the caseback off! It's easy to scratch/gouge the caseback... which would be a tragedy.

 

You can take it off, but be very gentle as you really don't want to damage the movement. Use a small screwdriver, or better yet a flat bladed knife. Look under the clasp for the bracelet number, I think it's a 1039.

 

best to let the watchmaker do it, but if you do decide to try, only pry up the dust cover on the side where the crown goes in. as the crown secures the movement inside the case, there is less chance of the pry action lifting the movement and bending the stem. it shouldn't take a lot of force to lift it up... just be warned that bits of old gaskets or even particles floating in the air could get into the movement an cause issues