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  1. Superpacker Apr 5, 2013

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    First post here. From what I have been reading, the key to buying in this category is information. Can someone point me to the best way to learn about vintage Omega Seamaster, preferable late 50's-60's? I am really interested in a sleek and clean formal watch, few bells and whistles, and this is the area that seems to have the watches that catch my attention. However, I don't know where to go to start learn to tell what to look for so as to avoid frankenwatches, redials, etc. Thanks.
     
  2. Privateday7 quotes Miss Universe Apr 5, 2013

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    This is good start: http://omegaforums.net/threads/condition-condition-condition-and-other-pieces-of-advice.1716/

    I always find desmond blog the ultimate source if you are interested in Constellation line: http://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.com/. Go to the right side down - there are tons of resources that you can mine for knowledge

    As for redials, franken etc, the best is following this forum, and consult by upload your prospective watch picture here. Mods and experts will gladly help you determine whether it is legit.

    Happy hunting.
     
  3. Superpacker Apr 5, 2013

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    Thanks for the initial help. I appreciate it. I neglected to mention for specifics that I am looking for a Seamaster Deville. Can anyone tell me how much I would be a proper amount for an heirloom quality condition Seamaster Deville, nothing fancy, say stainless steel? I am just looking for simple, preferable crosshairs.
     
  4. MyVintageOmega Apr 5, 2013

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    Outside of topic.......welcome to the forum.
     
  5. hoipolloi Vintage Omega Connoisseur Apr 5, 2013

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    A Seamaster De Ville with a caliber 565 (recommended) in a sharp SS Case, front loader with seamonster on back, original dial and hands (top condition) costs you from $600 to 800.
    Sometimes it's quite hard to tell the original from redials (the ones with crosshair are 90% redials, I guess)
     
  6. Superpacker Apr 5, 2013

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    Thanks for the welcomes, and the advice. This just shows how much I need to learn (SS Case)? I wonder why crosshairs are so faked? Is there a line of acceptability for non orginal parts? I feel like I know (and understand) the consensus on redials, however, I have see some where all but a few parts are original, e.g. crown and glass. Should I expect all original or nothing?
     
  7. cicindela Steve @ ΩF Staff Member Apr 5, 2013

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    Crystal and crowns are not considered critical by most and if a watch is for sale that lacks these, it can usually be corrected for modest cost. If possible you want to get the same crown design, by the original manufacturer (such as a decagonal crown for a Constellation). Sometimes these are new, sometimes new old stock sold second hand, like on eBay.
    Getting the same crystal is also preferable, as a new one may have the same diameter but not the same shape. If the correct shape and size replacement is not available at all, an aftermarket will generally do. Each watch may have its own set of characters that collectors consider acceptable or not for alteration depending on what is available. .
     
  8. Sherbie Apr 6, 2013

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    Welcome

    SS = stainless steel, you might often see RG= rolled gold, or GC = gold cap. Solid gold cases were nearly always 9 ct or k in Europe, 14 ct in north america, and 18 ct almost everywhere

    as you are finding out, the condition of the case vs how it left the factory in Switzerland, is critical - to real collectors anyway.

    cheers, Paul