By request, I'm documenting how I separated a Speedmaster insert from its bezel. I was just trying to swap some genuine parts from two similar Speedy's--one with a nice insert but rather dented bezel--the other with a nice bezel, but a scratched insert! I also took the opportunity to use Polywatch on the hesalite (easier to access the sides with the bezel removed), and rotated the bezels to shift edging-dents to less noticed areas. This example uses Speedmaster Reduced parts--the process almost certainly should be the same for the larger Speedmaster Professional models, but the sizes will vary from what I've listed below.

Please note: I'm really not recommending that anyone try this method. That said, if you're determined to attempt the process below, go slow, and be careful--measure twice and cut once. Please be aware that I take no responsibility if something goes horribly wrong (don't send lawyers after me, thanks!)--I had no problems after trying this 3 times, but you'll be taking the life of your Speedy into your own hands


STEP 1.
Make sure you've got all of the necessary parts gathered. At minimum, you're going to need: a case press with a set of dies/attachments (with mm increments), a watch hammer, and a semi-rigid cushion (I used one from an Omega watch box). If you have a bracelet on your watch, separate or remove using the tool most applicable.

This same case press is available on Amazon and eBay for about $15--if you have a Harbor Freight nearby, you can get a similar press with dies for just under $12 (using their constant 20%-off coupons).

STEP 2.
Follow the speedmaster101 video tutorial to separate the bezel from the case. This is NOT my video.

If you don't have a poker chip handy, the nylon dies that come with the cheapo case presses will suffice. Proper positioning is key--neither of my Speedy's required much force to dislodge their bezels. I checked, and this process caused no cosmetic damage to my bezels.


STEP 3.
With the bezel removed, we now need to figure out which top and bottom dies to use. Place the bezel face down and find the largest size that will just barely fit through the bezel opening--but will NOT fit through the insert opening. In other words, if the bezel is lifted up, the attachment should not fall through.

In this instance, 33mm was the best fit. Attach the adapter to the lower-screw of the case press with the 33mm-end facing up.


STEP 4.
Now we determine which attachment to use on the upper-screw. Sort through the dies to find one that is slightly larger than the outer-edge of the bezel. Do this by seating the bezel face-down. It's difficult to tell, but the adapter opening has about a 45-degree downward slant--it must only grip the bezel edge and NOT the insert. You should be able to freely shift the bezel in the adapter at different angles.

For my Speedy Reduced bezel, 42mm was the right size. Screw the adapter in such that the 42mm-end faces downward.

STEP 5.
Now seat the bezel facing up.

Even though the dies are nylon, I would highly, highly recommend putting a thin sheet of plastic (or even saran wrap) between the dies and whatever they come in contact with. In this step, the top attachment will only touch the bezel's edge, but once separated the insert edge will come in contact with the attachment.

Press down, make sure the top attachment is perfectly centered (my press is a bit off and I was forced to manually correct each time), and use a wee bit of force. You'll hear a snap and the bezel will fall down. Apply only marginal increases of pressure until you achieve separation--too much force and you could warp the edges of the insert after separation. Both bezels took about a firm handshake worth of pressure to separate.

Here you can see what the bottom of the insert and the inside of the bezel look like. Using a loupe, I could see no glue inside.


STEP 6.
Seat the insert back into the bezel however you like. I personally feel that it looks better to have the bezel bumps and bruises aligned at the 6 o'clock position. You should be able to put the insert back in by hand--one of mine was loose enough that it would fall out at this point, but after reattaching to the case using the press, it was in good and tight. If the fit is too tight to snap in by hand (as was the case with one bezel/insert), not to worry--the case press will take care of that.

STEP 7.
Search through the dies to find an attachment to support the watch caseback. I think flat would be best, but my kit didn't come with one (I've seen identical presses come with different sets of dies). Make sure it's not so large that it comes into contact with your pushers/crown! Attach to the bottom screw.

STEP 8.
Now we need one of the dies that will touch the face of the insert, and not just the bezel edge. In my case, 36mm was just right. Attach to the upper screw with the 36mm-end facing down.


STEP 9.
Be extra careful here. Align the bezel marks to the dial, check to make sure the bezel and top attachment line up, put plastic sheets between the watch and nylon dies, and make double certain you're coming in contact with the bezel and NOT the crystal. Now press!

You should detect an audible snap. If you had trouble fitting the bezel and insert together by hand, you might experience two different snaps (once to fit the insert into the bezel, another to fit the whole bezel to the case). For both of my watches, they required a bit more effort to complete this step when compared to step 5 (bezel/insert separation).

That's it! The process honestly isn't very difficult, but I imagine that individual timepieces will require varying degrees of effort to reach the same goal. I'm happy to receive any comments/suggestions for improving the process. Thanks for reading.

My main reference for this project:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/changing-speedy-bezel-without-case-press.32849/

 

Interesting write up. Although it does look simple, I'd rather leave this to a trusted watchmaker.

 

True, some things (make that all things!) are best left to the professionals--but I'm not sure how many watchmakers would attempt this. I checked locally, and was only given the option of having a complete bezel/insert swapped in. I'd imagine you mainly risk (if you're careful) damaging the bezel/insert, but if you're prepared to get a brand new replacement anyhow, it might be worth a try? Even if you don't have extra parts to swap in, you at least have the option of shifting those bezel dings in a less-obvious area (made a difference in my mind).

I certainly wouldn't recommend the process to someone who's impatient. I'm not sure what the risk is to the case snap-groove if you replace the bezel many times. I was already prepared to buy at least one new bezel--now I can avoid having to get a second bezel. It was just a fun little project, and I was very satisfied with the result.