How to salvage Seamaster 166.091? Matter of movements?

After learning much on this forum, I am despondent abt reviving my mid-70s Seamaster 200 (166.091). I had hoped that the rusted parts could be replaced, but the advice I have been getting is that there's too much damage to its Cal 1002 movement and the parts are hard to obtain now. Nevertheless, it was my first serious watch, and it would be satisfying to wear a working version again.

Not finding many SM200s on the market, my broader question is whether or not 1) Cal 1002s are compatible with the 1000-1001-1002 range of movements (and possibly later versions) and 2) compatible across different models such as the DeVille, which I gather also used a Cal 1002 movement and seems to come up more often for sale.

What else does one need to know about replacing whole movements? And where might I look for it?

Thanks!

It seems like there's one for sale on Chrono24 at the moment that might be what you're looking for? https://www.chrono24.com/omega/move...ovement-cal-1002-working--id21795073.htm#gref

Heres the parts list link to Jules Borel and some parts are compatible. See what parts you need, click on it and it will tell you what other movements use the same parts

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=OME_1002

DON

Is it a good watchmaker and do you know him/ or her well? There are many watchmakers who do not have a clientele of enthusiasts and make up all sorts of excuses to refuse work they don’t want. They see a problem and they say it cannot be fixed because they don’t want to try.

A colleague of mine went to a watchmaker with a Vostok watch whose winder had a problem, and the watchmaker without opening anything told him this was a type of watch which could not be fixed. Sensing BS I gave him other contacts and as far as I know the Vostok is still being worn.

As a starting point, if you look here, you'll see that there is a family of calibres:
http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Omega_1001

This is just a start as you would need to go over each one to check each part. Certainly, Omega claimed that although the higher number movements look similar, they are completely redesigned so you can't mix all those parts with the earlier calibres. You'll need a watchmaker really to advise but, if you made a spreadsheet of each part comparing one movement to the next then we should be able to advise.

I'm not working today so don't have access to my parts lists but as I remember: the 1001 and 1002 are the same except the 1001 was originally rated as a chronometer; the 1000 has a slightly lower jewel count but these are in the auto system; all three should be interchangeable as a complete movement. You need to check this, though.

Good luck, Chris

Had to get back to my day job, but thanks for the input while I was away.

Sorry to disappoint @Davidt @Archer and @Syrte but the watch is partially disassembled while I figure out what to do with it -- and the condition of the movement is too embarrassingly rusted to post photos. (To say nothing of the rest of the wear inflicted on it in my youth.)

Thanks @DON and @ChrisN for technical info; I fully concur with you @Dan S and the others that a watchmaker should advise. However, the OSC here in Jakarta is not interested/helpful (so far), I have not been able to find anyone willing to do Omega work (the market is very Rolex focused), and I don't have enough technical knowledge or repair experience (yet) to dive in. So while the Chrono24 option is probably the right call (thanks @Olhenry56 ), doing that now would be a leap for me without further guidance from the experts.

I would be grateful for any other pointers and encouragement. Besides the gold stem of the deVille 1002 (my SM200 is stainless steel), what other aspects need to be verified as compatible? For example, how to verify that the heights are the same?

Further thanks to all!

A friend of mine had a water damaged Seamaster and was quoted £450 from an independent repairer. I told him that I felt I could get the parts and get my watchmaker to sort it and we could probably knock a hundred off that. We did. But what a palaver. A crown for £30 here...a stem for £8 there. It all mounted up and took ages. I ended up wishing I'd said nothing. If you can get a complete donor movement then great but I struggled to get one.

If it's that bad. Thank it for it's service, stick it in a drawer and forget about it.

Watches like this turn into money pits until they end up costing more than a complete watch. Bear in mind that if you buy a movement. Still need to get it serviced. The better condition of the movement. The higher the cost.

C24 is $264 + $106 s/h + watch makers service fee on top of that

With the service. Your well over $500

Salute it and bury it

Just my opinion

DON

It's worth being cautious here. These calibers are not the easiest to work on and have some quirks - just fitting the hands will require a movement holder that is adjusted to support this calibre. You really do need a watchmaker.

You can get parts lists for all three calibers and put the parts in a spreadsheet to see if they are the same. If they are, then the movement is the same but, further words of caution. Here is an extract of the parts list (actually, the pictures at the front of the document).



All of these start with the number "1000" as will the vast majority of the parts for all three calibers as the 1000 is the base caliber. But, as an example of other possible issues, if you see the hour wheel here (top left second in), it has three options: 1231; 1232; 1233. These are all different heights and suit different cases/dials. If you buy a spares movement, it may come with the wrong height hour wheel and the seller certainly won't know.

I think @DON is probably right about putting it away unless you can get Omega to take it on.

Good luck, Chris