Is AP a one-trick pony?

Annapolis · Apr 18, 2023

Kind of a clickbaity thread title, sorry.

A venerable and historic manufacture, but I feel like all I see from them (in terms of how they’re perceived and where their brand focus is) are Royal Oaks in various configurations. Definitely some haute horlogerie happening there, but it’s all framed by the same tired case from the 70s. I don’t think I’ve ever seen an 11:59 in the wild, and it doesn’t seem like a collection that’s gained much traction.

People used to make noise about VC losing their way, and maybe finding it with the Overseas—but they’ve also been producing some killer dress watches all along. And Patek has always had a pretty robust range of strong designs.

I imagine I’m missing something here, and wonder what others think.

SC1 · Apr 18, 2023

For me, VC only interests me with the Overseas line otherwise not interested nor interesting any longer.

Aroxx · Apr 18, 2023

They make other watches? I don't think I've ever been on their website before today, but I have to say I dig the Code 11.59. I also like the Royal Oak. That pony pulls like an ox.

Annapolis · Apr 18, 2023

Don’t get me wrong, if Kevin Hart handed me his platinum skeletonized RO, I wouldn’t be like “get that thing away from me.” But it excites me less as a general design than some of the other Gentas (chiefly the Aquanaut and the Ingenieur). And it feels like a brand that’s lost its capacity for innovation. Like a studio that only does sequels now.

I hear you re: VC, though I’d stand by their traditionelle dress watches (having owned one—a very fine thing indeed).

Maybe what I’m really doing is expressing respect for Patek as the only full spectrum brand among the big 3.

JwRosenthal · Apr 18, 2023

Annapolis
Kind of a clickbaity thread title, sorry.

A venerable and historic manufacture, but I feel like all I see from them (in terms of how they’re perceived and where their brand focus is) are Royal Oaks in various configurations.

I imagine I’m missing something here, and wonder what others think.

Ummm

SC1 · Apr 18, 2023

Annapolis
Don’t get me wrong, if Kevin Hart handed me his platinum skeletonized RO, I wouldn’t be like “get that thing away from me.” But it excites me less as a general design than some of the other Gentas (chiefly the Aquanaut and the Ingenieur). And it feels like a brand that’s lost its capacity for innovation. Like a studio that only does sequels now.

I hear you re: VC, though I’d stand by their traditionelle dress watches (having owned one—a very fine thing indeed).

Maybe what I’m really doing is expressing respect for Patek as the only full spectrum brand among the big 3.

Big 3 to me...

Timex
Rolex
Tampex

JwRosenthal
Ummm

Your wait-list just got longer bro... The Lord Rawlexx doesn't like his image being taken in vain.

Annapolis · Apr 18, 2023

But in all fairness to Rolex, the Subs and GMTs are joined by Daytonas and OPs and Explorers and Skydwellers and Datejusts and Day-Dates and Cellinis/1908s and Milgauses… They’re pretty conservative but then they do whacky sh!t like the puzzle. Not quite the same thing, even if the point is taken.

Evitzee · Apr 18, 2023

AP has been 'The Royal Oak Company' for a couple of decades now, management was fretting about that when I last visited them in 2001, but that's where they drove the company. They have been hugely successful using the Royal Oak design in an almost infinite array of styles and sizes and complications so that approach has worked for them. They skated a long time using a pretty basic, and so-so finished, modular chronograph in their RO Offshore line but have upped their game now. I've had multiple RO's over the years but never really bonded with any of them.

I only have three APs now, two perpetual calendars and an ultra thin automatic which represent the real spirit of AP, imo. They make very good watches and have the best after sales service that I've used, very proactive.

texasmade · Apr 18, 2023

I still have my APRO 15400. I love the watch but it never gets worn anymore due to all the hype around AP. I wish I could get a 15202/16202 but I know I’ll never get one from an AP boutique/AD. There’s not a lot in the current RO, ROO, or Code that really excites me at this point though.

JwRosenthal · Apr 19, 2023

Annapolis
But in all fairness to Rolex, the Subs and GMTs are joined by Daytonas and OPs and Explorers and Skydwellers and Datejusts and Day-Dates and Cellinis/1908s and Milgauses… They’re pretty conservative but then they do whacky sh!t like the puzzle. Not quite the same thing, even if the point is taken.

All still variations on the same oyster case. Even their new 1908, which is a refreshing change for them, seems to be yet another oyster. What I have praised Omega for over the years is that they aren’t adverse to design change. Some have been failures, but that’s what happens when you aren’t adverse to risk.
The Royal Oak is a classic (although not my taste) on the same level as the Speedmaster for iconic. But when I think AP, Royal Oak is all I think of. With Omega about 1/2 dozen completely different models come to mind.

Watch my Whisky · Apr 19, 2023

Yes.

And they’re damn good at it.

Tony C. · Apr 19, 2023

There was a time...

Annapolis · Apr 19, 2023

JwRosenthal
All still variations on the same oyster case. Even their new 1908, which is a refreshing change for them, seems to be yet another oyster. What I have praised Omega for over the years is that they aren’t adverse to design change. Some have been failures, but that’s what happens when you aren’t adverse to risk.
The Royal Oak is a classic (although not my taste) on the same level as the Speedmaster for iconic. But when I think AP, Royal Oak is all I think of. With Omega about 1/2 dozen completely different models come to mind.

Very true. I’m probably giving Rolex too much credit—and it’s not a brand I’d usually defend. But vis-a-vis AP, at least Rolex has found enough variability within that case architecture to produce watches that most laypeople wouldn’t recognize as using the same case. Show most non-watch people a Sub, a Day-Date and a Daytona, and I doubt it would occur to any of them that watches had that fundamental link. With AP, whether it’s the offshore or some one-of-one piece made for a Sultan, it’s pretty obvious what it is.

Can’t fault a brand for doing what’s obviously working for them! It’s just interesting to me that they’ve gotten away with it and still command the respect they do.

Tony C. · Apr 19, 2023

Annapolis
Can’t fault a brand for doing what’s obviously working for them!

Oh yes we can! 😁

eugeneandresson · Apr 19, 2023

there are some absolutely stunning 11:59's...

NGO1 · Apr 19, 2023

The Royal Oak line is attractive and distinctive. Naturally, it's their bread and butter. I like the ROO line, but none likes me. Their 43mm ROO wears like 48mm. Reminds me of my 5yo daughter wearing her Mom's highheels. Even the CODEs are substantial. AP has a huge presence in Asia, and no one in my circle can wear one. The only one that agreed to my wrist is the RO jumbo. Still, 39 wears like 42mm.

Only the Royal Oak line is fully developed for all wrist sizes. It seems AP isn't yet committed to develop ROO and CODE further. I mean, if they have to force a CODE or ROO on new customers to be on the list for an RO...

Aroxx · Apr 19, 2023

This post actually got me looking through the Code 11.59 collection last night. I never paid much attention to AP because they only sell Royal Oaks and it's way out of my league. But some of the 11.59's are absolutely kick ass. If I had big money I would definitely be considering these. Sure, maybe not as full of a catalog as Patek but the 11.59 line has a lot of range. I really like almost all of them. This thread needs more pictures anyway.

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