Canon for me.

Sergiomaclean.smugmug.com

I use a 1dx most of the time, it is not the best image in the Canon body lineup but im very clumsy when concentrated so i need the sturdy tank. I may get the new 5D next. Its a downgrade on speed and weather resistance and some other details but it has an amazing sensor and image quality and is a little lighter.

I love the top tier Nikon bodies also but i have too much investment on Canon lenses to even test a transition.

I used to shoot with Nikon on film, but Canon had a better lineup at the start of the digital era.

 

If its a true Macro and you get as close as you can aperture settings alone wont fix the limited focal range. And the stronger the Macro and closer you are the worse it will get. The option is to stack the pictures. Similar to an HDR or Pano but youre stitching several shots with different focus. There is software available to help you with the process. It is widely used on medical and nature super Macro photography ( like an insects eyes or flowers) a good option is Helicon software which is compatible with photoshop and Lightroom. It is also widely used for commercial use (product photography) which is what you're aiming to achieve.

The other option is to make sure there is a lot of even light and take the shot from a little distance with a small aperture and then crop it to the desired close up range. By taking the shot from a little distance the focal range is increased dramatically and you can easily get everything in focus... not quite the same intimate effect but it can do the trick. Use a gray or black background and minimize reflective surfaces around the watch as any glare or reflection will be equally enhanced as you crop / electronically zoom.

Use the lowest ISO possible with your light. Higher ISO on Macros and specially on cropped images for detail will render noise when you zoom in.

So use a lot of light, more than its comfortable to your eyes, and let the camera adjust rather than having the camera push the exposure up.

Good luck and post your pictures!!

Equipment:

Tripod
Good lighting
Remote cable trigger or shoot on a 2 second delay.
Black or gray background
Macro lens
Circular polarizer so you can minimize crystal and case reflection

METHOD

Set the camera on aperture mode. The focus on manual, the light metering on the most encompasing your camera will have. The furthest away from spot metering because on spot metering it will recalibrate as you change focus.

Set the watch on desired place
Look for ideal angle and set tripod
Set aperture at the best possible opening for your light. Probably ideal somewhere between 7.5 and 11.
Practice with your desired aperture the different focus points. Note that the wider the aperture ( lower number) the more focus points you will need. Also the harsher the focus range ( and banding)
Once you have an idea of how many shots you need focus on closest point and shoot with the 2 second delay or trigger ( so you avoid the movement created by pressing on the camera and attain sharper shots)
Focus on next point and shoot.
Continue until all range is complete. Make sure neither aperture nor iso nor light settings are changed between shots, just the focus point. Also do not change camera angle between shots or the images wont stack. Just gently refocus manually. Note that you should STOP the watch functions so the second and minute hands stay on place.

Then on post production organize the shots together and load them into Helicon focus or your choice or software and select the focal sharpness desired.

Lastly post the picture here.

 

Hi
talking about nikkor, 60mm 2.8G it's the way to go. It's better than 60 D.
i also own 105 2.8G and i prefer 60.
link for the 60G is here http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/specialpurpose/micro/af-s_micro60mmf_28g/index.htm
if you want something cheapper then look for 55mm micro. but keep in mind that it's 1:2 and not 1:1 macro.

ohhh, don't forget that you will need flash

 

Nikon 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro Nikkor Lens

 

I wish I get my film from Ohio

 

Long list of Lenses lol been shooting Nikon since 1992 lol. I even have Lenses that wont work with todays DSLRs haha. Photography was my first job at age 14 so I am not that old.

Im just getting tired of Nikons Customer Service. Ergonomics, I feel Canon has the edge too. all around, cheap Lenses in General and I have seen lenses made in Japan... I have a 3k Nikon lens and its made in Thailand and another in China... Maybe its just midlife crisis. I dont know.

 

by the way before I start buying Canon Lenses, anyone can hook me up? anyone have a hookup on them? I usually buy from BH Photo. Been buying there since the 90s so I get a good deal but just wondering if maybe I dont know a new place to buy.

 

Pentax K-5IIS here, with more lenses than a sane person needs. Have an older Pentax knocking around here somewhere as well. Unfortunately whenever I pull out the camera bag my 3 year old son springs into action and tries to take the camera. So in the ultimate irony, the camera I bought mainly to get pictures of him is rarely used to take pictures of him... One day when he settles down a bit I hope to start using it again regularly, versus the dang smartphone camera or the wife's point-and-shoot.

 

With the value of the US dollar versus the Cdn dollar, I would look to the Canadian on-line retailers (ie Camera Canada). Immediate 30 percent discount.

 

I had a Nikon and a couple of Canons....I have one Cannon 600D now....

 

A couple of things to add...if the shutter speed is too slow, the movement of the mirror moving out of the way will make a difference, so, find out if your camera has mirror lockup and use it. This will remove all vibrations and you will get a better picture. Another aid I use is to tether the camera to your computer. This will allow you to view your shot on a larger screen and compose/alter your settings much more accurately (zoom into an area and adjust your focus spots more accurately etc)

 

And one other thing...dynamic range varies with each camera depending on the iso setting. Use the chart at the following site, find your camera model on the right and select. The dynamic range versus iso setting will appear on the chart for your camera. Use this to help you select your iso

 

Sorry I forgot the site ...here it is

http://photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm

 

The problem is the warranty...

 

Canon 550D since they were introduced plus several lenses, can't fault it.
Just need to start getting involved in real photography again as I have slipped in to mostly using the iPhone.

 

Leicas (M3, MP & iiif - all film) & fuji X-Pro2 for me : note for the uninitiated these are mirrorless/rangefinder cameras
use the old 50's visoflex I & bellows setup with 50mm cron or 135mm Elmar lenses for my macro work & the bonus is that the digital fuji is compatible with the visoflex - my avatar was taken with this setup & X-pro2

 

Nikon for me - D90 body (105,000+ shutter count and still going strong) with the 18-55 kit lens. I'm on my second kit lens now - wore out the first one. Also use a Nikon 60 mm 2.8 macro lens, bunch of extension tubes, and for fun a 55-300 mm zoom.

 

Canon 7D MkII. Lenses available - stronger for Canon. I agree about the dynamic range, though. RAW shooting is pretty much a must when shooting Canon.

 

Just took a massive jump from a 10yr old lowest-end Canon 1000d to a full frame 6D. While the improvement in picture quality is apparent, I dare to say the 10x price difference is not justified. When it comes to watch photography, it's 90% to do with lighting.
Top picture was made with the old 1000d, the bottom one with the new 6d; same 50mm f1.8 prime lens + extension ring, home made tent.

 

The higher end the camera the easier it is to take a bad picture. Most features that you pay on a top line body are geared towards specific professuonal use. The 1dx is a monster suited for war zones and extreme conditions. Its durable and fast, reliable and easy to use.... but the inage quality is not higher tha a 5D whichbis cheaper and has wifi and more megapixels but its slower and better suited for commercial and studio use... or a 7D which is better than both for video.

So when you upgrade you should do so knowing your needs and capabikities amd style.

Pay less attention to megapixel count since, unless you are shooting for bollboards you dont need 30 mp resolution... and MP count is not as inportant as the sensor quality.

and of course there is the lense factor, which is where the money should go.

If you like street shots and natural portraits get a Leica or a fuji that you can fit in a pocket

If you like studio photography get a mid to high level body with tethering and or wifi, multiple light systems and a couple of great lenses

If, like me, you drop the camera at least two times per shoot mostly outdoors, and youre too lazy amd impacient to cover the camera in rain because you want the shot now.... and you like to take fast multiple shots and exposures.... then a 1D maybbe worth it.

All of them will take almost identical shots under controlled conditions like the ones above woth same light and lens... the main difference would be on sensor quality and size....

Nice shots by the way. Specially the PO