Input requested on restoration for vintage Speedmaster and Seamaster ID

[rstel01]

Hi,

Very impressed by the knowledge on this site!!! I've worn the Speedmaster in the photos below for about 30 years now and really want a full restoration on it. It was my fathers and he bought it, as I understand in the mid/late 60's (if anyone can ID exactly what model it is, it would be appreciated!). I assume it is a "pre-moon" as the case back does not have the "moon" embossing on it. The band is incorrect as the original leather one was worn through years ago. Would also like to add the correct metal one. I love the watch, always have, it has served me flawlessly for decades and it is time for a full, proper and professional restoration. After he passed in the 90's, I replaced my personal "Bond Type" Seamaster I bought in Dubai when I was stationed in the Middle East during the 1980's and subsequently gave it my son, as it was my "war watch" just before he went in the military. I took it to the Omega Store in NYC last year for info on a restoration and, just wasn't comfortable with what I was told. Being it would have to be treated as a "Haz-Mat" due to the Tritium (I assume) in the bezel even though it is long dead for "glow".
Second if it is not too much to ask, any info on the Gold Seamaster Automatic? That was also my fathers and I recall he purchased that in the early 70's. I don't wear it, far too "Leisure Suit" for my tastes and doesn't look like any Seamaster I've ever known.

 

[S.H.]

Some remarks about your speedy:
- it needs a good service indeed, the hour counter is creeping
- you would need to have it opened to look at its reference number. As it is, I think some parts have been changed over the years. Maybe a premoon 145.022-69 with another bezel and chrono hand? But dial, chrono hand and bezel can't be all from a single ref AFAIK.
- type of bracelet and eventually external parts needed will depend of the reference, so first thing to do is clearly identify it. Then we can help you determine what is original and what is not.

 

[Ascalon]

That is a lovely Speedmaster, and what heritage!

I bought a birth year Mark II, just because the lume had gone a similar uniform 'moon soil' colour. I call it ' Old Grey'.

I'd be an advocate of the preserve and prolong approach. Do the absolute minimum to it to keep it as an everyday watch.

I wear my Mark II doing the washing up and spannering on motorbikes. They were tool watches meant to be worn. You've obviously lived that philosophy, so why change it now.

Well wear.

 

[rstel01]

S.H.

Some remarks about your speedy:
- it needs a good service indeed, the hour counter is creeping
- you would need to have it opened to look at its reference number. As it is, I think some parts have been changed over the years. Maybe a premoon 145.022-69 with another bezel and chrono hand? But dial, chrono hand and bezel can't be all from a single ref AFAIK.
- type of bracelet and eventually external parts needed will depend of the reference, so first thing to do is clearly identify it. Then we can help you determine what is original and what is not.

Thank you! Any value in this picture of the inside of the case back, I assume the 145.022-69 is correct then (not sure why it also says 67 edit sorry, just realized it is ST not 67 stamped next to it)? That is about as far as I want to open it.. Lol, lots of graffiti inside from every watch maker that

has ever serviced it

Edited: Mar 17, 2021

 

[rstel01]

Ascalon

That is a lovely Speedmaster, and what heritage!

I bought a birth year Mark II, just because the lume had gone a similar uniform 'moon soil' colour. I call it ' Old Grey'.

I'd be an advocate of the preserve and prolong approach. Do the absolute minimum to it to keep it as an everyday watch.

I wear my Mark II doing the washing up and spannering on motorbikes. They were tool watches meant to be worn. You've obviously lived that philosophy, so why change it now.

Well wear.

Lol, you know how many times its been on my wrist when I've lowsided, or otherwise had an issue on one of my bikes!!!

 

[S.H.]

Yes, it bears the ref number I spoke about: 145.022-69.

So the chrono hand is for an older ref (a valuable part) and the bezel may have been replaced with a slightly younger one.

I'd advise to leave the bezel as it is, find a correct chrono hand (not too hard for a good watchmaker), and have it serviced.

 

[jeppehh]

S.H.

the bezel may have been replaced with a slightly younger one

We would need to know the serial to know if the B2 bezel could be corret. Do you have that @rstel01

 

[rstel01]

jeppehh

We would need to know the serial to know if the B2 bezel could be corret. Do you have that @rstel01

When I unscrewed the case back, that other cover over the mechansim doesn't seem to want to come right off, so I'm a little paranoid to "force it". It had 28389 scratched in the case back (along with all the other graffiti) so maybe that is part of it?

 

[S.H.]

jeppehh

We would need to know the serial to know if the B2 bezel could be corret. Do you have that @rstel01

Pre moon back = Don bezel, no?

 

[Dan S]

S.H.

Pre moon back = Don bezel, no?

Not necessarily. It depends on the serial. Bezel could be original if the serial is after 30,59x,xxx or so.

If the OP runs a forum search, he will probably find a large number of threads with recommendations for independent watchmakers. I don't know what he wants in terms of restoration, but a movement service is probably the minimum, and maybe the only thing I would do. Other than that, there is no standard "full, proper, and professional restoration". The work performed will be at the owner's discretion, especially any cosmetic work. So he will need to give that some thought and make a decision about the pros and cons of functionality vs originality. Again, there are many threads discussing this topic ad nauseum.

He should also be prepared to ship it to a good watchmaker or watch repair shop, since we don't typically get many good recommendations for vintage Speedmaster repair/service in the NYC area.

Edited: Mar 17, 2021

 

[jeppehh]

S.H.

Pre moon back = Don bezel, no?

As far as I know it could be DON, 220 or DNN depending on the production date.

 

[S.H.]

Indeed, I was wrong.

 

[Foo2rama]

S.H.

Pre moon back = Don bezel, no?

No