does someone have a identification workbook or guide for redials? it would be great i somebody could teach me how to identify them (besides the MOY-test). it would be also great if you guys could post pictures of redials in this thread on which u have marked the suspicious spots so that all other forum members can learn from it and the knowledge gets moved on so that the new guys are ready to pay it forward when they become ready to do so
Dials have to be evaluated on a case-by-case basis. There was no single font for script like Constellation and even the thickness of the lines can change from reference to reference, so there are no shortcuts to cheat experience. Even looking at the SWISS MADE isn't a hard & fast rule. Most times, it was very low on the dial and the words were close together - but not always!
It'd be a massive and endless book due to the variety, more than anything you need to spend a few years saving images of dials you know are good as a basis for comparison and looking closely to see whats off on the ones that are wrong
You could scan through the 'worst redials' thread for some glaring examples along with some good tips and tricks on telling signs. As the two respected mods above point out though, it takes a lot of experience. It's also invaluable to have some reference books like AJJT and Moonwatch Only. http://omegaforums.net/threads/worst-redials.2304/
You need to start looking through old threads here. I'd suggest the WRUW thread and after you look through hundreds of watches you'll start to get the hang of it. The more you look at the better you'll get!
ye... but the problem is that if the question is raised the answers are "yes", "pretty sure" "its a redial" "dial is refurbished"... but hardly ever somebody says why or marks the suspicious spots in paint and uploads the picture
Look at your other thread where you ask about the constellation...You need to put the work and research in if you want to get a sense of dials, look at enough good dials and you'll understand.
I've seen redials done with factory fonts - but they were the wrong fonts for that generation / era. For example, a late 50's Seamaster 14.70x with a caliber 591 should have a coathanger shaped S, but the redials always have the wide S of the post-1962 Seamasters. Seen it with other brands too - most notably the late 50's Longines Conquests using fonts from the early 60's second generation run. That's just one twist in a market where the more money is involved, the more shenanigans will be played.
This is the thing though, there are no suspicious spots in the paint, the entire thing has been repainted but not using the original dies so there are going to be differences everywhere, some subtle, some obvious. The fonts just happen to be one of the easiest as they're the most complex element of most dials.
true or false: 1) The MOY Test is reliable in general 2) Swiss Made is on every Omega dial from the 50ties//60ties? (If its missing on a seamaster // conny its definately a redial) 3) If there is a T Swiss Made T on the dial the hands need to have somekind of glowing substance. If they dont either the dial or the hands are wrong. 4) The Crosshair in Crosshair dials needs to be always "one full line" If it Stops on the top edge of the "Omega Symbol and Text" and starts again below it its a redial.
look, there is no guide book. you have to learn yourself or ask every time. no fast track like in the internet world..... you need time to develop your own experience. kind regards. achim
That's exactly it, and more than anything you need to start with with a specific reference. Pick a reference you like, begin to familiarise yourself with the available dials for that reference and learn to spot the redials by comparing known perfect examples to lesser examples known to be bad. Even the guys that are perfect at spotting correct 50s Constellations can easily have trouble with something like a later model Seamaster or Geneve if they're not familiar with it. Limit the amount of variables and start from there.
It's like the infamous words of Supreme Court JUSTICE POTTER STEWART and defining the undefinable, ruling on hard-core pornography and saying "But I know it when I see it" . Lots of study and time, no short-cuts.
+1 One has to realize that Omega was one of the largest watch companies in the world (still are). They used many outside suppliers to manufacture dials and crowns. While patterns were usually pretty consistent, there are legitimate variations. Sometimes many variations. When it comes to vintage Omegas, the only rule is that there are no rules. gatorcpa
No shortcuts - literally to become good at it takes a lifetime of study. Many of the veteran collectors here have examined dials - photos or in person - of tens of thousands of vintage omegas some probably over 100,000 and that's still not enough!
You need practice. Start searching ebay for vintage watches. You will soon begin encountering gems like this "stunning" $1700 futurematic (on the left): These are the basic ones. The more you do it, the better you will become at spotting the less obvious signs.
