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  1. dialstatic Jan 12, 2017

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    Well rats. The 1116/148 bracelet I had sought for so long, came undone earlier this evening. No damage to the 145.024 'Jedi' fortunately, and I think the bracelet is easily reparable, as well...

    ...were it not for the fact I lost one of the thin center link rings. I spent a fun evening on the floor, but can't find it anywhere. It's so frustrating knowing that it's gotta be in the house somewhere.

    Anyway, I tried looking online for a replacement, but 1116 bracelets aren't that common and separate links are even more rare, it seems. I tried to find one of the little buggers at Ofrei and considered placing a WTB ad over here, but I don't even know what they're called...can anyone help me in that regard?

    The evening wasn't a total waste though: I did learn that on this bracelet, Omega used tiny spring bars (in stead of split pens or screws) to secure the removable links. I imagine that's the reason it came apart. Never saw a bracelet that had that method before!

    9BD76276-78DE-4736-8CC6-3B17BBA4900E.jpg
     
  2. bama2141 Jan 12, 2017

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    Lost a tiny part like this once -- used the vacuum cleaner throughout the house and fortunately was able to find the missing part by sifting through the dust bag.

    Good luck!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  3. Andy K Dreaming about winning an OFfie one day. Jan 12, 2017

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    Have you tried magnets? Like this one:
    04A7CFFA-3EC9-4752-885E-0FA18CB829FF-5792-0000052E386F8322_tmp.png
    :D
     
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  4. ajg1960 Jan 12, 2017

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    Vacuum cleaner idea does work. It has saved me more than once to find tiny screws, etc. start with a new bag. It sucks ( pun intended) :)
     
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  5. oddboy Zero to Grail+2998 In Six Months Jan 12, 2017

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    Worst case, looks like something that could be fabricated, until you find what you need.
     
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  6. cicindela Steve @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 12, 2017

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    Have you considered one of the new belt systems??
    [​IMG]
     
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  7. pascs Jan 12, 2017

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    I believe I have a few spare 1116 links if you are not able to get things sorted out.
     
  8. dialstatic Jan 13, 2017

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    Hah! That vacuum cleaner plus new bag idea paid off. Found the little bugger! Thanks all, and especially @bama2141 for the suggestion, @pascs for offering a replacement and @Andy K for making me laugh out loud....obviously I should've tried that first ;)

    The 1116 is complete again, although I have a little less faith in it now...:cautious: Do you guys use any type of adhesive on the end of those friction pins, or do you just trust the Force?

    IMG_1330.JPG
     
  9. bama2141 Jan 13, 2017

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    Excellent! Glad you found it!
     
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  10. DON Jan 13, 2017

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    I wouldn't trust it now. Those are press fit and if it came apart. Then it's no longer secure. Especially since one pin fell out of both end pieces

    I would pull it apart and try a heavy duty epoxy resin. Llttle in the holes and then press the pins in

    Tolerance too tight to solder and welding might discolor the links.

    Never used Loctite, but Red thread locker is the strongest or Loctite superglue ultra gel control

    Anything thats good at bonding steel to steel

    DON
     
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  11. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jan 14, 2017

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    You can rough up the end of the pin again to recreate the friction it had originally with the small splines. In a pinch I'll use this technique for pressed pins. If you have a pair of pliers with jaws that have rougher teeth, than can work - squeezing the end of the pin slightly to raise metal with the pattern in the jaws.

    If you are going the adhesive route, a thread locker is not what to use here - retaining compound would be the appropriate choice as it's made for bonding sliding and interference fits rather than threads.

    Cheers, Al
     
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  12. StrutlessWonder Jan 14, 2017

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    JB-Weld regular two-part epoxy is your friend (not the quick acting version).
    It dries grey, almost a stainless steel color.

    Mix equal parts from the two tubes together with a toothpick or uncoiled paper clip on a piece of scrap cardboard. Smear a small dab inside one side of each hole from the direction you are pressing in the pin. Then press in the pin, wipe off excess. You could even dab a bit in the holes after the pin is in place. May use a cloth or paper towel damp with rubbing alcohol to wipe off any smear of epoxy film before it dries.
     
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  13. StrutlessWonder Jan 14, 2017

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    Al's suggestion of roughing up the serrations at each end of the pin with the serrated jaws of a pair of pliers (so it's a better friction fit) is also a great idea.
    If this makes it tight enough you have to tap of press the pin back in, then no bonding adhesive is needed.
     
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