Looking for help on removing a link on my new Speedy. I've tried many searches on this forum and elsewhere in the interwebs and while it must exist in many places, I have not been able to find it.

1. I have seen write-ups about advantages of different styles of ends (some grab the screws better?). What screwdriver should I order to remove the screw in the link? Can you recommend a brand and the specific type? Also, do I need only 1 or is a 2nd required to hold the other side?

2. If only removing 1 end link, which one is preferred? I've numbered each in the photo attached starting at the 12-o-clock side of the case, to hopefully make this simple to communicate via the forum. Links 5, 6 and 7 are nearest the 12-o-clock side of the clasp and 10, 11 and 12 are nearest the 6-0-clock side. It appears to me the side nearest 6-o-clock is slightly longer and so it would make sense to remove one of 10, 11 or 12. Is there any 'best practice' or is it simply user preference?

3. When reinstalling a link, How does one make sure it won't come apart later? I assume applying the right torque is important to avoid under or over-tightenting it, is it recommended to apply any type of loctite? If yes, what kind?

As always, thank you for taking the time to help a noobie, especially knowing some of you may have already answered these questions many times in the past...

 

The ultimate choice should be made by you, because depending on which side of the bracelet you decide to remove the link from (6 or 12:00) it alters where the watch head sits on your arm. If you take a link from the 6:00 side of the bracelet (9 - 12), the result will be the watch is rolled inside towards your body (if you wear it on the left arm). That's what I wanted, so I removed one of 10, 11 or 12.

The torque is probably a published value, but here is how I did it. I put some clear nail polish on the screw before installation. Using a small screw driver, tighten the screw "tight" with the driver held between the thumb and forefinger. The key is to avoid having the blade slip out of the slot.

 

Thanks for the feedback. That is what I suspected and it's what I'm leaning towards as I do wear it on my left arm and would prefer it to roll inward.

I realize that ultimately if I don't like it that way, I can add the link back in and remove from the opposite side to try the different effect. The advice is good as this will be my first ever link removal and so I'd be quite happy to only have to do it once...

I saw a torque value published somewhere, but I don't have a small sensitive wrench capable of measuring it. I'm hoping I won't have to get one and I doubt most AD techs use a torque wrench (although that might be a silly incorrect assumption...?)

Question: do you apply the clear nail polish on the threads of the screw to act as a bonding agent? If not, then I'm not sure I quite understand the purpose of the nail polish... ?

 

Think it's similar to blue loctite in that it will do two things - prevent movement of the screw thus reducing the chance of coming dislodged, and also preventing possible seizure of the screw.
The only issue with any type of thread locking method is that heightened possibility of damage upon removal. But some say that scratches, like scars, add character......

 

I concur with all this.

If you are nervous about using nail polish, Loctite will keep the screw tight. If you ever have to add the link back and are afraid of damaging the loctited screw, take a different one out.

 

I bought this reference 3 weeks ago and removed links 7, 10 and 11 and used a 2.00 jewelers screwdriver. I didn't used loctite or nail polish when tightening the screws, but will check all the screws periodically to make sure they're not loose. Also, best to do this work under a magnifying glass imo.

BTW, since purchasing this Speedmaster, the other watches have seen almost no wrist time.

 

Thank you all for the responses on what links to remove and how.

Any specific recommendations on what screwdriver brand and sizes I should get? Should I buy 1 single piece, or maybe a small 4 or 5 piece set? I'm okay investing between $50 to $100 USD, with preference to stay on the lower end if possible. I have no intentions of changing many bracelet links, but I do realize a small investment is well worth avoiding damage to my lovely bracelets.

Thanks, this is clear and what I suspected. Nice to have it confirmed.

Makes sense, thanks for the tip.

Thanks for the feedback. I think 1 link is all I need to remove but like me you also went the route of shortening the side nearer to 6:00.

 

Go to your local Lowes or Homedepot and get a tiny screw driver set... its very easy.

 

I had this problem once too. So I flipped through the omega catalog while the friendly folks at the Swatch repair center removed the links for me...

 

So I took this advice and bought the best set my local Home Hardware store had in stock. Unfortunately, the 1.4mm fits my Rolex bracelet screws nicely but is too "thick" for the Speedmaster. Will have to try another I guess...

 

I didn't buy from an AD or OB so I don't feel quite right taking it there. Wouldn't that be a service intended for customers who buy from that location?

 

I've had a few watches in with them for service, so I don't feel bad asking for a bracelet adjustment. I don't think they'd mind anyway though.

 

Ot just file/stone the blade to make it fit - common thing to do when working on watches...

 

I thought of doing this but thought the tip might be hardened and wasn't sure if grinding down slightly might make it soft somehow. I'll give it a try when I get home from this week's trip, the set wasn't too pricey so not much lost if it doesn't work out.

Thanks for the tip, it'll give me the oomph I needed to try something.


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Don't feel bad about taking it to a boutique. That's literally why they're there.

If you really feel bad, look at NATOs or deployant straps while you're there. They're the best.


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Hi guys... Thinked to post here and not in a new topic, hoping is good..

I've the same Speedmaster.. But unfortunately i don't find a good measute for my wrist and adding the fact that this clasp have only two holes i can find a good position. Without 1 link is too tight.. With the link too loose.. How i can do? Omega doesn't sell the half link right? I know i can go leather or something else.. But sometimes i like to wear its bracelet.. Thanks to who help me!
Have a good day!



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I finally had my watchmaker remove one link for me (#12 in my diagram) and it also feels a bit snug. I believe moving the attachment pin on the clasp from the inner two holes to the outer holes will give the added 2mm I need. I'm in a hotel in Munich so don't have a ruler or calipers with me, but I'd say visually each link seems to be about 6mm and moving between these two clasp attachment holes gives ability to do a fine adjustment of +/- 2mm.

Honestly, most strap holes are 4 to 6mm apart as well, so I think between link removal/addition and this small fine-adjustment the range of sizes is similar to straps. The biggest difference is not having ability to set to a looser setting one day vs another without needing a tool.

 

OB in Munich uses a torque screwdriver (which was also part of the 50th anniversary coax SMs) as well as blue loctite. They may be able to procure such a screwdriver for you...
Florian

 

When reducing to fit, my choice was removing links 7, 10 (one or both) and then final fitting with the clasp fine adjustment (one of two hole). Screwdriver choice is key - it is very easy to mangle a screw with ill fitting tip. Blue loctite - very little - is appropriate.