While searching for a few old ads to be included in this thread, I stumbled across an ad describing a collaboration between Hermès and Universal Genève that I thought was worth documenting in this forum:

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The "Marqui" and "Regent" models are interesting three-hand dials I've not seen before from UG...



This relationship has been discussed before here and here with some nice examples such as this:



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...and this:

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Another very nice Hermes UG on insta

 

I thought the comment "attributable to Hermes by its numbering" was interesting. Which number?

It's certainly of the right period and with the right style for a Hermes UG. I've also seen other Hermes UG with that buckle but can we really make an irrefutable connection to Hermes?

 

I assume the 3784

 

Perhaps (although I think there's another digit before that).

I'd assumed that was a reference number but you're probably right and the serial and ref are on the inside of the case.

Whether that makes an irrefutable connection with Hermes I would still question unless he has some additional information from Hermes.

 

I'm with you on that. Curious to see what the refence and serial are anyway. Movement number seems to be 188.xxx and combined with the 264 movement that indicates something like this: https://uhrforum.de/threads/universal-geneve-art-deco-18k.368315/. But that one has numbers on the outside of the CB. On the other end: it UG made these for Hermes the location of the numbers could be wherever Hermes wanted them

 

Really no clue what the Hermes connection is but whatever: https://www.chrono24.nl/universalge...0s-handwinde-21-x-36mm-unisex--id21182642.htm

The intruiging thing about these 240 movements is that they seem to be made in 1 batch and used - in small numbers - during a long period.
Serial is blurred but the 4 digit (7477) reference suggests a serial around 723k. Next batch is around 826k. Furthermore some found around 1.004k. All movement serials of 116/117k. Rare stuff.

 

What does it say in Sala book about UG and Hermes ? Advertising for a UG Hermes that is just a time only ?

 

https://italianwatchspotter.com/universal-geneve-per-hermes/

 

Author: Federico Chiesa

Surely that's a coincidence

 

Interesting 224106 (if only for the movement ): https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en...i-compax-lot-347-31?page=1&q=universal+geneve Zero back up on the Hermes connection of course.

 

Another one. Interesting is the numbered movement but no (UG) numbered case. https://absolutvintage.com/en/boutique/universal-geneve-for-hermes-cadenas-model/

 

Interesting one at Insta

 

Nice Hermes spillino 22492 at Christies: https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/...hermes-ref-22492-steel-chronograph-160/145990 (page opens weird at my laptop btw).

 

Questionable(?) Hermes: http://coolstuffinterestingstuffnew...h-by-hermes/2b6dee769e36f21989a8fd6de1ed5121/

 

i have questions

 

Looks to be the exact same watch as on the Hodinkee article linked in the first post. Care to substantiate?
To me, the text on the hour counter subdial is too bold and I have never seen a Compax with lume plots (either no lume or hands and numbers).

 

I have several questions more basic than the potential issues you are describing, however before even getting into any of that, we would need to see a high res photo/scan of this advertisement, compared side by side with the watch in question. If this is indeed supposed to be the same watch as in the advert, even at a cursory glance there are obvious discrepancies.

 

In the Dink article there is a close up that shows a little more details on the advert. Some questions....

1) the hour font is different, and the hour font interaction with the sub dials is different
2) it looks like the UG and Hermes text is different. If Im not mistaken Hermes is down below, and not rounded, perhaps Compax is up above, but it's hard to read?
3) the lume position is interior to the hour markers, not at the minute track
4) it does not look like round 3s are used
5) it looks like it says fab suisse or something like that at the bottom, not swiss

I am not especially familiar with Hermes/UG watches, I have not researched them at all, I do not know if these types of differences are to be expected or not, and I am not making any definite statements as to the authenticity of any particular watch, I am merely raising questions.

 

Another one. Sold long ago by Carsandwatches: http://web.archive.org/web/20150219033240/http://www.carsandwatches.com/universal-geneve/