It seems that the Big and Chunky watch trend of the Panerai has passed, and thinness is becoming the new black in the watch (fashion) world?

Like the skirt length, which shortens and lengthens, does watch size grows and shrink?

 

I certainly hope so.

 

This will be the new and at the same time the never ending trend.

Simply nice movements

 

At one time, back in the Golden Age of Wristwatches (post WWII up to the quartz debacle), thin was the ultimate expression of watchmaking prowess.

 

panerai just released new luminors that are thinner and at 42mm...i am not going back to the dark side

 

I was thinking the same thing. Apple is obsessed with making their products thinner. Apple Watch 2 is supposed to be thinner than the first generation..

 

I had the PAM104, it was 44mm but thick! I eventually traded that and now have recently picked up at PAM512, 42mm and 11.5 mm thick. I'm in love. You know that feeling when you open the box and it's even nicer in person!
IMO, thinner watches sit better on the wrist and fit better under a cuff. (sorry about the reflection)

 

Making extremely thin watches was the impetus behind Edmond Jaeger and Jacques-David Lecoultre's original partnership, so the old has become new again. You can see the Reader's Digest version of the story here.

 

Master Calendar is my next purchase! (will take me a few years)

 

If Hodinkee is writing about it, then a trend it must be...
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ultra-thin-what-it-is-why-it-matters-and-who-does-it-best-part-i
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ultra-thin-what-it-is-why-it-matters-and-who-does-it-best-part-2

 

I agree that dress watches should be thin and small enough to slide easily under the cuff. I always thought the big and chunky trend was fine for divers and other sport models. After all, it made complicated dials easier to read, small buttons easier to push, etc. But to me they just look silly with a suit and tie. My Baume & Mercier dress watch with a Peseux 7001-based hand wound movement is 7 mm thick, the movement itself only 2.5 mm.

 

That 512 is stunning. It is on my list but will probably never happen.

 

Lovely B&M, I really hope that brand picks itself up again they make some lovely looking watches.

 

thin for the win

 

...Which caused the WR to drop to 30M. Capable engineers? I think not.

 

I guess it depends on your perspective. Some people here love to crap on Panerai every chance they get, and I understand that the vintage people here in particular might not be fans due to the sizes involved (please spare me the compensating jokes...they were old in 2001). The brand certainly has it's faults, but that's true for any brand.

But the reality is often quite different than the perception. You mention the 104 being very thick, well I just measured mine - it's 15.5mm thick, and 44 mm case. Let's look at some modern Omega offerings for comparison...

DSOTM - 44.25 mm and 17.25 mm thick. Mind you it's a chronograph, but the 104 also has a chronograph movement in it with some chronograph parts removed, but movement thickness stays the same.

8500 PO - 42 mm and 15.7 mm thick.

8500 PO - 45 mm and 16.5 mm thick.

So yes it's not an ultra-thin watch, but it was never meant to be, and it's quite a bit thinner than many current Omegas, and I'm sure other brands too. Your 512 is very nice. I will probably never own another Panerai, in particular one with an in house movement, but the style is certainly there.

Cheers, Al

 

I agree, most modern dive watches are quite large. I loved my 104 but didn't have the wrist size to support it (my personal preference) but loved the look, simplicity and the story behind the brand. this is why I purchased the 512, and it wears better on me and I'm happy o have a Panerai back in the rotation.
I now have a 300M co-axial, and it is 15mm vs the 16mm of the 104. I should have perhaps said it was all around large for my wrist and wasn't getting as much wrist time as I would have wanted due to that.
Happy Friday OF


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Hmmmmm, as the head crapper-onner, I can't remember a time I gave any guff to the brand or it's fans...... except maybe to say not to mess with Panerai owners because they might be a little tougher than Audemars Piguet and Patek Philipe owners.

However, if the PAM contingent would like, I can add them to the list of brands who get shat upon:

Invicta
Renato
TW Steel
Steinhart
Jonny Sonbul
Aximum
Bell & Ross
Hublot

Actually, since Hublot started making in-house calibers I've considered dropping them from the list. The only thing holding me back is I'd never get to use my Beavis & Butthead picture with the quote "Uh huhhuhuh...huhuh...... He said You Blow!"