So as I've been reading and posting I have noticed that almost everyone seems to focus on the some of the same general principles when assessing timepieces. However I have also noticed differences in how important specific aspects of each piece are to everyone. I was thinking it would be interesting to see how everyone prioritizes characteristics of a potential purchase.

And yes, I know.... condition condition condition is always the most important. But I'm am talking specifics i.e. Lugs, crown, hands, lume, bezel and so on.


If you think this is dumb say so, I won't be offended. Just thought it would be interesting to see differences in opinions.

Additionally I thought it would be a great way for newbies, like myself, to learn about specifics from the pros.

 

All things being equal, the dial usually carries the most importance.

 

For me, which means speedmasters, dial first. Then the hands need to match. Then lugs/case. I love nice lugs. Then bezel. Then .... What was the question?

 

$ is the dial. The right dial can take a watches value from $50k to $250k.

 

Speaking for myself it's the overall condition of the piece. If vintage the movement is key to me along with overall condition. These days I am not as focused as I once was. I buy watches that appeal to me. The high end haute horlogerie stuff no longer attracts me as it has in the past. I'm just as happy with a mid range watch vs haute horlogerie brands.
I purchase classic watches that appeal to me Here are two recent purchases Seamaster and a 30t2rg I keep it simple if I like the watch and the price is fair I purchase the watch. With vintage watches for me a big part of it is the hunt. Finding the right watch then getting the watch in the best possible shape.
Both of these watches came to me needing a service, new crowns, and crystals minor stuff. Nowadays I purchase watchees to wear. Sometimes it can be a challange hunting the parts since I'm retired so chasing parts keeps me busy tinkering with the those chores.

 

Another vote for the dial as the primary drive for assessing a possible purchase. Caseback medallion is the next thing, followed by the overall crispness of the case (lugs, bezel, etc.), then comes the caliber, followed by an original crown.

 

For me,the overall looks is important. But within the overall look, some things speak to me more
- the dial, as many have mentioned, esp since I like dress watches
- the hands for me, as I am biased towards blued hands
The case makes a difference to some extent. Caseback, not at all.

 

It took a while to work out that parts for vintage watches don't grow on trees.

Even longer to work out projects have a lower percentage completion rate than my imagination percentage rate for completing projects is/was.


Having a non date dress watch of different brands theme lately
Two stage hunt nowdays
1 Find the watch / brand I want next
2 Find the best example even if it costs a bit more.

Or

Fu(k that's a nice watch in great condition I'm on it
( this has led to a few purchases I would not usually buy and some great pieces in my collection)

 

The Pros have you covered @Jwit As an amateur geek i'll just add a couple of nerdy stuff that always fascinates me[emoji3]
High Tech Stealth Low Radar flying , METAS , Shock & Gravity busters , Hi Beat , Dead Beat , SD , DIAPAL , Oil filled divers, Aviation /Tegimented/ Damasko Steel, Si 14 Springs or anything that defies logic & conventional thinking[emoji1]

Ok .Ok i admit my 1st Omega purchase had nothing to do with the above just the word Michael Phelps & " O-Mega-n " [emoji85] I plead not guilty of being a victim of Omega's marketing ploy...just filing a plea of temporary insanity [emoji14]

 

Dial first, then case, but it really depends on how the watch looks overall. I wouldn't buy a scratched up dress watch or gold watch but a beat up tool watch would be a potential winner for me

 

To me, if I really want to keep the watch, I look into or ask seller where the watch is from and also why he is selling it. IMO these two points tells a lot about the watch..

 

If the watch is visibly all correct, for me the most important factor is the dial. If the condition doesn't suit, quickly moving on. I have very little tolerance for dial issues with rare exceptions for pleasing (to me) patina.

Then comes the movement - I can't believe not one person one has yet mentioned movements!! I have chanced the movement now and then, even without photos, provided it is not a caliber with parts that are impossible to find.

On overall condition I have wider tolerance with military-issued watches, as for me, service use (often hard) is part of the allure.

 

I won't buy a watch that I won't wear (tend to be center seconds). The dial and hands are next. After that, if I can afford it, it's mine.

 

I always start by judging the case. If polished, I stop looking and moves on.

If it's a Rolex, and seemingly only polished once, I can continue the examination. If I see a Rolex that appears never polished, my heart always start to rush, as when I saw @CajunTiger 's GMT the other day. It beats me why he keeps coming to the market with that one!

 

First the watch has to be interesting to me. After I am sure I'm dealing with a trusted seller....Overall condition comes first. Dial has to be fairly clean or attractively patinated. Next job is ensuring that all is correct. I'm forgiving of some light scratches and engraving on case back. I hate overpolished cases but in the case of a gold watch I want the case to still look finely made and cared for. A vintage watch should reflect some living but I won't wear a watch that looks like s..t.

 

First thing I check out is the seller. There is nothing like being able to return a watch if it is unfairly described. I will be looking for a fair return policy, and payment via Paypal. I will only wire a seller if his reputation is solid and verifiable. Seller with no reputation is fine, if there is a clear line to recovering your funds in case of any serious issues.

Next I will read the listing description. The more vague it is, the more I will be looking for something that indicates an ability to return. Vague descriptions + "ask questions before you buy", no description + "returns only if not as described" indicates to me a very high risk of a dispute down the road.

If it passes the above, only then do I look at the watch. @Spacefruit said it best - it has to appeal to you. This is a subjective measure that crosses multiple aspects. I do know what I generally don't like:
- mossy lume on dark dialed watches (Speedies, SM300s)
- dial stains or yellowing lume on white dialed watches
- lume on hands fallen off
- cases that have gone through multiple polish jobs, or loss of a distinctive case polish detail (such as a Speedy Mk2 with no sunburst finish)
- poor timekeeping on a chrono

 

^^^ this is perfect.

I'm a watch restoring legend (in my own mind).

 

Generally I am more of a gatherer than a hunter as I like paying my mortgage and eating. My first step is does it take my breath away, and I mean that literally, like Darlingboy's Zenith Defy I bought. If yes, then I move on to looking at condition, authenticity, appropriateness etc etc.

I was pretty naive for my first Omegas (those I bought before joining this fine forum) and there are things about them that I wish weren't so, but not enough to make me think about selling them. I have two nephews and a niece who may someday appreciate them.

 

For me and as many here, the dial and its matching hands first and foremost. The movement must be of high quality with some sophistication, that means it needs a column wheel and or some kind of complication. The case will round things out.

Cheers,