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Legit vintage omega seamaster? Battle me on my thoughts: am I right or wrong

Clemmens
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What do you guys think? Am I right, or am I wrong?
IMG_20250627_154905.webp IMG_20250627_154916_1.webp IMG_20250627_154956.webp IMG_20250627_154941.webp IMG_20250627_155010.webp IMG_20250627_155018.webp


Recently I bought this gold capped Omega Seamaster 1960-1970.

Upon further inspection I have some concerns I'd like to raise:
1) The glass is in perfect condition and has the Omega logo in the middle. The dial has scratches that resonate with it's age.

My thought: Glass is newer but original Omega serviceglass. The watch has had it's service.

2.1) The Omega logo looks too wide.

My thought: Since the dial has many scratches and signs of age. My best bet is that it's a repainted dial.

2.2) Also the omega logo looks printed on the dial and not applied on.

My thought: According to different fora, this could be true although a damaged and repainted dial seems more plausible to me (unless you guys have a good reference that has the same).

3) The crown is not original to this watch.

My thought: I do believe it's original Omega though.

4) The watch strap is an original Hirsch strap with a fake Omega buckle

My thought: Fake buckle. No references inside.

5) Worth in this condition with these specs (runs perfectly): around 800 euro's
 
ErichKeane
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1: Replacement, well-cared for, or poly-watched. Any of those are possible.

2.1/2.2: There isn't a great view of the dial in that picture, but the printing on that dial looks really awful. The little I can see strikes me pretty solidly as a redial. The 44 minute marker is kinda messed up it looks too? Not something Omega would let out of the factory.

3: Looks like an omega crown, no idea if it is the right one.

4: Not good enough of a view,so I'll take your estimate.

5:
Without a reference number, determining value is really difficult. That said, redials typically mean "this is a parts watch" (as far as value), so $800 sounds REALLY REALLY high. Depending on the movement, I'd guess $300 or so would be about top-end (unless it has a particularly common/rare movement). You might get a little more out of someone who doesn't know what a redial is, but correct-dial is basically the 2nd most important thing in a watch's value (other than movement obviously)..
 
Davidt
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Apples and oranges. The first watch is a Seamaster 'pre' Deville and the second is a 70's quartz. Very different.

The pictures are poor for assessing the dial but it has been repainted as it should have an applied logo and the crown is also incorrect. It's not worth half the asking imo. You can get a really nice, original one for that price.
 
nkhandekar
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Have a look at the Seamaster De Ville thread, it has great examples of watches you can use as a standard reference for comparison. As has been pointed out already, your watch should have an applied logo on the dial and the dial has been refinished. These are lovely watches to wear, and I used one as my daily beater for over a decade (1989-2001) so I am speaking from experience. As a guess, it might be a ref: 166.020 but as it is a front-loader you will need the help of a watchmaker to get the reference no. which is on the case, behind the movement.

Enjoy your watch and if the refinished dial bothers you, you can track down a replacement.
 
Wat-1
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Is your date wheel faulty/ stuck. Looks way too early to start turning at 25min past 9.
 
Clemmens
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Wat-1 Wat-1
Is your date wheel faulty/ stuck. Looks way too early to start turning at 25min past 9.
Good observation. Date wheel works good though. Date only starts moving just before 12pm. In this case it was my own fault.
 
Clemmens
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nkhandekar nkhandekar
Have a look at the Seamaster De Ville thread, it has great examples of watches you can use as a standard reference for comparison. As has been pointed out already, your watch should have an applied logo on the dial and the dial has been refinished. These are lovely watches to wear, and I used one as my daily beater for over a decade (1989-2001) so I am speaking from experience. As a guess, it might be a ref: 166.020 but as it is a front-loader you will need the help of a watchmaker to get the reference no. which is on the case, behind the movement.

Enjoy your watch and if the refinished dial bothers you, you can track down a replacement.
Thanks a lot for your time to observe my watch and your analysis. What would the watch be worth in your opinion in the current state?
 
Clemmens
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Davidt Davidt
Apples and oranges. The first watch is a Seamaster 'pre' Deville and the second is a 70's quartz. Very different.

The pictures are poor for assessing the dial but it has been repainted as it should have an applied logo and the crown is also incorrect. It's not worth half the asking imo. You can get a really nice, original one for that price.
Thank you for your analysis.
 
Clemmens
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ErichKeane ErichKeane
1: Replacement, well-cared for, or poly-watched. Any of those are possible.

2.1/2.2: There isn't a great view of the dial in that picture, but the printing on that dial looks really awful. The little I can see strikes me pretty solidly as a redial. The 44 minute marker is kinda messed up it looks too? Not something Omega would let out of the factory.

3: Looks like an omega crown, no idea if it is the right one.

4: Not good enough of a view,so I'll take your estimate.

5:
Without a reference number, determining value is really difficult. That said, redials typically mean "this is a parts watch" (as far as value), so $800 sounds REALLY REALLY high. Depending on the movement, I'd guess $300 or so would be about top-end (unless it has a particularly common/rare movement). You might get a little more out of someone who doesn't know what a redial is, but correct-dial is basically the 2nd most important thing in a watch's value (other than movement obviously)..
Thanks a lot for your view on this.

.1 Because the dial has scratches and the Omega-logo is still very visible, best bet would be replaced.
.2 Good observation. My best bet (also because of the scratches on the dial) is that the dot '.' came off and got stuck to the 44 minute marker. My camera does not allow for this detail, but that's how it looks.
.3 This omega crown is too big and too untouched for this watch.
.4 Thanks 😀
.5 Redial or refinished dial are two different things. Based of my observations I would argue for a refinished dial.

For your information this is a hand-wound manual watch, which makes it more valuable.

Based of everything I read from you guys I do think 800 euro is too high.

In my opinion 300 euro is really low though, considering it runs perfectly, has Omega glass, has Omega crown, is manual and with the assumption of a refinished dial. My best bet would be around the 630 euro mark.
 
ErichKeane
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.5 Redial or refinished dial are two different things. Based of my observations I would argue for a refinished dial.

There really isn't a difference between the two. Anything beyond a 'cleaning' modifies the dial to the point that destroys the value. The fact that the center looks re-printed or hand-painted is enough to ruin its value the same as if you'd put a mickey-mouse dial on it.

For your information this is a hand-wound manual watch, which makes it more valuable.

Not really? In fact, the bumper automatics are particularly well appreciated more than the manuals.

My best bet would be around the 630 euro mark.

I think you're significantly over-valuing it.
 
Clemmens
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ErichKeane ErichKeane
There really isn't a difference between the two. Anything beyond a 'cleaning' modifies the dial to the point that destroys the value. The fact that the center looks re-printed or hand-painted is enough to ruin its value the same as if you'd put a mickey-mouse dial on it.



Not really? In fact, the bumper automatics are particularly well appreciated more than the manuals.



I think you're significantly over-valuing it.
I don't agree with your points here.

I do appreciate your analysis though, but on these points we have to agree do disagree.
 
SOG53
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Clemmens Clemmens
My best bet would be around the 630 euro mark
Let us know when you sell it for that. Listing it of course as redialed watch.
 
TexOmega
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If a seller posted these pictures in the original post, I wouldn't even read the listing. They are meant to deceive.

And, having an opinion is not the same as having a fact when it comes to a description of your watch.
 
CalgaryJim
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Clemmens Clemmens
What do you guys think? Am I right, or am I wrong?
IMG_20250627_154905.webp IMG_20250627_154916_1.webp IMG_20250627_154956.webp IMG_20250627_154941.webp IMG_20250627_155010.webp IMG_20250627_155018.webp


Recently I bought this gold capped Omega Seamaster 1960-1970.

Upon further inspection I have some concerns I'd like to raise:
1) The glass is in perfect condition and has the Omega logo in the middle. The dial has scratches that resonate with it's age.

My thought: Glass is newer but original Omega serviceglass. The watch has had it's service.

2.1) The Omega logo looks too wide.

My thought: Since the dial has many scratches and signs of age. My best bet is that it's a repainted dial.

2.2) Also the omega logo looks printed on the dial and not applied on.

My thought: According to different fora, this could be true although a damaged and repainted dial seems more plausible to me (unless you guys have a good reference that has the same).

3) The crown is not original to this watch.

My thought: I do believe it's original Omega though.

4) The watch strap is an original Hirsch strap with a fake Omega buckle

My thought: Fake buckle. No references inside.

5) Worth in this condition with these specs (runs perfectly): around 800 euro's
The fact that those photos of the dial are at an angle instead of directly overhead tells me it's a problem watch.
 
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