Hello, first thread on the Zenith forum. After looking for some time for a good bumper I finally settled for an 133.8, which by the way is also my first Zenith(!). I ended up getting greedy and got two, at least I hope so. The reason I say this is that I gambled on the second one being an 133.8, since there were no movement shots and it was only described as a "well-running gold filled automatic Zenith". After a few hours of scouring the forums and sales posts, I based this on two assumptions: 1. The case, dimensions, and dial combination was typical of bumper models. 2. The only Zenith automatics using "Fab. Suisse." on the dial were those predating the Martel-based calibers, hence either 133.8 or 71. The watch is incoming, and these are the seller's pics. What do you think? Would this pay off, or has my amateurish detective work led me to do a horrible mistake and I'll have to pay the newbie tax?
Hi there, unable to answer the question as I know nothing about those, but I really like its patina and the way it looks, despite the “fab suisse” lettering having come off a bit. So for me the questions are: - do you like it? - are you happy with the price you paid and can you afford it if you made a mistake (probably yes otherwise you would have not taken the chance)? Gold plated watches are usually not considered so collectable due to the fragility of the material so the one good reason for acquiring a watch like this is that you like it and want to wear it— which is the only point of owning watches anyhow, if you ask me. Note that if you got it on Ebay you might be able to return it if it was represented as “gold filled”— which was a higher grade plating with a minimum thickness required by law in the US, and which is done on the whole body of the watch including the back. “Gold filled” should also be inscribed on it. Your watch is not gold filled, it is gold plated. The critical pieces of info should be engraved inside the case back— indicating in microns the thickness of the gold layer. 10 microns is nothing, 40 is getting respectable, 80 is quite solid and considered good quality but it is rarely seen.
I certainly love the look of the watch, and would definitely wear it! (I can't get myself to buy NOS because of that). I personally don't mind goldplated watches if the plating isn't worn off, and rolled gold is quite more durable than simple plating from what I know. However I also got this hoping for a bumper, and I would be quite disappointed if it ended up being, say, a 2522PC. Though the final answer will only come when I open the case back myself, I'd love to know what OF thinks of the watch(any red flags? the dial?) and if my line of reasoning was sound, especially my theory on the Fab Suisse markings.
So the seller wrote that the words "rolled gold plate" were inscribed on the side of the watch. Also, since I'm getting this from France, would it not be likelier that it actually is a French market watch(hence the Fab Suisse.) Oh and my other 133/8 is a Huguenin 80 microns- looks just like gold capped if you ask me
I would say there’s a high probability that it’s one of those movements. Hidden crown is the tell. Great catch. IMO the Fab Susie’s is most likely for the French market but not necessarily https://omegaforums.net/threads/another-remarkable-spillmann-the-hidden-crown-case.81244/
Thanks, that's great to hear. I never knew these hidden crown designs were something exclusive and not some trend of the day.
The hidden crowns were widely used. However, it is almost certainly a bumper, and not full-rotor. It would not be a cal. 71, though, as those featured a date function.
Back from servicing: the crystal was so badly scratched it's irregular even after buffing, and the hands couldn't be polished because of the plating and the lume flaking off. Serial number dates it to 1958. Runs like a charm for a sexagenarian. Much bigger than I thought however, at 36mm and the long lugs.
Thanks, I am very happy with it! Quite lucky that my first Zenith turned out so well... may well end up taking that road too... (Repeat again: no purchases till EOTY....)
This is a super late entry and a thread revival, but since I too have been searching for this information of who the case maker K.B. is: Fabrique de Boites Bielna SA of Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, which is also under the name of Kessi Frères S.A.