I have mounted several ordinary hands before . But never had put subhands on a speedy . Have mounted subhands before . Anyone got some tips on how to do it . It's hard to get them perfect and i am scared to push them on . Have a nice 861 movement holder with holder under the jewels and a hand press . Maybe the hand press is not a $1000 thing but it helps a lot . It's new hands

 

Post photos of the tools you have please.

 

This is the movement holder and the hands press . Maybe not the best hand press but . And the dial without hands . The crown was something laying around that fitted the new stem . Instead of using the new crown .


Sorry for the smeg near the hour wheel .

 

I was hoping to see the holder with the movement removed, so I can see the supports for the jewels. But in any case, you want to make sure those supports are at the right height, so they should be adjusted so they just touch the jewels.

Are these new or old hands? For old hands, you should be able to sit them on their posts loosely, and then line them up to press them on - new hands might not be so easy, and may require that you hold them with tweezers as you press the hands on.

First make sure that the tip of the runner for your hand press is clean, flat, and not marked up. If it is not in good shape it will make pressing the hand on straight more difficult. Make sure you use the fine tip that is solid for pressing these hands on.

I always install the hour recorder first - not sure why it's just the way I have always done it. For the hour recorder, with the chronograph stopped or reset it does not matter, you can simply press the reset pusher, and that hand will reset. There is no need to start/stop for this one. Make sure it is reset, place the hand on the post, and with the hand pointing at you (that is how to orient the movement under the press) carefully press the hand down while watching the alignment while wearing a loupe - 4X is plenty for this. Make sure you don't inadvertently turn the runner in your hand press as you press down, as it will turn the hand and cause misalignment.

I would suggest only placing this hand on loosely to start with, so not pressing it on all the way. Then with the watch fully wound and the hand reset, start the chronograph, let it run for 10 seconds, then stop it (don't reset), and cover the movement. Walk away for a while - even have some lunch - then come back and see if the hand has moved. If it has, you have hour recorder creep, and you need to remove the hand, dial, and adjust this to correct it - might be beyond your skill level if you are asking about pressing hands on, so you might need to visit a watchmaker. I actually do this test before I put the dial on...

For the minute recorder hand, you need to start, stop, and reset the chronograph, as the minute recorder or seconds recorder will not reset unless it has gone through the whole sequence of start/stop/reset. The central seconds recorder will also need this same sequence for resetting.

Same technique as the hour recorder, but this hand tends to be tighter. Pressing it on part way and checking the alignment will help.

For the seconds recorder, nothing special is needed in terms of technique. Just place the hand on and press it down.

Now if any of these are off, remove the hand and start again. I don't recommend pressing and twisting the runner of the hand press to align the hands. Make sure that all 3 hands have been pressed down to the same level off the dial, and that none of them are touching the dial - they will be close, in particular if they are used hands.

Once you have all 3 sub-dial hands on, then install the hour hand and run it around the dial to make sure it clears all the sub-dial hands. Then the minute hand, and then the central chrono seconds hand. You want the hands spaced evenly as you look at the stack from the side - this is called division. I always let the chronograph run for a bit, make sure the counters are working, and go through the start/stop/reset sequence at least 10 times before casing the movement. You want to make sure the hands stay aligned.

Good luck!

Cheers, Al

 

This is the holder without the movement . From the underside u can adjust the height of the supports . It's new hands .That is why they are so hard to fix to the pivots . Even mark the bags to take the right hands for he right pivot .

 

The hand press was no good. Will try to fix the alignment and precision of the shaft before using it. You get what u pay for. And do a nice little presstool in the lathe.

 

merken - remember

 

You have to find your hands first Erich


I haven't seen any vintage ones around but I'm keeping my eyes open.

 

It is fiddly to fit those hands especially new ones as they can be very tight. I normally stick a very thin piece of masking tape to the underside of the hand which sort of keeps it under control a bit at least until you get it pushed down a bit. I find the main chrono hand can also be hard to get the alignment just right but I think thats just my fitting technique

 

Interesting thread.
Saved for future reference - obasac

 

Yes, the cheaper presses might be fine for simple watches, but when you get to chronographs where things must be very accurate, a quality press can make a big difference...



Cheers, Al

 

I will probably get some help with the watch . When i have all the parts i will contact a watchmaker to help me . Made the decision today after reading more about the movement . I am not sure i got the right extensions for the pushers on the movement . The pusher on the reset keeps falling to pieces . There is a small little metal part that falls out when i push the button . Found a small little screw on the bench .I am not sure it comes from the movement . But to be on the safe side i will do a service

 

This is the small part constantly falling out of the movement . And the small screw ? Not sure if it belongs to the movement . @Archer . I have a theory that someone has used it to keep the operating lever in place ? .Name of the part is operating lever for hour hammer .The pusher stem hangs down a little but just so much that it locks up the mechanism and falls out . Could it be the screw that is holding the pusher stem that is worn or to short . Sorry for the bad macro pictures .

 

The screw goes in from the movement side and allows the piece that keeps falling out to slide into contact with the stem bolt for hammer. If that is not biting, you may need to re-thread its hole and make a new screw to fit in that hole.

 

Will look in to it in the morning. Thanks.

 

Check to make sure the screw is the proper one - that one seems short to me. If it is not the right one it will let the pusher stem fall out, and then the operating lever won't stay in place or engaged properly with the pusher stem. If you have to get a new screw, a quick work around you could try is to install the enlargement ring - that might keep everything in place.

Cheers, Al

 

The small screw in the picture is not the screw that holds the operating lever for the hammer . I have now idea where that screw come from ? Found it on the workbench when the lever fall out . My movement is in a nice condition and works good . But could need some service in the future anyway . Where could i find a new screw for the pusher stem ?

 

It is a 2352 screw. Cousins have them.

 

I will order that next time i get something from Cousins . Have one more question . I bought my 145.014 only as a case . Has refurbish it and now it's waiting to be assembled . Some time in the near future . Have some other project first . Because the movement didn't come for this watch in the first place . I wonder if the pusher extensions on the movement could be wrong . Have the right pushers for the case . I think these are the shortest . Where can i find which extension and pusher for hammer it should be . Their are three different length.

 

Hopefully, this photo, from my restoration thread will give you the answers you need.